Getting to & Changing Bottom Bracket on Vintage Trek Road Bike (613)
#1
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Getting to & Changing Bottom Bracket on Vintage Trek Road Bike (613)
Hello,
I have an '83 Trek 613 road bike and I've been intermittently hearing a knocking sound when pedalling - and it sounds and feels like it's my bottom bracket. I had this same symptom on a Mongoose MTB and changing the BB was the fix. I would like to know what I will need to do the same job on this bike so I can have everything before taking it apart to have a gander, including a spare BB in case changing it is in order. I already have a Park Tool CCP-2 Crank Puller and a Lifu bottom bracket remover (20-spline). What other tools will I need, if any, and what are the specs (dimensions) on the Bottom Bracket? The only information I can find is that the original BB is a "Nikko".
Thanks a million for any help.
I have an '83 Trek 613 road bike and I've been intermittently hearing a knocking sound when pedalling - and it sounds and feels like it's my bottom bracket. I had this same symptom on a Mongoose MTB and changing the BB was the fix. I would like to know what I will need to do the same job on this bike so I can have everything before taking it apart to have a gander, including a spare BB in case changing it is in order. I already have a Park Tool CCP-2 Crank Puller and a Lifu bottom bracket remover (20-spline). What other tools will I need, if any, and what are the specs (dimensions) on the Bottom Bracket? The only information I can find is that the original BB is a "Nikko".
Thanks a million for any help.
#2
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Easy to measure, BB shell almost certainly 68mm wide, and BB axle length will be somewhere in
the 108mm to 112mm, depending on the crankset (if double CW) and likely 118mm if triple but a
few triples used 113mm, and a very few used 120mm so measure the overall width with a careful
measuring approach to confirm. Sealed BB UN52 or 54 is replacement of choice for quality versus
price. This assumes the original Sq taper axle still prevails.
the 108mm to 112mm, depending on the crankset (if double CW) and likely 118mm if triple but a
few triples used 113mm, and a very few used 120mm so measure the overall width with a careful
measuring approach to confirm. Sealed BB UN52 or 54 is replacement of choice for quality versus
price. This assumes the original Sq taper axle still prevails.
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Wouldn't the original BB be an old-school square taper requiring different tools (pin tool, lock ring spanner ...) ?
BB probably just needs an overhaul (clean & regrease) and proper adjustment.
BB probably just needs an overhaul (clean & regrease) and proper adjustment.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 07-22-09 at 12:53 PM.
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Here's Park Tool on the subject:
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=93
And the BicycleTutor:
https://bicycletutor.com/bottom-bracket/
I find the old square-taper style the smoothest running BB's - and the most fun to overhaul. Good luck!
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=93
And the BicycleTutor:
https://bicycletutor.com/bottom-bracket/
I find the old square-taper style the smoothest running BB's - and the most fun to overhaul. Good luck!
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+1. I'm looking to replace the FSA SLK crank on my race bike with a square taper Centaur-ish crank & BB ... none of those watt-stealing seals for me !
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