Need 24 hole rim
12-29-09, 09:25 PM
#1
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Need 24 hole rim
I just bought a Velomax/Easton hub on ebay that comes with the spokes that go with an Ascent rim. The seller bought the wheel just for the rim which sounds somewhat backwards but whatever.
In any event, I need a rim that's the same size as the Ascent and 24 holes. It isn't so easy to replace the spokes as these are double threaded. My understanding is that Velomax used Velocity rims, so maybe I'll look there as a start. I'll also check out Easton of course. If anyone has any other advice I'd appreciate it.
In any event, I need a rim that's the same size as the Ascent and 24 holes. It isn't so easy to replace the spokes as these are double threaded. My understanding is that Velomax used Velocity rims, so maybe I'll look there as a start. I'll also check out Easton of course. If anyone has any other advice I'd appreciate it.
12-30-09, 08:44 AM
#2
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Well, for your sake, I really hope that the seller didn't exhaust every other option before resorting to buying a whole wheel to acquire a replacement rim. But that's my first thought. He would have had to get quite a deal on that wheel to make it a better option than buying just the rim.
That doesn't mean that you're out of luck just yet though, but you'll need to know the ERD of the missing rim before you can go out shopping for a replacement. My first advice would be to contact the seller and ask him if he know's what the 'measured' ERD is for the missing rim, and if he can provide it, you'll be able to comparison shop to find another rim that will work, or figure out which rim from the Velocity line was used. If Velocity did make their rim, they might be able to answer that question, depending on how much information they're able to disclose on the matter. I'd contact them as well. But the ERD is ERD and with that you'll be able to buy any rim that matches the spoke count and ERD to lace up.
It might be possible to calculate the needed ERD by using a spoke calculation formula in reverse, but that would involve some really accurate measuring, and perhaps some luck. And I'm not sure if the 'automatic' online spoke calculators will accept any two of the three variables in order to pump out the third. But it might be worth looking into, and have a trusted shop measure your hub/spokes.
You also don't mention whether or not this is a front or rear wheel. 24 spokes is a really low count for a rear wheel, and won't likely build up to a long lasting wheel through regular use. For a front wheel, and assuming you're not well above 200 lbs., it should be ok if built well.
Either way, let us know what you find out. And good luck. =)
-Jeremy
That doesn't mean that you're out of luck just yet though, but you'll need to know the ERD of the missing rim before you can go out shopping for a replacement. My first advice would be to contact the seller and ask him if he know's what the 'measured' ERD is for the missing rim, and if he can provide it, you'll be able to comparison shop to find another rim that will work, or figure out which rim from the Velocity line was used. If Velocity did make their rim, they might be able to answer that question, depending on how much information they're able to disclose on the matter. I'd contact them as well. But the ERD is ERD and with that you'll be able to buy any rim that matches the spoke count and ERD to lace up.
It might be possible to calculate the needed ERD by using a spoke calculation formula in reverse, but that would involve some really accurate measuring, and perhaps some luck. And I'm not sure if the 'automatic' online spoke calculators will accept any two of the three variables in order to pump out the third. But it might be worth looking into, and have a trusted shop measure your hub/spokes.
You also don't mention whether or not this is a front or rear wheel. 24 spokes is a really low count for a rear wheel, and won't likely build up to a long lasting wheel through regular use. For a front wheel, and assuming you're not well above 200 lbs., it should be ok if built well.
Either way, let us know what you find out. And good luck. =)
-Jeremy
12-30-09, 08:08 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
How much leeway is there in ERD? I'm pretty sure now the rim is a Velocity Aerohead OC, but if I wanted something else is it just a matter of how much or little thread is exposed on the spoke?
It is a rear, so I know I'm getting into fragile weight weenie territory with the 24 spokes. As for the seller, he is sending the hub and spokes with an original cracked rim used as protection. So I guess I'll get my answer. I don't quite understand how he came to have a cracked rim AND a new one that is used with a Powertap.
