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-   -   New hubs laced to older rims. Is that Ok? (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/597276-new-hubs-laced-older-rims-ok.html)

Shinyhubs4 10-24-09 07:45 PM

New hubs laced to older rims. Is that Ok?
 
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I am upgrading from some old Maillard hubs to Shimano 105's in order to use a 9 speed cassette. I got the hubs for cheap so I will build the wheels. The existing rims are Mavic Module E 700c, 36h, (mid 80's) and very nice eyeleted rims.
Can I use these rims to lace to the new hubs? Any reason not to?
The wheels I have are true and ride fine. I will get new spokes since the old ones would be the wrong length anyway.
Thanks.

old and new 10-24-09 08:00 PM

I'm not wild about the idea. The wheel builder will choose to use the old rims or refuse to, most refuse that I've spoken to & dealt with, I'm only telling you what to expect.

If you're trying your hand at it, I suppose you could try.
Exceptions exist. Members have stated "I do it all the time"

Shinyhubs4 10-24-09 08:05 PM

I am planning on lacing them and it won't be my first wheel but I am far from experienced at it.
If it's a horrible idea I may reconsider but I was trying to save some cash on the rims.

Retro Grouch 10-24-09 08:22 PM

Two issues:

1. How much wear do the brake tracks have?
2. Once you get the rims separate from the hubs, how flat and round are they?

FLYcrash 10-24-09 08:25 PM

It's a lot of effort to build a pair of wheels with used rims, especially if you're dropping the money for new spokes anyway.

I'd vote for stretching your budget if possible...think about it this way. Adding a pair of new rims to the mix upgrades you from a potentially sketchy assembly of new and used parts to a brand new pair of handbuilt wheels!

[Then again, if the rims look good and have few miles on them (i.e. little to no wear on the braking surfaces), then it is something you might find me trying someday. I'm known not always to be rational from a economic or time-efficiency point of view when it comes to bikes.]

Edit: I just saw that you have 27 x 1-1/4 rims...which means you'd have to change the tires too if you upgraded to modern 700c rims. That would make me more likely to try reusing the rims.

Shinyhubs4 10-24-09 08:33 PM

I haven't unlaced the old wheels yet so I don't know how flat and round the rims are. I will have to check the braking surface on them.
I think I might have been persuaded to find some new rims that look good but don't cost too much. If the rims meet the requirements to try it, I do that and then the wheels suck then that would, well suck big time.

If there are any suggestions on a decent rim that might be of the quality I had I would appreciate it. Silver box rim.

JohnDThompson 10-24-09 08:43 PM

Nice rims. Go for it. :thumb:

Shinyhubs4 10-24-09 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by FLYcrash (Post 9919275)

Edit: I just saw that you have 27 x 1-1/4 rims...which means you'd have to change the tires too if you upgraded to modern 700c rims. That would make me more likely to try reusing the rims.

I used a stock pictures of the rims since I didn't have one of my rims so I do have 700c rims. Sorry for any confusion. Mine are that shiny though.

Mr. Fly 10-24-09 08:53 PM

I am sure you've confirmed that the spoke counts for both hubs and rims are consistent (i.e., 36). :innocent:

If the brake surfaces are OK, since you indicated that your wheels are currently true, you can almost-confirm that the rims are OK by determining the spoke tension consistency for each side of the wheel (for rear wheels) or for the entire wheel (for front wheels). The consistency of the spoke tension can tell you if the rim required extraordinary tweaking to get it true. Pluck the spokes for tone if you don't have a tensiometer.

