Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Tour bike drive train problem

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Tour bike drive train problem

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-01-09, 06:53 PM
  #1  
Banned
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 229
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tour bike drive train problem

Bike: 1984 Trek 520, just rebuilt with my hardrocks drive train, sram x-4 derailer, mountain triple up front (but no front derailer), 8 speed chain, quill stem friction shifter, I have not transferred my cassete yet, and have been running it on a 5 speed free wheel (untill i get my next paycheck), it shifts bad/can't find the sweet spot/buzz's. Is this because the 5 speed free wheel is different then the 8 speed cassete (that was part of my hard rock)********************????

Also: I possible could afford to take a link or so out of my chain, but ill ask for LBS for their opinion on that, and I need to learn more about fine tuning my derailer!
MJH100 is offline  
Old 07-01-09, 06:54 PM
  #2  
Banned
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 229
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
https://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=10497224

thats the bike

Last edited by MJH100; 07-01-09 at 06:55 PM. Reason: more info
MJH100 is offline  
Old 07-03-09, 12:28 PM
  #3  
)) <> ((
 
illwafer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,409
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
if you can't dial in a sweet spot, then maybe you have serious chainline issues. i can't thing of a reason why you can't adjust your friction shifting to get in a sweet spot. perhaps you need to adjust your b-screw?
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

also, maybe your derailleur hanger is bent?
illwafer is offline  
Old 07-03-09, 08:24 PM
  #4  
Guest
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768

Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I doubt it will help with your problem but you should shorten your cable housing a tad.
LarDasse74 is offline  
Old 07-04-09, 07:46 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 12,100

Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1242 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 65 Posts
Did you reset the limit screws on the rear derailler when you swapped it over? They would need adjusting regardless of whether or not you were still using an 8 speed cassette.
joejack951 is offline  
Old 07-05-09, 10:09 PM
  #6  
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times in 2,365 Posts
Originally Posted by RonaldHaines100
Bike: 1984 Trek 520, just rebuilt with my hardrocks drive train, sram x-4 derailer, mountain triple up front (but no front derailer), 8 speed chain, quill stem friction shifter, I have not transferred my cassete yet, and have been running it on a 5 speed free wheel (untill i get my next paycheck), it shifts bad/can't find the sweet spot/buzz's. Is this because the 5 speed free wheel is different then the 8 speed cassete (that was part of my hard rock)********************????

Also: I possible could afford to take a link or so out of my chain, but ill ask for LBS for their opinion on that, and I need to learn more about fine tuning my derailer!
From what I can see from your picture, you have the outer chainring mounted on the bike. You have it mounted, apparently, on the outside of the crank. This pushes the chainline towards the outside of where it should be. The proper chainline is measured to the middle of the crank. For triples that is the center chainring. You need to determine the chainline you need (look here) and adjust accordingly. You'll probably need a new bottom bracket or, at the very least, you'll need to mount the chainring on the inside of the crank.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.