PeanutDance

Did some searching and I found it is not a good idea to use oil, but lots of people either recommend anti-seize or grease for things like stem bolts, seat collar bolts, etc. Is there a big difference? Seems like anti-seize is made for automotive stuff, whereas I can get bicycle specific grease from Phil Wood or Pedro's.

demoncyclist

Get a tub of waterproof bearing grease (used for boat trailers) from your local auto parts store or even a big box (wally world, kmart,etc.). Cheap, and lasts a long time. Bike specific lubricants are not necessary. Anti-seize is nice, but mostly not needed on bikes.

calamarichris

Though automotive grease is probably cheaper and just as effective for your stem bolt.

noglider 

I use grease for stems and seat posts, but you could do worse than using oil. In other words, it's not ideal, but nothing is perfect. If all you have is oil, use oil. But yeah, get to the auto parts store or a bike shop and get yourself a tube of grease before too long.

tadawdy

i think a lot of people just buy the bike-specific stuff because it is specifically endorsed for use on bike parts. when we're talking metal, though (and not cf or plastic, or whatever other odd bike material), you can accomplish the same thing much more cheaply with grease from your automotive store.

Wanderer

I've been using anti seize from the same can for 40 years. If it has threads, especially if it involves a dissimilar metal, use the right thing - anti seize.

dit

Yepper, the best thing to use is anti-seize when dealing with soft alloy. Alloy to alloy can also lock up even without snugging up the connection. I had a Corvair steering box cap lock which was alum to alum. connection. I had to break the housing to get it apart. That was a $200 lesson. Grease is better than nothing but it is best to use anti-seize.

Ed Holland

Don't pay extra for bike specific stuff. Take demoncyclist's advice (post #2) and get the waterproof bearing grease for bearings & moving parts, and some anti seize paste for fasteners.

I think there should be a saying along the lines of "Grease everything on a bike except the brakes". Even things which "dont move" do flex e.g. handlebars in the stem clamp, and can make noise. Plus, by putting grease in the microscopic gaps between components & fastener surfaces, you reduce the chance of moisture ingress leading to corrosion, seizure etc. You'll thank yourself for the tiny extra effort years later

Panthers007

For the longest lasting protection of parts you don't want to re-grease/adjust for awhile, such as bottom-brackets, pedal-bearings, and the stem - I use a Teflon-based grease. Finish Line makes a very good one. This costs some money, but it's worth the piece of mind knowing you can get the stem off again.

noglider 

Isn't the term "waterproof grease" redundant?

Grand Bois

A tube of Park or Phil grease is enough to completely rebuild at least a dozen bikes (or one bike at least a dozen times). It's convenient, neat and can't get contaminated. You can run a bead around a bearing cup instead of smearing it around with your finger.

I use anti seize on fasteners pedals, seatposts and stems.

AEO

nope.

grease on its own with water is hydrophobic, but if you add an emulsifier, they will mix.
grease can be washed out by pressurized water.
there are varying grades of greases. general purpose, marine, high pressure, bio degradable, etc.

and there's also K-Y jelly, which is a water based 'grease'. (it's not a grease in a true sense)

noglider 

So is Phil Waterproof Grease different from other bearing greases? I mean is it uniquely waterproof?

AEO

nope, it's just this translucent green stuff that looks and feels the same as what shimano uses for their grease.

but since that phil wood stuff is ridiculously expensive for what it does, I just use a tub of marine grade and also have a grease gun that has a marine grade grease tube attached to it.
stinks like mold, compared to white lithium, but it works quite well.

noglider 

I have a tube of Phil grease from a zillion years ago and also a tube of white grease from the auto parts store.

My point is that Phil's use of the term waterproof misleads customers into thinking it's a uniquely well suited producted, compared with all other available greases. I seriously doubt that.

e2py

I won't say that grease doesn't work, but if the recommendation is for anti-seize then plunk down $3.50 for a 1 oz. tube of this that will last a long, long time. Available at most of your autozone type car parts stores.

Permatex anti-seize 1 oz. tube

Panthers007

I took off a freewheel that had been on a Campy hub for 25 years. And had been run to death in that time - the freewheel that is. The Campy Record hub from 1982 was in perfect condition internally. The exterior had age-spots. LOL.

Well the freewheel came off pretty easy. And there was the Teflon-based grease I'd used way back then. Still feeling fresh and doing it's job. I think I'll pass on the anti-seize, thanks.

PeanutDance

Thanks guys. Ended up getting

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078...8880465&sr=8-1

for fasteners and a tub pedro's grease for bearing and metal contact with no threads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._ya_oh_product

Guessing both of these will last forever! Looks like I should've just bought marine grease but pedro's wasn't that much more expensive. Oh well.

neil0502

That pretty much sums it up for me. I have anti-seize, so I use anti-sieze (along with grease).

Good basic info ... worth re-posting, IMO:

General info on torque, lubrication, and fasteners:

https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=88

AND

https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=89

AND

https://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm

AND

https://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html