Booger1

If you want to try a goop,search for Devcon.It's like Loctite on steroids.I would use the Ti based stuff.

DMF 

He's trying to avoid that. JB Weld or Liquid Steel would do as "well".

Unicornz0

LOL!
I cleaned the threads really good with brake parts cleaner and made sure that I would have a good bond.
As I was looking into the BB shell after removing the BB as the Form-A-Thread had initially set up I did notice tht the newly formed threads were messed up. I'm all for trying it again, but removing the BB without damaging the new threads is going to be the problem. Maybe the threads are just to messed up. I can push the BB out of the BB shell. As I'm writing and thinking about this, I think the threads are too far gone. What does the community think?
Too bad the BB shell is messed up, the frame is in pretty good condition other wise. I'm thinking about just stripping the parts, and the rear suspension. Maybe I'll come across another 2000 Enduro in the future, maybe one in need of a rear suspension.
Thanks agin,
Uni

Unicornz0

Thanks, I think my threads are too messed up.

Unicornz0

I Think you are right,
Thanks

BCRider

A thought. Using the Form A Thread kit on something the size of a BB may be too much surface area for the bond to deal with. On a smaller application with a coarser thread pitch to diameter ratio it may be just fine. But perhaps using it on a BB application is just too far out of it's intended application.

You may want to email or call Loctite support and ask. They may tell you that you're out to lunch or they may have some hints on a way to prepare the shell to better key to the Form A Thread material so the new thread doesn't peel away like it did the first time around. Be prepared with the BB diameter and thread pitch info when you call or include it with the email. And be sure to tell them that the shell you're restoring the threads in is badly chewed and that it's aluminium. All that should help them with providing a good answer.

It's worth asking since you've just got a pretty wind chime on your hands unless you can fix the threads somehow.

Unicornz0

Thanks BCRider. I'm just going to move on, salvage what I can for a future build.

Unicornz0

I awakend this morning with a slightly renewed ambition to try the Prestine Threadless BB (thanks Bianchigirll ) before I strip the frame of it's parts.
The part is comming from the UK, so it may take a couple of weeks to get here. I will post about my experience with it after arrival. The Parkers-Bolton site says that thr BB is suitable for mountain bikes, I hope so.
Let me know your thoughts please.

https://corporate.marketplaceadvisor....c=0&i=67122086

Thanks again,
Uni

rccardr 

Has anybody tried welding/TIG welding new material into the threads and then re-tapping? I would think if you were careful and used heatsinks, there would not be much (if any) distortion of the BB shell.

Might not even have to add material all the way around, just in five to eight strips a half inch or so into the shell...

Unicornz0

Hello Everyone, the Prestine threadless BB arrived today. It looks okay, so I thought I would give it a try. Well, it's not going to work The non drive side will not tighten, it just spins as if stripped.

It's not stripped. The non drive side cup's threads do not extend far enough to accommodate the e-type FD. I really don't think swapping the FD is possible because the frame tube where a clamp type FD will attach is not totally round. It is flattened above the BB shell.

I've pretty much given up on this frame, even though I really like it, with it's black anodized color and yellow racing strips. Maybe I'll come across it's twin one day.
I picked up a 2002 Enduro Pro frame, silver, with a Psylo SL fork on EBay. So I plan on using the parts from the 2000 Enduro Expert on The 2002 Enduro Pro.

Looks like I've already run into a small problem. The 2002 frame looks like it has cable routing for mechanical disc brakes and I plan on using hydraulics'. I did notice some cable guides that I'm unfamiliar with. Hopefully they are for the rear hydraulic line. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

Thanks again,
Uni

Iowegian

Uhhh....that would be me. Sorry about reviving a zombie thread but this is exactly what just happened to me. I was coming home with groceries and thought I had a loose crank arm. I was relieved to see it was the BB fixed cup that was loose but thought 'how did that happen'. When I got home I saw that the threads on the fixed side shell are mostly gone.

So, what's the consensus? Italian cups? Does anyone have an over-sized BSC fixed cup available? Do the over-sized cups need an over-sized tap? Any other good options?

DMF 

Consensus: Call the frame undertaker.

Iowegian

never!

I'll ask around the local shops since there are plenty here but from a little more research on my part, I've found 1.39x24 Campy cups are available but pricey. I'm also not sure I want to do that since the increase diameter is small and it might not hold over the longer term.

Going Italian would fix that but then I'd be stuck with a 68mm Italian shell and if that ever went out it would be the end of the frame.

The Velo-Orange threadless BB seems to be getting good reviews so that is what I'll probably do, once I get over the $60 price tag. Here's a nice write-up on it (thanks Grand Bois for the link).

jccaclimber

I've heard good things about the Velo Orange bb. Italian is really the only other practical option. If you have a buddy who is good with a lathe you could always make a threaded insert, but that's a long shot.

JohnDThompson 

Campy used to offer oversize cups, but I haven't seen them listed for at least a couple decades now.

Two options are either a threadless cartridge like the Velo-Orange, or ream and re-tap to Italian thread.

JohnDThompson 

Why? With a cup and cone BB you can simply use a 68mm spindle with Italian cups. A 70mm cartiridge would also work, but leave a couple millimeters of overhang on the NDS. This is a cosmetic problem, not a functional issue.

Buggering it up with JB Weld would be the end of the frame when whatever bottom bracket was installed finally fails.

Iowegian

I guess you're right about the Italian setup. I'm finding it harder to find loose spindles but they are out there and as you said, a cartridge BB would still work with spacers. I guess what I meant is that since the Velo-Orange threadless BB doesn't work on Italian shells if I ream/tap it to Italian threads it has to work (which is probably not a big deal as long as the threading is done right). Still, I think I'll try the Velo-Orange threadless setup first since that has no impact on the other possibilities.

PS - JB Weld is not under consideration

tanguy frame

Tap it Italian. I did it years ago and never looked back.