wharfrat

I have some burr marks on the seat post that I'd like to try and fix if possible but, don't want to mess it up. This is on a used bike I picked up and I don't want to replace the Campy post. I'm going to pop it out and run a ball hone down the tube to take care of the burr if it's still there. Any ideas on how to buff these out if it's even possible without making it scrap? Thanks in advance..

sch

Must be a pretty good burr down there to make dents that deep. You can smooth them out a bit
but they look too deep to remove without excessive metal removal. Doubt you would weaken the
post enough to be a problem if you did get rid of the dents though unless you are a clydesdale.

froze

Those kind of burr marks are difficult to get out. The only thing you can do is to take the seat post out and go over with a steel wool pad soaked in oil, then give it a polish with a Scotchbrite pad. This won't take the marks out completly but it will lessen their appearance. If you try to remove it entirely you will weaken the post.

Next time you remove your post make sure you loosen it all the way before you attempt to remove the post; if it's still stiff try applying a little BB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or WD40 to make it slide easier. Those marks are caused by the seattube opening not being opened all the way then someone "squirmed" the post back and forth. But when you remove the seat post check the inside of the seat tube to see if there's any burrs by chance that may be marring the post, if there is a fine tooth metal file will take it off. Personally I don't think there's a burr, I think you didn't loosen it enough. Once you loosen the seat tube bolt all the way and if it still is too stiff after lubing it, you can take a flat edge screwdriver and place it into the slot on the frame behind where the bolt goes and twist it just slightly enough to open the frame a tiny bit.

wharfrat

Thanks froze. I'll try that. I was only hoping to lessen the appearance of the scratches. Actually, I didn't do it, the previous owner did. I know better! Thanks again.

froze

When you put the seat post back in make sure you coat the seat post and the inside of the seat tube with a THIN layer of grease, then just wipe off the excess that will ooze out. This will help prevent the seat post from seizing into the seat tube and make it easier to remove the next time.

Doug64

Get some 600,400, and 200 grit wet-dry sand paper. Cut it into 1" strips. Wet it with water and use it like you are shining shoes. Start with the 200 and work your way to the fine grit. Finish off with some polishing compound (on the entire seatpost) from an automotive store. Bon Ami scouring powder is pretty fine and might work. I'd try it on the bottom part of the seatpost. It won't get the real deep sctaches out, but it might look better. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow of a seat post on my Puegeot PX-10 that I'm restoring. It was about in the same condition.

psirue

that's a bad idea.

if you sand too much, the seatpost will not fit properly as metal will be removed and the engraved logo will be reduced.

rickdog81

I am bringing your post back to life because I am curious as to how your seatpost turned out? I found the same seatpost at a local flea market with the same zig zag marks along the back of the post. Undoubtedly someone tried to wiggle it out of a the frame and marked it up.

Was it possible for you to polish out the scratches without weakening the post? Or just make the scratches less visible with a good polish? What polishing technique did you use and how did it turn out?

It is a classic seatpost that I will ride with or without the marks but if there is anything I can do about the marks then I will.

Thanks

Oh thought of one more thing...Can I use an orbital buffer (the kind used to wax cars) and achieve similar results? I don't have access to a bench grinder/motor?

mtbikerinpa

I agree with the poster who said multiple grit sanding. Due to the location of the logo, it is irrelevant and will not be an issue and the material removed will not affect the clamping measurements either.

An orbital buffer can work for the cosmetic polishing, though for a seatpost it is just as easy to get a long towel and support the seat on the edge of a bench or table, wrapping the rag around the post with a long back and forth motion. Think campfire stick spin. It takes a little more arm motion but overall time consumed is barely any different than doing it with power.