If the rims are in good condition, I don't see any issue with rebuilding them with a new hub. If you don't ride much in the rain, and use a rim-friendly brake pad (Koolstop Salmon, amongst others), rims can last quite a few tens of thousands of miles. The only things you'll loose from this experience if it turns out unfavorably is you'll be out a set of spokes and some of your time. If you're an optimist, you can even chalk up the time to wheel building experience gained. :thumb:

old and new 10-24-09 10:13 PM

Regular Mavic Sport rims, a low profile box rim not unlike yours cost just under 40
XM 317s, more modern and better than yours cost the same, depends on the store.
Machined sidewalls.
I don' know, rather than cheer you one, I reccomend that you keep what you have whole, sell 'em, keep 'em but rather than wrecking them, start anew. Curious to know how many of you've experienced clicking Mavics. Pros rarely re-use.

old and new 10-24-09 10:14 PM

if if if if .. all sounds iffy

davidad 10-24-09 10:18 PM

Sidewall wear should be your main consideration. The second is the ability to relace a new rim in when these wear out.

Shinyhubs4 10-24-09 10:38 PM


Originally Posted by old and new (Post 9919775)
Regular Mavic Sport rims, a low profile box rim not unlike yours cost just under 40
XM 317s, more modern and better than yours cost the same, depends on the store.
Machined sidewalls.
I don' know, rather than cheer you one, I reccomend that you keep what you have whole, sell 'em, keep 'em but rather than wrecking them, start anew. Curious to know how many of you've experienced clicking Mavics. Pros rarely re-use.

It could be good just to start anew. The existing wheels might not be very desirable since the rear is a Helicomatic 6 speed from a Peugeot. The cogs are still good but 8 speeds would be nice.

I agree on the comment re: the braking surface might be ok now but the hubs will far outlast the older rims and eventually rims will have to go.

The wheels might not be worth much but any opinions on that would be welcomed.
This is a picture of the wheels on the bike.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e3.../Mavicrims.jpg

Mr IGH 10-25-09 07:13 AM

Sometimes the eyelets fall apart, then I never know what to do. I'd build them up if it was for show, if it's a rider I'd find some NOS or just buy modern silver and remove the stickers.

HillRider 10-25-09 08:49 AM

I did exactly what you are proposing to substitute a newer cassette hub into an existing freewheel hub wheel. The original was a Maillard freewheel hub and the rim was a Trek house brand (Matrix?) 36H 700c. The wheel was quite old (from an '89 Trek 560) but in low mileage, low wear condition.

I replaced the Maillard hub with a Shimano Acera X 36H freehub that was originally 7-speed and replaced its freehub body with an 8/9-speed body. I got the Acera -X hub at no cost from a trashed wheel my LBS was going to discard and the 8-speed freehub body was a surplus in my parts box so the parts cost of this swap was zero. I compared the two hubs and, to my pleasure, the flange diameters and spacing were nearly identical so the original spokes could be reused

I gradually detensioned the original wheel 1/2 turn at a time until it was loose and the removed all of the nipples and spokes. Then I laced in the Acera-X hub following the original spoke pattern, tensioned and trued the wheel and it's been fine ever since.

I intended this wheel for use on a bike mostly used on an indoor trainer but it has been ridden on the roads many times with excellent results.

So, if your rim is in good condition and the spoke count matches, go for it. You may even be able to use the same spokes if you use the same cross pattern as hubs are often very similar in dimensions despite being different makes and models.

grasscutter 10-25-09 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by Shinyhubs4 (Post 9919083)
I will get new spokes since the old ones would be the wrong length anyway.
Thanks.

It is NOT ALWAYS a given, that the spokes will be wrong length. Remember that you have a bit of lee-way in the spoke nipples. Yes, you MAY have to get new spokes, but without tearing it all down and starting the build, I would not automatically assume you need to buy them.

(measure the 2 hubs. They may be fairly identical. A difference of 1-2mm should not warrant spoke replacement.)

urbanknight 10-25-09 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Retro Grouch (Post 9919263)
Two issues:

1. How much wear do the brake tracks have?
2. Once you get the rims separate from the hubs, how flat and round are they?

This.

I did it plenty of times, but it was on track bikes where the brake tracks never got any wear and the hubs had bad bearings.


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