Now all I need is a matching front...
It is a rear, so I know I'm getting into fragile weight weenie territory with the 24 spokes. As for the seller, he is sending the hub and spokes with an original cracked rim used as protection. So I guess I'll get my answer. I don't quite understand how he came to have a cracked rim AND a new one that is used with a Powertap.
Now all I need is a matching front...
12-30-09, 09:07 PM
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I've only recently been learning about wheels, so the bulk of my knowledge is based on reading and this forum. I've only built a couple of wheels, so my advice is based on only a little bit of experience.
ERD is important though, and you'd only be able to deviate by a small bit from it if you're going to use the same spokes. A 4 mm ERD deviation should equate to 2mm spoke length deviation, since you're splitting the diameter between the two halves.
You'd have to ask others here on exactly how much deviation from "perfect" that you can get before you run into build problems, but if you buy a rim that's got too low an ERD, you'll bottom out your spokes before you can get the wheel up to tension. If you go with an ERD that's too high, you won't have enough threads engaged. If you're pretty confident of the rim you need, then go with that rim. But if you're not sure, that's a $50 gamble.
Hopefully others will chime in on this one.
-Jeremy
ERD is important though, and you'd only be able to deviate by a small bit from it if you're going to use the same spokes. A 4 mm ERD deviation should equate to 2mm spoke length deviation, since you're splitting the diameter between the two halves.
You'd have to ask others here on exactly how much deviation from "perfect" that you can get before you run into build problems, but if you buy a rim that's got too low an ERD, you'll bottom out your spokes before you can get the wheel up to tension. If you go with an ERD that's too high, you won't have enough threads engaged. If you're pretty confident of the rim you need, then go with that rim. But if you're not sure, that's a $50 gamble.
Hopefully others will chime in on this one.
-Jeremy
12-30-09, 10:24 PM
#5
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I've only recently been learning about wheels, so the bulk of my knowledge is based on reading and this forum. I've only built a couple of wheels, so my advice is based on only a little bit of experience.
ERD is important though, and you'd only be able to deviate by a small bit from it if you're going to use the same spokes. A 4 mm ERD deviation should equate to 2mm spoke length deviation, since you're splitting the diameter between the two halves.
You'd have to ask others here on exactly how much deviation from "perfect" that you can get before you run into build problems, but if you buy a rim that's got too low an ERD, you'll bottom out your spokes before you can get the wheel up to tension. If you go with an ERD that's too high, you won't have enough threads engaged. If you're pretty confident of the rim you need, then go with that rim. But if you're not sure, that's a $50 gamble.
Hopefully others will chime in on this one.
-Jeremy
ERD is important though, and you'd only be able to deviate by a small bit from it if you're going to use the same spokes. A 4 mm ERD deviation should equate to 2mm spoke length deviation, since you're splitting the diameter between the two halves.
You'd have to ask others here on exactly how much deviation from "perfect" that you can get before you run into build problems, but if you buy a rim that's got too low an ERD, you'll bottom out your spokes before you can get the wheel up to tension. If you go with an ERD that's too high, you won't have enough threads engaged. If you're pretty confident of the rim you need, then go with that rim. But if you're not sure, that's a $50 gamble.
Hopefully others will chime in on this one.
-Jeremy
01-01-10, 08:55 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
The problem is I can't take an exact measurement as the hubs don't have a circle of holes. These are straight threaded hubs so the spokes can be varied some at the hub end. The way they are coming to me is with the spokes already threaded in and secured with Loctite, as from the manufacturer. As I already mentioned though a rim is coming with it and I can measure the ERD on that. I'm pretty certain at this point that it is a Velocity Aerohead OC. Velomax did not have the capacity to manufacture their own rims, nor have them made to spec. They were a pretty small company. They focused on the hubs. Easton OTOH, is much bigger and their new stuff is very different but uses the Velomax technology.
