threadless headset problems
 

Today I built up my Pedal Force ZX3. When it came time to preload the headset and set the stem I ran into some trouble. I'm using a FSA Orbit IS headset that I got from Pedal Force.

The problem is that I can't tighten down the top cap enough to take out all of the play without it becoming very hard (in relation to normal) to move the handlebars side to side. It seems to me that the upper cover is touching to top of the headtube and causing friction.

How do I solve this?

I'm not familiar with that headset, but is it possible that one or both of the bearing retainers is/are upside down?

It's a threadless cartridge bearing headset, so there are no bearing retainers. The bearings only fit in one way so they can't be upside down.

The only think I can think to do is put in some kind of spacer under the upper cover to prevent it from touching the top tube

Are the bearing cups mounted in the headtube (frame) squarely?

Ya I checked that.

I think that typically there is a small gap between the upper cover and the top tube (I'm not sure, maybe someone could check their bike), and that for some reason the combination of this specific headset and frame isn't working.

I just talked to a friend that told me that he had the same problem with an FSA headset and a Specialized E5 frame. He said the mechanic put a spacer under the upper cover to produce a gap between the cover and the top tube. So I guess that should work until maybe I can get a better headset such as the Cane Creek IS-8 which hopefully won't have the same problem

Yes, aren't the stem and/or spacers (whatever you have on top) always stick up a bit higher than the fork? You have to have that or the top cap will bottom out on the fork and not get tight enough. Add the thinnest spacer you can find (either under or over the stem) or replace one you have with a slightly bigger one and then perhaps you'll be able to get the preload set right.

I think you've misunderstood the problem. There is a gap between the top of the stem (I actually have a spacer on top of the stem right now) and the fork. The top cap is functioning perfectly. The problem is that the upper cover of the headset (the thing that would say FSA or Cane Creek, that goes over the bearings and under the stem/spacers) is what is causing the problem.

when i tighten down the top cap and take up the slack in the fork to pre load the bearings, the upper cover is binding against the top of the headtube. This makes the stem very hard to turn side to side.

As an experiment I tried putting a spacer under the upper cover. It seems to have solved the problem, I can preload the bearings so that there is no play in the fork and it turns easily. The only problem is there is now a 5mm gap between the upper cover and the bearing (pretty ugly). Maybe a better headset like the Cane Creek IS-8 will do better

Try a smaller spacer.

hah ya. I can't really find one right now. I guess I will have to try the hardware store tomorrow

It would be good to post some photos of this headset and situation.

I'll try to have some pics up later.

But I guess my question now is, does anyone think its a bad idea to ride with the spacer underneath the upper cover? I don't think it should be a problem...

Only if you find having the handlebars lower is more comfortable to you. Otherwise the spacer should be moved under the stem. Then pre-set the top-cap by tightening the cap down about 1/8th turn with your hex-wrench and then tighten your stem - side to side - to the manufacturer's suggested torque. Use a torque-wrench. Then your stem should have no play, and your handlebars should turn freely to the side when you lift the bike off it's front wheel and tilt it side to side. Don't torque-down the top-cap. Just tight enough so it stays put.

Most of the job is done with the stem.

Here's Park Tool on the subject:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

And BicycleTutor, of course:

http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-threadless-headset/

Ok again, I think you have also misunderstood the problem. I guess I'll have to post pictures to make this clear.

I'm NOT talking about the top cap, compression plug, bung, or whatever you want to call it. I DO know how to set the top cap and preload the bearings, I have built nearly a dozen bikes and never had this problem.

I'm talking about the UPPER COVER of the headset NOT the TOP CAP. The upper cover could also be known as the dust cover?? This is the cover that goes over the compression ring and covers the bearings. This upper cover is contacting the top of the headtube. **If my top cap was contacting the top of the headtube I would have a very serious problem because there would be no stem in between!!***

This might help too,

On that park tool link, the upper cover is referred to as the adjusting race (Cane Creek calls it an upper cover)

When I mentioned that I have a spacer under the top cap it is because I haven't decided how long I want the steer tube to be exactly since I'm waiting for my new Control Tech Unit stem to arrive and I don't want to cut the steer tube too short. So I left it a bit long and put a spacer under the top cap, this is not the spacer I'm asking about.

The spacer I'm concerned about is the one that is now under the upper cover, or adjusting race, that is preventing that upper cover from binding on the headtube.

The thing that concerns me about this is that the upper cover normally prevents you from over tightening the top cap. In that case it would bind to the headtube.

In my case, the upper cover is binding to the headtube prematurely BEFORE the bearings are properly loaded. When the bearings are properly loaded and the play is gone from the fork, the upper cover is tight against the headtube and cannot rotate freely.

Sounds much more complicated than it need be. Personally I'd look into other designs.

Photos may help.

shimmy
 

headset shims.

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...arge/21855.jpg

Again, I'm not familiar with this headset, but is it possible that the upper and lower bearing sets are different thickness and could they be switched around? Failing that, it could be that this is just a design that is not going to work with your frame.

BINGO!!!

Hopefully one of my LBS's has some in stock.


Thanks!!

Thanks for your input Panthers and Norwood.

I bought the headset from Pedal Force, and is supposed to be compatible

What is really comes down to is the small tolerances in the specs of the headtube, bearings, upper cover.... I guess something is just a bit off in my case and sometimes a bit can be a big problem.

Cheers