"Sealed Bearing" hubs?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 661 Times
in
504 Posts
"Sealed Bearing" hubs?
I'm making a set of wheels for a tour this summer, with CR18s and 36 spokes. in the parts bin I have a set of LF Campy Record, the old Shimano 600 freewheel hubs with cup/cone bearings, and a set of Sunshine Gyromasters that take industrial made-up standardized bearings, with seals. These are all used hubs, and I'll be on a bike with 126 mm OLD and friction shifting. I'm NOT getting a new frame for this.
How important is it to have seals for bike hub bearings? For years I thought seals don't matter much, but I have had some nasty results from sand combined with rain and wind. Rebuilding hubs is not my preferred field activity.
How important is it to have seals for bike hub bearings? For years I thought seals don't matter much, but I have had some nasty results from sand combined with rain and wind. Rebuilding hubs is not my preferred field activity.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,437
Bikes: NOYB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I've never had to deal with sand, but plenty of water.
Seals make the amount of time between required overhauls quite a bit longer. That said, modern grease tends to hold up to contaminants better than the old stuff used to.
Experiences are going to vary by region, but I find that unsealed components hold up fine for at least a season after being rebuilt with quality grease. Especially if the bike has fenders. (Most do around here.)
Seals make the amount of time between required overhauls quite a bit longer. That said, modern grease tends to hold up to contaminants better than the old stuff used to.
Experiences are going to vary by region, but I find that unsealed components hold up fine for at least a season after being rebuilt with quality grease. Especially if the bike has fenders. (Most do around here.)
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times
in
1,404 Posts
I generally prefer standard (open) cup and cone designs because of the ease and low cost of maintenance. It's a few minutes to fieldstrip, check and if needed relube these hubs.
In my many miles experience as an all weather rider, I've found that the seals do a better job keeping water in than out. Moreover, if I have a reason to be concerned there's no simple way to check for water contamination.
That said, If you're not someone who does their own service, cartridge bearings may be more practical for you.
In my many miles experience as an all weather rider, I've found that the seals do a better job keeping water in than out. Moreover, if I have a reason to be concerned there's no simple way to check for water contamination.
That said, If you're not someone who does their own service, cartridge bearings may be more practical for you.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Posts: 12,257
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
shimano 600 hubs don't have the best of seals and it's really just this one piece of rubber that keeps it sealed.
the ones with the nice metal maze dust caps and rubber seals are on newer 105 and ultegra bits.
the ones with the nice metal maze dust caps and rubber seals are on newer 105 and ultegra bits.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#5
Senior Member
The seals on cup and cone hubs as well as the radial bearinged ones are basicly dust seals and not designed to keep out water. I think I would go with the shimano 600s. I do prefer freehubs because of the fact that the axle is cantarlevered too far out on the drive side of a freewheel hub. This leads to bending and breaking.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 661 Times
in
504 Posts
The seals on cup and cone hubs as well as the radial bearinged ones are basicly dust seals and not designed to keep out water. I think I would go with the shimano 600s. I do prefer freehubs because of the fact that the axle is cantarlevered too far out on the drive side of a freewheel hub. This leads to bending and breaking.
#7
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
18 Posts
Depends how heavy you are, how heavy the bike loaded is, and how much weight you're putting on the rear wheel. If you're a light rider, not loading anything on the rear and know how to ride - they're probably fine. Anything else and you're trading a gamble on reliability.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,663
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,538 Times
in
1,404 Posts
Either the Record or the Shimano 600s will serve you well. Folks have been racing, training and even doing loaded touring on these for years with no problems of reliability. Your real concern in making this decision is the availability of freewheels. If you have or can source a decent freewheel for your needs, go ahead and build the wheel with either of these classic (and classy) hubs.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,866
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 661 Times
in
504 Posts
Either the Record or the Shimano 600s will serve you well. Folks have been racing, training and even doing loaded touring on these for years with no problems of reliability. Your real concern in making this decision is the availability of freewheels. If you have or can source a decent freewheel for your needs, go ahead and build the wheel with either of these classic (and classy) hubs.
#10
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
18 Posts
Otherwise the complete aftermarket availability, or any availability of spare axles is completely superfluous. Come on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
djb
Bicycle Mechanics
69
02-08-14 05:27 AM
gaucho777
Classic & Vintage
11
05-15-12 02:19 PM
Nooch
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
3
07-20-11 06:53 PM