Use XTR rear-drive train with Dura-Ace shifters?
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Use XTR rear-drive train with Dura-Ace shifters?
I have a road bike with 10spd Dura Ace components.
I am wanting to make this a serious climbing bike by using an XTR rear derailleur and XTR 9-speed cassette.
I am wondering if that would work OK, after reading Sheldon Brown's page on Alternate Routing: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer...html#alternate
I think that it might just work OK.
Any thoughts?
I am wanting to make this a serious climbing bike by using an XTR rear derailleur and XTR 9-speed cassette.
I am wondering if that would work OK, after reading Sheldon Brown's page on Alternate Routing: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer...html#alternate
I think that it might just work OK.
Any thoughts?
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That's my point, from Sheldon's site:
Shimano originally publicized this as a way to make older Dura-Ace shifters work with newer Shimano derailers, but it is also useful for other applications where you want to make the derailer move slightly farther for each click. This would mainly be when you wanted to use a 9-speed cassette with 10 speed shifters, or 8-speed cassette with 9-speed shifters, or a 7-speed cluster with 8-speed shifters.
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It works, but only for certain values of the word "work".
If you can accept your shifting sort of working sometimes, go with the alternate routing technique, but don't call it a "serious climbing bike" if you do.
If you want to continue using your shifters, I would use a 10 speed cassette with the wide ratio you're looking for. IRD's 10s mountain cassettes work reasonably well with a Shimano mountain derailleur. SRAM's XX cassette would probably work even better, they just cost a lot more.
If you can accept your shifting sort of working sometimes, go with the alternate routing technique, but don't call it a "serious climbing bike" if you do.
If you want to continue using your shifters, I would use a 10 speed cassette with the wide ratio you're looking for. IRD's 10s mountain cassettes work reasonably well with a Shimano mountain derailleur. SRAM's XX cassette would probably work even better, they just cost a lot more.
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I have 105 shifters and an xt derailleur and cassette (everything is 9 spd) and i have no problems with shifting.
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I have a road bike with 10spd Dura Ace components.
I am wanting to make this a serious climbing bike by using an XTR rear derailleur and XTR 9-speed cassette.
I am wondering if that would work OK, after reading Sheldon Brown's page on Alternate Routing: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer...html#alternate
I think that it might just work OK.
Any thoughts?
I am wanting to make this a serious climbing bike by using an XTR rear derailleur and XTR 9-speed cassette.
I am wondering if that would work OK, after reading Sheldon Brown's page on Alternate Routing: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer...html#alternate
I think that it might just work OK.
Any thoughts?
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#7
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Road cycling works best with more tightly-spaced gears than any mountain cassette can give you. You can get low gears without giving up gear spacing by using a triple crankset. If you already have a triple crankset, and still want lower gears then just switch your inner 30-tooth chainring for a 26-tooth, you would not need to change anything else to achieve this (except for adding a chain retention device as a guarantee against dropping your chain when shifting into the small chainring).
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Road cycling works best with more tightly-spaced gears than any mountain cassette can give you. You can get low gears without giving up gear spacing by using a triple crankset. If you already have a triple crankset, and still want lower gears then just switch your inner 30-tooth chainring for a 26-tooth, you would not need to change anything else to achieve this (except for adding a chain retention device as a guarantee against dropping your chain when shifting into the small chainring).
As for road bikes working better with tighter gears, that depends on the use. Cassettes shift so well now that even a wide range one shifts extremely well and extremely quickly. ScottChapman wants something to climb with and he knows best what his needs are.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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I would agree. My cassette is clean and quick with shifting. The only issue I've had is that the difficulty level between gears is much greater with an mtb cassette, so you have to be a lot more cognizant of whats up the road and shift in advance.
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The IRD 10-speed cassette with a Shimano mountain type RD would be a much better choice than trying to make a 9-speed cassette work.
The problem with a mountain type cassette is the big ratio jumps and corresponding cadence jumps from cog to cog. But it you need a cassette with a 32 or 34 cog then you need it. It's really up to your needs. And you could always switch back to a close ratio cassette when needed, the Shimano mountain derailleurs will work with either.
Al
The problem with a mountain type cassette is the big ratio jumps and corresponding cadence jumps from cog to cog. But it you need a cassette with a 32 or 34 cog then you need it. It's really up to your needs. And you could always switch back to a close ratio cassette when needed, the Shimano mountain derailleurs will work with either.
Al
Last edited by Al1943; 01-06-10 at 06:58 PM.
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