mharter

I have two sets of MKS pedals and both sets have developed clicking noises that simulate loose cotterless cranks. I've made sure that there is not too much slop in the bearings, but no difference.

Could it be the riveted outer tread moving against the chassis? If so, how would I fix it?

Matt

une_vitesse

does this happen on the same bike? when does the clicking occur - at the same point in the pedal revolution or randomly? loose square taper cranks don't click, they fall off.

Panthers007

The problem with them is you didn't open them up and clean them and grease them. A pedal-overhaul is needed before you put most new pedals - especially with loose bearings - on the bike and use them.

I hear this complaint all the time regards MKS pedals. And it's NOT your fault. Overhauling pedals is a dying art. One I'm trying to resurrect. Here's what you do:

Working over a bowl, and the pedals removed from the bike, gently pry off the dustcaps at the end of the axles.

Now take a Y-Wrench socket-wrench and, while holding the flat where you screw it into the crank-arm with a box-wrench or pedal-wrench, remove the locknut under the dustcap. Then remove the cone under that. The bearings will pour out - into the bowl if you remembered.

Gather all the balls - 1/8th inch - and let them soak in a solvent such as charcoal-lighter fluid. Don't smoke - yet.

Now clean the insides of the pedal, the cone, the locknut, etc. with a rag soaked in the solvent. Allow to dry/evaporate completely.

Apply good-quality grease to the races where the balls ride. And begin the slow, tedious process of placing the balls back into the races - starting on the side closest to the crank-arm. Needle-Nose Pliers, or tweezers, work well. Then insert the axle to hold the bearings in place and repeat placing the balls on the other race - furthest from the cranks.

Screw the cone down slowly to hold the bearings in place. This will take several, or more, attempts your first time out. You want them to have no play back & forth - but you don't want them tight (like they are now before you began). Then replace the lockring and torque it down firmly. As I said - this will take a few tries to get it so there is no play, or tightness. It requires finesse. The second time you overhaul a pedal is much easier. It's an art.

Now you should understand the principal and the goal. Go for it! Congratulations! You will be a true artisan of a dying art!


<EDIT> I have many pairs of MKS pedals, and know many other folks who do also. Everyone experiences symptoms like you describe. Now our MKS pedals run almost as smooth as my old Campy Records from 1982.

sonatageek

I ordered a set of the MKS platform pedals and it was very very clear that they needed to be overhauled before going on the bike. They felt tight and lacking in grease.

I guess that is part of the manufacturing process they don't bother with, which seems wrong coming from a quality company. Ah well.

JohnDThompson 

Most likely a lubrication issue, as others have noted. But if it is the cage coming loose from the pedal body, these are simply peened in place. Use a hammer to re-peen the cages if you suspect this.

mharter

Update:

re-greasing the inside bearings solved the problem. You can't just unscrew the cap and squirt lube in there like I tried at first.

Matt

Panthers007

Very good! I assume you did a full overhaul? Meaning you took off the lock-nut and the cone and dumped the 1/8th-inch ball-bearings. Cleaned the insides of the pedals and the cone you removed. Applied good grease. And put 'em back together. Adjusting the cone until there is no pressure or play. That constitutes a full pedal overhaul.

One caveat though: Make sure to torque-down strong the lock-nut. It may take a few tries to do so without encouraging the cone to get too tight. But without getting the lock-nut tight - the pedals will go out on you again.

Johnny Nemo

I have two sets of well worn MKS and not a click to be heard. They hadn't been sitting around in a shop forever, until you came along, had they?

Panthers007

Every MKS pedal that has come my way - new ones that is - have been too tight and bore very little, if any, grease. I encourage everyone who has these/are getting these - to overhaul them before putting them on the road.

I've read in these, and other, forums from people who said their MKS pedals are terrible pedals that they had/were planning to throw away. Everyone of them had no idea about overhauling pedals. Properly cared for, the MKS remain excellent pedals at a bargain price.

Johnny Nemo

That's news... I have both standard MKS and Custom Nuevo's and never had a problem with either. I don't know anyone else who's had that problem with them before, and certainly not in those numbers.

I did have to overhaul some Suntour's that I got from a shop, where they'd been sitting around and dried out.

operator

They come that way (bearing adjustment anyways, the no grease is typical of most bike components), because they know 99% of the people who ride those pedals aren't going to adjust them. So once they wear in a tiny bit they are fine.

