Front wheel friction problem
09-15-09, 04:30 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
Front wheel friction problem
I'm very confused...I took my bike over to Harris Cyclery yesterday to have a couple things looked at, ask a bit of advice, and pick up a new shifter cable. I had experienced problems with excessive friction and related noises (squeaking and clanking) coming from the front wheel, and the guy I spoke to told me that my axle cones were overtightened. I don't have cone wrenches, so he adjusted it for me, and it was working fine for the whole rest of the day yesterday (8-9 miles' worth of riding), and then for another mile and a half or so today...but then suddenly, the friction and noise reappeared.
The wheel spins mostly freely in reverse, but then when you go spin it forward, it stops quickly.
If it matters, it's an early '70s Columbia Sports III 3-speed that I understand to be home-built to some degree, by a relative of the Craigslist seller I bought it from. The wheels look to be all original, or at least from the same time period.
The wheel spins mostly freely in reverse, but then when you go spin it forward, it stops quickly.
If it matters, it's an early '70s Columbia Sports III 3-speed that I understand to be home-built to some degree, by a relative of the Craigslist seller I bought it from. The wheels look to be all original, or at least from the same time period.
09-15-09, 04:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Posts: 12,257
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
flip the wheel around.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
09-15-09, 04:35 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
09-15-09, 04:58 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 7,239
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
I suspect there's something messed up with your bearings, cones, or axle. Would recommend taking the hub apart, replacing any worn parts - incl. all ball bearings, and regreasing it.
The only front hubs I know of that are direction specific are a few dynamo hubs.
The only front hubs I know of that are direction specific are a few dynamo hubs.
09-15-09, 05:11 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Posts: 12,257
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
some sturmey archer hubs for raleighs are like that as well.
these hubs are easy to tell by the one piece nut, instead of two on each side.
the hex nut goes on the outside of the fork, the round one is cone adjustment, there's no lock nut.
most all modern ones are like this with one nut for cone adjustment, one nut to lock the cone nut in place and another nut that goes on the outside to hold the wheel in place.
these hubs are easy to tell by the one piece nut, instead of two on each side.
the hex nut goes on the outside of the fork, the round one is cone adjustment, there's no lock nut.
most all modern ones are like this with one nut for cone adjustment, one nut to lock the cone nut in place and another nut that goes on the outside to hold the wheel in place.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
09-15-09, 05:27 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
I'll take a look at the hub and nut layout a bit later tonight, and perhaps try flipping it around to see if that helps.
09-15-09, 07:45 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
This is my hub:
09-15-09, 08:38 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Atlantic Beach, FL
Posts: 205
Bikes: Cannondale F600sl, Windsor Falkirk Carbon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It would be cheaper to replace the wheel than have the hub on that rebuilt.
09-15-09, 09:56 PM
#9
Senior Member
Another idea is to pick up a used $20 from a thrift store for parts. The wheels may be in better condition.
09-16-09, 03:54 AM
#11
Rustbelt Rider
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
New bearings are usually a nickel each, that might improve things a bit.
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
09-16-09, 04:27 AM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,541
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
18 Posts
I'm gonna try flipping it around today, and if my ride(s) haven't improved, I'll look into cleaning it or picking up a new wheel, if I can find one of the correct size for a decent price.
09-16-09, 05:56 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,329
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=31537
or buy it from Harris Cyclery for $30:
https://harriscyclery.net/product/var...pokes-2731.htm
In any case, I would take it apart and inspect it first. If the cup and cones look ok, then replace the bearings and grease it liberally. Only a couple of dollars for a bag of bearings. Even if the OP doesn't have cone wrenches or the hub doesn't have cone lock nuts, putting on the wheel and tightening it up on the fork while keeping the adjustment can be done. Do it all the time with my old 3-speed.
