Bike stand
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Bike stand
I need a solid bike mechanics stand. I was looking for something a little more substantial than the Park Tools stand. What are you guys using?
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https://performance-downhill.com/Park...B000C17I4S.htm
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I have a homemade rig that goes into the seatpost. It's substantial, since it's made out of 3/4-inch iron pipe bolted into a cinderblock wall.
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OP, do you have a budget in mind (judging from your bikes probably not)? Will you be leaving it set up all the time in a garage or taking it down when not in use?
Have you ever used a Park stand or are you just going by their looks? I got a PCS-10 for $125 and I'm very impressed/happy with its stability, quality, and the clamp. I would argue there's not a better bang for the buck stand out there. (it's head and shoulders above the pcs-9 which requires an allen wrench to adjust and has a screw-type clamp). I also looked hard at the Ultimate Pro Elite but in the end couldn't justify paying nearly 2x as much given the amount of use I expected. The PCS-10 folds up small enough, is light enough, and sets up fast enough, for me anyway. These stands (lower end Parks especially) seem to have great resale on CL if I change my mind.
Here's a good video review of the Ultimate in action though:
https://www.gramslightbikes.com/2009/...e-bicycle.html
Have you ever used a Park stand or are you just going by their looks? I got a PCS-10 for $125 and I'm very impressed/happy with its stability, quality, and the clamp. I would argue there's not a better bang for the buck stand out there. (it's head and shoulders above the pcs-9 which requires an allen wrench to adjust and has a screw-type clamp). I also looked hard at the Ultimate Pro Elite but in the end couldn't justify paying nearly 2x as much given the amount of use I expected. The PCS-10 folds up small enough, is light enough, and sets up fast enough, for me anyway. These stands (lower end Parks especially) seem to have great resale on CL if I change my mind.
Here's a good video review of the Ultimate in action though:
https://www.gramslightbikes.com/2009/...e-bicycle.html
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I have a nice Bontrager I got on sale in Aug. it is fairly stable but I would like the bike to be a bit higher, and to rotate the bike. you know back higher to clean RD, then front higher for cleaning fork/hub. I am seriously considering a Park Shop stand sans base. I will just attach the bast to a 4x4 square of plywood. should be more then enough for home use.
they may be expensive bit if you do most of your own work AND build biks on occasion it would certainly be worth it.
they may be expensive bit if you do most of your own work AND build biks on occasion it would certainly be worth it.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Use the biggest diameter bolts that will fit the holes in the upright's base holes and counter sink the heads into the underside of the plywood to make the base sit flat. Ideally, cut shallow recesses into the underside of the base and use large diameter washers to reenforce the bolt heads.
You can get a lot of torque on these stands and the base has to be both large enough not to tip over and thick enough not to let the bolts tear out.
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The Park PCS-10 serves me fine for home/local projects & repairs. But I'd be in the market for a double-clamped one that bolts to the floor for serious volume work.
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I use a PCS-12 which is a bench mount with the same clamp as the PCS-10. It works great and mounting it to a workbench ( I have mine mounted to a board that I then clamp in the bench vice) is much more solid than a bit of pipe on the floor.
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I recently replaced a PRS 10 stand after 10 years of hard use everywhere: at mountain bike races, 24 hour race series, various charity ride tech support, swap meets, Burningman bike repair camps (a thankless job if there ever was one), Interbike and other trade shows. It also was abused for a solid 2 years of daily use in my backyard towards the end of it's life. It worked flawlessly. I have had very little complaint regarding performance; after all those years and exposure to the elements, the plastic bits were starting to sag and the fasteners were loosening more often. the claw never gave me a problem. It's retired now, relegated to use on the Playa only.
I replaced it with a PCS 10. It's a little heavier, the clamp is not as nice but is just as effective. It does not come with a storage bag (not that I ever used it). It's more stable though, with a larger contact point area, similar to Ultimates.
I have a Single arm repair stand with a 75lb plate in the R&D/ work shop at the office. It was an older model, so I got the oversized and taller extension to put the claw up higher and be more stable. It was probably 20 years old when I bought it 2 years ago. It's got another lifetime left in it. I found it cheap on craigslist, advertized as a 'heavy duty storage stand'- It was included with a low end Gary Fisher Aquila.....
The Pedros home repair stand stand was kinda clunky and heavy with lots of moving slidy things to pinch your fingers. The Rockworks/pedros stands are much heavier, but stable, but I still don't like their clamp. And they are $800.
There are DIY stands out there, but IMO, nothing will beat a Park or Ultimate claw, especially the shop duty versions. At one point, I thought the only reason most shops use Park stands was due to Park being the only game in town; down with The Man, let the underdog prevail, etc. After watching competitors attempt to make a 'better' stand at a more affordable price for years, I realized none of them really came close to what Park has to offer in terms of functionality, ease of use, price and availabilty.
I type this looking at a Pedros master tool kit agumented with a smattering of tools from Park, Campag, Shimano, Crafstman, SK, and Var. Use what works. Tools are one of those places that you really shouldn't skimp on if you can afford it, especially if it is your livelyhood.
I replaced it with a PCS 10. It's a little heavier, the clamp is not as nice but is just as effective. It does not come with a storage bag (not that I ever used it). It's more stable though, with a larger contact point area, similar to Ultimates.
I have a Single arm repair stand with a 75lb plate in the R&D/ work shop at the office. It was an older model, so I got the oversized and taller extension to put the claw up higher and be more stable. It was probably 20 years old when I bought it 2 years ago. It's got another lifetime left in it. I found it cheap on craigslist, advertized as a 'heavy duty storage stand'- It was included with a low end Gary Fisher Aquila.....
The Pedros home repair stand stand was kinda clunky and heavy with lots of moving slidy things to pinch your fingers. The Rockworks/pedros stands are much heavier, but stable, but I still don't like their clamp. And they are $800.
There are DIY stands out there, but IMO, nothing will beat a Park or Ultimate claw, especially the shop duty versions. At one point, I thought the only reason most shops use Park stands was due to Park being the only game in town; down with The Man, let the underdog prevail, etc. After watching competitors attempt to make a 'better' stand at a more affordable price for years, I realized none of them really came close to what Park has to offer in terms of functionality, ease of use, price and availabilty.
I type this looking at a Pedros master tool kit agumented with a smattering of tools from Park, Campag, Shimano, Crafstman, SK, and Var. Use what works. Tools are one of those places that you really shouldn't skimp on if you can afford it, especially if it is your livelyhood.
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I once had a home made stand using a plywood base. Be sure to use at least 1" plywood and, better yet, two thicknesses of 3/4" or 1" plywood. I used doubled up 3/4" plywood and glued and screwed the two pieces together before attaching the upright.
Use the biggest diameter bolts that will fit the holes in the upright's base holes and counter sink the heads into the underside of the plywood to make the base sit flat. Ideally, cut shallow recesses into the underside of the base and use large diameter washers to reenforce the bolt heads.
You can get a lot of torque on these stands and the base has to be both large enough not to tip over and thick enough not to let the bolts tear out.
Use the biggest diameter bolts that will fit the holes in the upright's base holes and counter sink the heads into the underside of the plywood to make the base sit flat. Ideally, cut shallow recesses into the underside of the base and use large diameter washers to reenforce the bolt heads.
You can get a lot of torque on these stands and the base has to be both large enough not to tip over and thick enough not to let the bolts tear out.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk