how hard is this to do by yourself?
ok.., i'm currently in the process of gathering parts to make this transformation. my plan is to change my sirrus to a time trial setup and upgrade the largest chainring from 48T to a 52T.
here is what I have thus far: - Syntace C2 Aero Bar - Nashbar TT Bullhorn Bar - Cane Creek TT brake lever - Shimano 8/9 Speed Bar End Shifters - Profile Cork Tape - FSA 8/9 speed 52T 110mm Chainring now i'm not sure i can use my existing brake/ deraileurs cables, so here is my current spec of the sirrus. it's the entry level sirrus. FRONT BRAKE: Forged 6061 alloy, 85mm linear pull, multi condition pad REAR BRAKE: Forged 6061 alloy, 85mm linear pull, multi condition pad BRAKE LEVERS: Shimano EF-35, EZ Fire, integrated with shift lever FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano T-301, 31.8 clamp, bottom pull REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Sora SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano EF-35, EZ Fire CASSETTE: Shimano HG-50, 8-speed, 12x25t CHAIN: Shimano HG-53 CRANKSET: Specialized five arm, polished arms CHAINRINGS: 48Sx38Sx28S, Super Shifter BOTTOM BRACKET: TH Sport, square taper, 68mm shell, 113mm spindle, sealed cartridge so, is there anything else i may be missing or may need? please advise if there are certain parts i can reuse from the original setup. also, how hard is it to tune the shifters so they will shift correctly? any pointers? i would love to learn how to do this myself, so if someone can shed some light, that would be wonderful! rui |
Have you verified that your front derailer will handle the new chainring size as well as the difference between the largest and smallest? Also, have you verifed that your rear derailer will handle the total cable wrap caused by the new chainring?
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Originally Posted by supcom
Have you verified that your front derailer will handle the new chainring size as well as the difference between the largest and smallest? Also, have you verifed that your rear derailer will handle the total cable wrap caused by the new chainring?
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I doubt that Cane Creek brake lever will have anough cable pull to handle your oinear pull brakes.
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
I doubt that Cane Creek brake lever will have anough cable pull to handle your oinear pull brakes.
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I'm thinking you'll also need a new stem. The bullhorn bar will have a road bar clamp diameter of 26.0. You current stem will have a clamp diameter of 25.4, which is what is used for flat or riser bars.
I also agree that those brake levers and brakes probably will not work well together. You may get it functional (or not) but I'm guess it will not work great. You could use a travel adjuster on the brakes if you have too, this is often done on tandems that use linear pull brakes with STI levers. |
Originally Posted by slide13
I'm thinking you'll also need a new stem. The bullhorn bar will have a road bar clamp diameter of 26.0. You current stem will have a clamp diameter of 25.4, which is what is used for flat or riser bars.
I also agree that those brake levers and brakes probably will not work well together. You may get it functional (or not) but I'm guess it will not work great. You could use a travel adjuster on the brakes if you have too, this is often done on tandems that use linear pull brakes with STI levers. |
Do you still have the stock suspension seat post? That will probably look pretty weird as well as feel weird in an aero position.
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If you, in the past on occassion have swapped cables, adjusted, replaced, installed shifters, derailleurs, headsets, B/B or done any other basic work yourself, this transformation should be a breeze.
As far as brake and shifter cable lengths......it's always a good idea to just have a complete set ready on hand if your old set is too short. Don't forget housing ferruls and cable ends. |
Originally Posted by The Fixer
If you have in the past on occassion have swapped cables, adjusted, replaced, installed shifters, derailleurs, headsets, B/B or done any other basic work yourself, this transformation should be a breeze.
As far as brake and shifter cable lengths......it's always a good idea to just have a complete set ready on hand if your old set is too short. Don't forget housing ferruls and cable ends. |
Cash is cash. I don't think a shop will dis you if you are going to pay them for their service. As for the brake cables, you will need something called a travel agent. It is a small eccentric pulley that converts the short pull from a road brake lever into the larger pull needed to move a linear brake properly.
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Originally Posted by demoncyclist
Cash is cash. I don't think a shop will dis you if you are going to pay them for their service. As for the brake cables, you will need something called a travel agent. It is a small eccentric pulley that converts the short pull from a road brake lever into the larger pull needed to move a linear brake properly.
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I did a similar brake change when I converted my flat barred Giant Excursion to a bull bar. You could do one of two things. You could go to older style cantilever brakes which will work with the road levers, or I switched to Tekro Mini-V brakes. They have a shorter arm than a standard sized linear pull brake so require less cable pull.
Road levers only pull about 11mm of cable where moutain style levers pull around 25mm. The linear pull brakes require the larger cable movement to function properly. The Mini-Vs fall somewhere in the middle. I've been able to get them to work nicely with standard road levers. |
Originally Posted by chuckfox
I did a similar brake change when I converted my flat barred Giant Excursion to a bull bar. You could do one of two things. You could go to older style cantilever brakes which will work with the road levers, or I switched to Tekro Mini-V brakes. They have a shorter arm than a standard sized linear pull brake so require less cable pull.
Road levers only pull about 11mm of cable where moutain style levers pull around 25mm. The linear pull brakes require the larger cable movement to function properly. The Mini-Vs fall somewhere in the middle. I've been able to get them to work nicely with standard road levers. |
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