JanMM

Not just MKS - the Nashbar/VP SPD pedals I put on my bike a few months ago came adjusted tight from the factory. OK after adjusting them - the grease looked all right.

zoltani

Thanks!

I am glad I found this thread because I have had a terrible clicking in my pedal for quite awhile. Yesterday I overhauled the pedals and today they are smooth as can be, no clicks so far!

kaliayev

dobber

I never serviced my MKS pedals (4 sets now) on arrival and I've had many happy miles of pedaling adventure.

Not saying a good greasing won't fix most issues, but it's a misnomer to say you need to do it to new ones.

davidad

After they are properly adjusted with a small amount of preload (drag), you can regrease them by removing the cap and presssing grease through the pedal until it comes out of the crank side.

pinarello15

Also have the same problem with MKS pedals. Overhauling them numerous times, but the problem persisted. Overhauled many pedals and never had such problems (cup and cone). On one of the pedals even the threads gone - trying to tighten the nut. They are cheap, thus made of the cheap materials and wide tolerances. Disassemble MKS and some old Campy and everything will be clear at the first sight. They issued Sylvain Next with bearings - I can only imagine how long they would last...I am city rider (Pinarello Montello) with about 3000 - 3500 km anually so even the cheap semi plastic pedals would have to work without issues. Would never buy any MKS product any more. For the city ride I need platform pedals, so solved the problem with Campagnolo Euclid pedals - don't need to say they are fantastic in every sense. Cofirmed: I am not rich enough to buy cheap things!

3alarmer 

...not certain what your problem is with MKS, but personally I am grateful for them as a company, and have used their pedals in various models for years without issue. I'm happy that spending the cash for Campy makes you feel special, but your review here of MKS products has little basis in reality.

It makes sense in the context of someone riding a Montello with platforms, though.

pinarello15

Messenger ride, almost. In the traffic and crowd, I need to be able of the quick reaction. Thus the platform pedals and Nitto "straight"bar. I've had the problems with two Sylvain and one MKS "BMX" pedals and a friend of mine have the same problem with MKS " BMX" pedals on the 26" single speed (if the problem is riding Montello on the platform pedals). Just to cut it shortly: You could hardly get a sandwich in Japan for 30$ (sic!)

3alarmer 

...I have no idea about the quality of their BMX pedals. I don't use them. I do use (regularly, and have put some miles on them) their quills, a pair of the Sylvan flat "touring", and something they call "urban platform", and they all perform admirably. I have many miles and years of experience with Campy quills as well.

Maybe you should spend a little more money and buy some of their better offerings ?

I'm not a "messenger" but I ride in city traffic here regularly with clips and straps. So far, I haven't died from this after 40 years of doing it. Do what you want, but someone joining a forum and dredging an old thread in order to knock a reasonably well respected manufacturer strikes me as odd.

pinarello15

I had Shimano Pd m731 on my Gary Fisher Aquila. Didn't overhauled them and used them for ten years plus misstreatment by my kids at the "worst" age from 10-15. After that, you can imagine how they looked like, but they spinned flawlesly. I bought Euclid only because I couldn't find NOS XT pedals. The thread is allways actual, cause MKS still produce and many people have issues with them . They cheat people and there are so many proofs on it. I will keep on discouraging people on buying MKS. I am not a granny rider, for sure, so maybe for such riders, they are good.

1nterceptor

I don't have too much experience with MKS; I prefer lightweight clipless(Speedplay X/2, Xpedo R force, etc.).
But I did get MKS Esprit EZY Superior a few months ago. Just attached them to my cranks and have been enjoying
the smooth roll these past months. I tried MKS Uban Stepin A EZY Superior. Again super smooth spin. But I didn't
like the clipless side, ATAC copy. Based on the 2 MKS sets I've had/used; I ordered a 3rd pair - MKS US-S EZY;
SPD copy.
MKS ESPRIT SUPERIOR PEDALS by 1nterceptor, on Flickr

3alarmer 

...OK, I think I understand why you took the trouble to join this forum now.

Hoopdriver

I have a few pair of MKS pedals that seemed tighter than I would have set them up, but after a few hundred miles they were nice and smooth. I have readjusted Shimano pedals before mounting because of my perception of tightness, but I would bet that they, too, would be fine after a few hundred miles.

Also, be careful about thinking that an overhaul of a recently installed pedal fixed the original issue. The act of removing and remounting may also have been a factor.