Thanks BF
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kimpo, S. Korea
Posts: 696
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix Expert 09, Custom 2013 Bike Friday Pocket Rocket
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks BF
I had a problem with my first road bike in Korea and my korean is poor right now. The LBS made the problem worse. After reading a bunch of posts and buying/borrowing some tools I managed to fix and tune up my 10 speed drivetrain including a chain replacement (I made the LBS pay for). I'd never really worked on a bike before. The bike shifts like butter now. I've learned a lot about bikes sifting through these threads. Thanks Bike Forums I particularly like the mechanics section of this forum.
GZB
Since I'm posting anyway I'll ask a question. I am changing out my pedals and I was thinking it would be a good idea to put a little white grease on the pedal before installing. Is that a good idea? Also, should I just use a little white grease on all the bolts like water cage bolts while I'm at it?
GZB
Since I'm posting anyway I'll ask a question. I am changing out my pedals and I was thinking it would be a good idea to put a little white grease on the pedal before installing. Is that a good idea? Also, should I just use a little white grease on all the bolts like water cage bolts while I'm at it?
#2
Kid A
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,778
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Yeah, everything I've read recommends using a bit of grease on those threaded parts. Some folks might say to use a thread locker instead to prevent loosening via vibration on the bottle cage bolts though...
I've never used white grease - I use cheap automotive grease, but bike-specific grease is probably better.
I've never used white grease - I use cheap automotive grease, but bike-specific grease is probably better.
#3
Senior Member
I use anti-seize on my pedal threads. It holds up better than grease and makes removal easier since the act of pedaling will tend to tighten pedals over time. Grease on bolt threads is always a good idea. Also, remember, the left pedal is reverse thread -- turn clockwise to loosen -- while the right pedal is regular thread -- counterclockwise to loosen.
#5
Elitist Troglodyte
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 6,925
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
White lithium grease is pretty thin. I'd lean more toward nice gunky axle grease.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?
- Will Rogers
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 437
Bikes: late 80's bianchi campion d'italia, early 90's trek 2100, early 90's shogun selectra, mid 90's aluminum marin xcMTB, dept. store grade but upgraded columbia double eagle tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
white lithium grease should be just fine for bolts, seatposts, stems etc. thicker stuff, bike specific or otherwise would be reccomended for moving parts like BB and headset bearings.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kimpo, S. Korea
Posts: 696
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix Expert 09, Custom 2013 Bike Friday Pocket Rocket
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use anti-seize on my pedal threads. It holds up better than grease and makes removal easier since the act of pedaling will tend to tighten pedals over time. Grease on bolt threads is always a good idea. Also, remember, the left pedal is reverse thread -- turn clockwise to loosen -- while the right pedal is regular thread -- counterclockwise to loosen.
Edit: he also advised against a light layer of grease on my bottlecage screws saying they might work themselves out. That idea made a little sense though.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had some peals installed at my lbs yesterday. i left a can of anti-seize next to the bike and when i got back the apprentice (this guy is my bane) had put them on without using it. I told him I was wanting to brush some on and he told me it was a bad idea b/c it wasn't needed and it would make cleaning my bike harder (i don't know what he meant by that. Anyway, i use these guys a lot and they give me a discount on everything so I just let it go; but this guy is full of **** right? I know I've seen pedals stuck on cranks before.
Edit: he also advised against a light layer of grease on my bottlecage screws saying they might work themselves out. That idea made a little sense though.
Edit: he also advised against a light layer of grease on my bottlecage screws saying they might work themselves out. That idea made a little sense though.
The only place where I've seen thread locking fluid e.g. loctite recommended to be used are where the threads/bolts can't be tighted enough without the risk of stripping the thread in the nut. Jockey wheel axel bolts in the rear derailleur are an example.