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Shimano RD part numbers

Old 12-23-09, 03:40 AM
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Shimano RD part numbers

I'm fixing up a neglected mountain bike and the rear derailleur (9s Deore) is sticking. The donor bike has an LX rear derailleur, but can't find the model number on it. It's dark gray. Any idea where I can find it? It's coming off a bike with a mix of thrown together parts... 8 speed shifters, 7 speed cassette, etc., so I'm trying to figure out if the derailleur will reach far enough for 9 speeds.
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Old 12-23-09, 05:46 AM
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You have it in hand, try it and see. I bet it will work.
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Old 12-23-09, 06:19 AM
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I guess that it's possible but I've never found the side-to-side range of rear derailleurs to be an issue.
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Old 12-23-09, 07:55 AM
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Shimano rear derailleur part and model numbers are engraved on the inside plate of the parallelogram.

I have an LX RD-M550 that came on a 1993 7-speed Trek MTB that I upgraded to 8-speed and it works fine. So, if it shifts 8-speeds, it will shift 9-speed.

As RG noted, I've never come across a rear derailleur that was limited by its side-to-side range of travel.
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Old 12-23-09, 08:28 AM
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If the sticking is the pivot where it bolts into the dropout you can take it apart,clean it and regrease it.
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Old 12-23-09, 09:24 AM
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Thanks everyone! I'll try cleaning the current one first, but it sounds like the other one will install without a hitch.
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Old 12-29-09, 02:59 PM
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Well, now I'm not sure what the problem is. I rode it to see if I could figure out exactly what was happening, and discovered that the chain is getting stuck on the middle chainring at the bottom and then releases when it comes back around and hits the top side of the chain as it goes onto the chainring. What could be causing that? The chainrings (stock Specialized) doesn't seem worn, the cassette (Shimano 9s) doesn't seem worn, the derailleur (Deore 9s) tension seems adequate, and the chain (KMC Super Narrow) passed the chain checker in various places.
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Old 12-29-09, 03:51 PM
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Four be a tight link in the chain or a bent tooth on the middle ring.
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Old 12-29-09, 03:54 PM
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What you are describing is known as "chain suck" and it's usually caused by badly worn chainring teeth and/or a damaged chain. Turn the crank backwards slowly and watch the chain as it comes off the lower pulley of the rear derailleur to see if there is a tight link or other defects. Check the chainring for a bent or twisted tooth.
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Old 12-29-09, 04:10 PM
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Thanks. I already turned the crank backwards and couldn't find any irregularity on the chain. I'll take the chainrings completely off and inspect them.
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Old 12-29-09, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
Thanks. I already turned the crank backwards and couldn't find any irregularity on the chain. I'll take the chainrings completely off and inspect them.
Chain suck is caused by the shark-fin shape on the worn out side of the chainring teeth. The hook at the tip hangs onto the chain. You can flip chainrings around so that the chain-roller is pushed by the unworn side of the teeth.
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Old 12-31-09, 02:45 PM
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To add more support to the worn-ring theory, the middle ring is usually the first to go.
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Old 12-31-09, 08:49 PM
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I swapped the ring out. The way it's stamped, it can't be reversed. I do remember the middle ring being the most used one and the most commonly replaced when I rode mtb years ago. Thanks for the help!
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