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Cane Creek120mm track hub on a

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Cane Creek120mm track hub on a

Old 01-27-10, 08:01 PM
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Cane Creek120mm track hub on a

126mm dropout.
80's Tesch S-22 steel road frame, proprietary Cane Creek Endurance track hub.
Obviously, trying to make this bike a fixed wheel.
I have the frame, not the wheel.
Can this work?
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Old 01-27-10, 08:52 PM
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yes, spacers.
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Old 01-27-10, 09:29 PM
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Thanks SS.

so here's an exploded view of the hub.
And if my little brain understands it.. From right to left, lock nut then the dropout, spacer, that middle thing pictured, sealed brg and finally the hub body, right?
Would a spacer basically be a washer or is it threaded?
Sorry man, I know nothing about fixed gear and I need to get this right.
Really want these wheels if this is doable.
And the website says they have a proprietary axle, I can't change that.

I've seen stays spread apart for a 9 speed cass. and all was fine.
Is squeezing together the 3mm per side a deal killer?
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Old 01-27-10, 09:47 PM
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You can't space jack crap with that hub.

Contrary to what post #2 says. Either jam the hub in there or cold set your frame down or get the proper 126mm hub, or one that can be converted to 126. There are plenty of those.
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Old 01-27-10, 09:48 PM
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That "spacer" is also a dirt shield for the bearing. I'd say it threads on but I don't see any wrench flats so perhaps it's just a slip on or friction fit. Any additional spacers you add would need to go onto the axle to the outside of that shield washer. They should also have the serrations on them to bite into the dropout a little. Also this appears to be the front hub. No need to shim that since it's universal. What about the rear diagram?

Another option would be to cold set the frame as per Sheldon Brown. His detailed instructions on his website leave little for misunderstanding.
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Old 01-27-10, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BCRider
That "spacer" is also a dirt shield for the bearing. I'd say it threads on but I don't see any wrench flats so perhaps it's just a slip on or friction fit. Any additional spacers you add would need to go onto the axle to the outside of that shield washer. They should also have the serrations on them to bite into the dropout a little. Also this appears to be the front hub. No need to shim that since it's universal. What about the rear diagram?

Another option would be to cold set the frame as per Sheldon Brown. His detailed instructions on his website leave little for misunderstanding.
That *is* the rear diagram.
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Old 01-28-10, 02:00 AM
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?

reason why you can't use three 1mm washers per side?
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Old 01-28-10, 07:50 PM
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Cold set.
Thats just crazy enough to work.
There's my plan B.

I'm getting those wheels!
Will update.
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Old 01-28-10, 09:42 PM
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you probably don't need spacers. The skewer can squeeze it together fine.
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Old 01-28-10, 10:25 PM
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I have a set of those hubs. They are great. I love them dearly. jim
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Old 01-28-10, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by awesomejack
you probably don't need spacers. The skewer can squeeze it together fine.
They're solid axle. And what soil sampler said can also work, if annoying. Respacing the hub, with the spacers between the locnuts, as per a proper job is not possible.
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Old 01-29-10, 08:54 AM
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The right solution if you plan to stay with 120mm hubs is to cold set the frame. You could also simply squeeze it with the nuts which would work fine but might be a PIA when mounting the wheels depending on the length of thread available and the stiffness of the stays.

Important Note-- Even if you decide not to cold set the stays, you still have to correct the parallelism of the dropouts for the 120mm width. Otherwise they'll be non-parallel when the hub is tight flexing the axle and increasing the bearing load. Improvise a compressing device to bring the stays in to the correct width then use a pair of dropout aligning tools to re-square them at this width.
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Old 01-29-10, 01:57 PM
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Makes sense.
Found a lbs with the alignment tools, we're good.
Waiting on the wheels.
Thanks guys
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