disc brake installation
Hello,
Can someone point me to a good source for disc removal and installation? Do I need special tools? I think mine's just a simple 6-bolt pattern. Normally www.bicycletutor.com would be my go to reference. Alas, there's no videos on this yet. |
Remove 6 bolts. Take disc off. Put new disc on. Put on 6 bolts.
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 9942983)
Remove 6 bolts. Take disc off. Put new disc on. Put on 6 bolts.
http://aebike.com/images/library/cat...50m/TL7475.jpg |
Originally Posted by operator
(Post 9942983)
Remove 6 bolts. Take disc off. Put new disc on. Put on 6 bolts.
|
When installing the six screws, alternate the tightening sequence in a criss-cross fashion, and tighten them a little at a time. For example, lightly tighten in pattern like 1-4-2-5-3-6, then repeat the pattern using a little more torque, and finally a third tighten sequence such that the screws are fully tightened by the third (or fourth) evolution.
This ensures the rotor is flush against the hub and decreases chance for warpage. |
Also, note there may be a "directional arrow" on the rotor, so make sure it's mounted such that the arrow indicates direction of forward rotation.
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Don't forget to use a torque wrench.
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Originally Posted by joejack951
(Post 9945362)
Don't forget to use a torque wrench.
Hell, even the bike shop didn't use one when fitting my BB7s. Should be able to do it by feel relatively easily. |
Originally Posted by Luke52
(Post 9945583)
I've never used a torque wrench when installing rotors, had no issues yet.
Hell, even the bike shop didn't use one when fitting my BB7s. Should be able to do it by feel relatively easily. |
A t-25 is all you really need that you might not have already. Just follow the directions that come with the disc brake, they are usually pretty good
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Originally Posted by MudPie
(Post 9945333)
When installing the six screws, alternate the tightening sequence in a criss-cross fashion, and tighten them a little at a time. For example, lightly tighten in pattern like 1-4-2-5-3-6, then repeat the pattern using a little more torque, and finally a third tighten sequence such that the screws are fully tightened by the third (or fourth) evolution.
This ensures the rotor is flush against the hub and decreases chance for warpage. A t-25 is all you really need that you might not have already. Just follow the directions that come with the disc brake, they are usually pretty good |
Originally Posted by joejack951
(Post 9946173)
Of course a seasoned mechanic could do it by feel but I'm not getting that impression from the OP. And regardless of your skill with tightening fasteners, is it really worth a potential wheel rebuild to skip the torque wrench?
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Originally Posted by joejack951
(Post 9946173)
Of course a seasoned mechanic could do it by feel but I'm not getting that impression from the OP. And regardless of your skill with tightening fasteners, is it really worth a potential wheel rebuild to skip the torque wrench?
When I originally got my BB7s, I was really cautious about everything (being my first brake swap) and I asked the guy at the bike shop "On a scale of 1-10, how important is it to get the correct torque in the rotor bolts?" His reply: "Around a 2?" |
Originally Posted by Mike T.
(Post 9948680)
If this is so necessary then I wonder why the brake makers include a t-25 Torx wrench in with the brake hardware? Every set that I've ever fitted did.
You know it is also possible that they wanted to include a torque wrench (every disc brake set I've bought had a specific torque recommendation after all) but realized it would add too much to the cost and/or that any decent mechanic already owns a torque wrench? |
Originally Posted by Luke52
(Post 9949026)
When I originally got my BB7s, I was really cautious about everything (being my first brake swap) and I asked the guy at the bike shop "On a scale of 1-10, how important is it to get the correct torque in the rotor bolts?"
His reply: "Around a 2?" Rebuild a wheel because you stripped a hole in the front hub disc mount then come back and say how unimportant correct torque on a rotor bolt is. |
My two cents: If you want to save weight only use 3 bolts.
No really, don't do that. |
Originally Posted by joejack951
(Post 9952441)
And you had no problems using a tool of questionable quality and minimal leverage to install your rotors? I'm happy that worked out for you.
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Not using a torque wrench on car wheels has a HUGE effect on brake performance/warping. I would use a torque wrench for sure, uneven torque could cause warping, especially when the rotor gets hot.
If you don't ride hills you may not see a problem but if you do you might very well ruin a set. |
Originally Posted by joejack951
(Post 9952452)
And his word is apparently gospel? Right... :rolleyes:
Rebuild a wheel because you stripped a hole in the front hub disc mount then come back and say how unimportant correct torque on a rotor bolt is. When I have installed rotors, I've found it quite easy to torque the bolts by feel, get them fairly tight, yet felt confident that nothing was about to strip at all. |
The only other brake rotor mount uses a Shimano cartridge BB tool. Feel free to correct.
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