![]() |
Bicycle Powder Coating Project
Thanks for all of you guys for your posts and information. This site has been a huge asset to me as I learn more about how to repair my bicycles. I thought I would share what information I have with powder coating as this seems to be a topic many of you have inquired about. I run a powder coating business and I specialize in bicycle refinishing. I am not spamming, just wanted to share with some of you how a bike gets refinished in the powder coating process. Thanks again for all the help you have given me over the years. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
This was a recent project where the customer had an older Schwinn Circuit that he really liked and wanted to get it refinished as opposed to buying a new bike. This was the bike in it's original condition as given to us. http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1967/img3491.jpg Surface rust on the tubes http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6995/img3494xg.jpg He also wanted the cranks refinished. http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5876/img3501f.jpg We blast the frames clean of all the paint and rust to prep them for powder coating. When you use powder you MUST have a very clean and paint free surface for the powder to adhere to. We blast our frames to make sure they are completely cleaned. Chemical strippers will work, but some can leave a residue that will effect the powder. Here the frame and cranks have been stripped and cleaned. http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6862/img3511x.jpg You can see the brazing of the welds (yellow areas around lugs) when the frames are stripped. http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/3426/img3513h.jpg The customer wanted a "candy" finish which required a base coat of powder and then a second top coat applied. The base coat covers all the metal blems and brazing colors, so that you have a nice uniform coating for the top coat to adhere to. We used a mirror metallic silver powder for a base coat. The powder is sprayed on the frames and sent into the over to bake. Once the powder is baked (400 degrees for 10 min.) the powder melts and forms a coating over the metal. The pictures don't capture it, but this is a high gloss metallic finish now. The silver looks almost too nice to paint over! http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7909/img3530.jpg Next we apply the top coat of the deep red translucent powder. Here the bike is coated and heading back into the oven to bake. http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8971/img3533.jpg The frame is baked and allowed to cool. The frame is now complete and ready to rebuild. This powder forms a super high gloss Red finish, with the metallic base coat shining through in the sunlight. Very pretty bike. http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9968/img3542b.jpg http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2075/img3544m.jpg http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/9214/img3546y.jpg The customer loved his new bike. Powder coating is a fantastic option. It provides a very hard and durable finish. It can be applied to steel or aluminum frames (no carbon parts) and can also be applied to cranks, stems, brakes ect... This particular bike cost 130.00 to have it stripped, cleaned and the frame & fork painted in a base coat and top coat. Most powder require only one coat, if you opt to have a "Candy" or "Translucent" finish then you will need two have the two stage process done. Prices can vary widely from coater to coater so be sure to check around. I often will apply a "clear coat" finish to the bikes after they are painted to give them a higher gloss finish. I you are interested I have a facebook page where we have more of our bike projects posted weekly (we are in Kansas City), please feel free to have a look and become a "fan". http://www.new.facebook.com/pages/Ka...t/185783299918 Thanks again for all this forum has done to help me, hope this gives back a little for some of you who have been curious about powder coating a bicycle. |
Powder coating is thicker than solvent paint, and much more durable. It is very important that holes, threads, etc are masked or plugged before paint, or else reassembly will require tapping and chasing of the threads.
Some types of powder coatings provide better coverage on sharp edges, which is were frames tend to start to rust. So ask your powder coater what type of powder he or she recommends. |
Merlin is correct. You can see in the last two photo's some "flash" on the BB opening and the derailleur hanger bolt. We use special silicone plugs to cap off any threaded opening and seat tube/head tube areas. You do not want any powder on threaded parts or you will need to chase them with a tap.
|
You will also notice in the picture of the fork the green tape wrapped around the race. This is a special high heat tape that will not melt in the oven. You can mask off areas of the frame to keep the powder off.
|
Originally Posted by Wardrive
(Post 10006999)
Merlin is correct. You can see in the last two photo's some "flash" on the BB opening and the derailleur hanger bolt. We use special silicone plugs to cap off any threaded opening and seat tube/head tube areas. You do not want any powder on threaded parts or you will need to chase them with a tap.
Did you actually use the BB cup to mask the BB threads or a couple of those silicone plugs? |
Splendid results ! All very good to know from the OP & other members. Price seems well worth it indeed !
|
re
Each coater is different. We have several extra BB cups that we thread into the BB for the media blasting process to make sure threads do not get damaged, we then will remove them and insert the silicone plugs when we are ready to shoot the powder.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:39 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.