What's the difference?
#1
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What's the difference?
Between bike lube[white grease]and anti-seize? I got some new Zipp skewers and it said to use anti-seize on the ends I have always used lube? also what about for Ti bikes with an aluim. seat post?
#3
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"Lube" as in grease have pressure-enduring additives to resist high-load applications. Such as moly or zinc particles. Anti-seize have no such pressure-resisting additive. Rather, they have anti-corrosion and anti-galling compounds, which may not be the best for lubrication. Basically, they are specific products with specific applications in their design. However, there is some criss-cross in the usage possible, where anti-seize may be substituted in low-demand lubrication uses and grease may be used in basic anti-seize applications.
In your case, grease will work fine as an anti-seize, but the real stuff would be better in the long run, especially if you ride in adverse conditions like mud and rain. In other more demanding areas, like seatposts, anti-seize works a lot better than grease.
In your case, grease will work fine as an anti-seize, but the real stuff would be better in the long run, especially if you ride in adverse conditions like mud and rain. In other more demanding areas, like seatposts, anti-seize works a lot better than grease.
#4
Senior Member
I would think about installing a titanium seat post on a Ti frame. An old friend of mine had an Al seatpost seize inside his Ti frame, and they basically had to cut it out. He went to a Ti post - no problems.
It's called "galvanic corrosion". Anytime two different metals are touching and an electrolyte (like sweat) is present, the two metals corrode together. Very tough to separate.
Even anti-seize isn't perfect, and it doesn't last forever. Using the same metals is the only sure way around the problem. (steel for steel, AL for AL, Ti for Ti) - and I'd still grease the junction.
It's called "galvanic corrosion". Anytime two different metals are touching and an electrolyte (like sweat) is present, the two metals corrode together. Very tough to separate.
Even anti-seize isn't perfect, and it doesn't last forever. Using the same metals is the only sure way around the problem. (steel for steel, AL for AL, Ti for Ti) - and I'd still grease the junction.
#5
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I have three Ti frames and all three have Al seatposts. I've had the oldest frame and it's seatpost for 13 years and 70,000+ miles and it has never had the slightest problem with corrosion or siezure. I remove the seatpost about once a year, wipe it off and grease it with Phil Grease (but any brand would do) and that's it.
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I would interpret his problems with the seized seatpost as obvious neglect. If you remove, clean and regrease a seatpost (of any type in any frame) once a year or so, it should never have a problem. The same is true for quill stems in threaded forks too.
I have three Ti frames and all three have Al seatposts. I've had the oldest frame and it's seatpost for 13 years and 70,000+ miles and it has never had the slightest problem with corrosion or siezure. I remove the seatpost about once a year, wipe it off and grease it with Phil Grease (but any brand would do) and that's it.
I have three Ti frames and all three have Al seatposts. I've had the oldest frame and it's seatpost for 13 years and 70,000+ miles and it has never had the slightest problem with corrosion or siezure. I remove the seatpost about once a year, wipe it off and grease it with Phil Grease (but any brand would do) and that's it.
#7
Senior Member
Yeah, even alloy posts in steel frames will have anodic corrosion problems. Wait, we've had that combination for 80+ years!!! Some people have had no problems and others have had to destroy parts. It's the proper procedure that's most important in preventing seizing and corroded seatpsots.
#8
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Anti-seize is essentially grease with metal particles (usually aluminum or copper) added to act as a consumable anode to prevent electrolytic galling between dissimilar metals.