Pedal Repacking
 

I have a Wellgo MG-8 that is a little sticky on one of the pedals when I spin it and I want to repack it.

There is a inset nut that holds on the axle, I have searched but not found the right tool for this.

Anyone have any help?

thanks!

http://i47.tinypic.com/104i2rn.jpg

go here for how to do the pedals and for a list of tools you'll need. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=83

Thanks for trying, but thats how to install pedals not service bearings. I've already searched the Park Tools site.

I just use a deep socket.

A wrench with a deep socket will loosen it, but I would try squirting grease in with a syringe first. Tightening the bearing cones back up on cheap pedals like that is a pain.

Perhaps, but did you notice the tool used to do the inset nut you requested?

For pedal work, one of these is invaluable:

http://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=87&item=ST-3

But fair warning: Wellgo pedals basically are meant to toss in the trash. They are several tiers below MKS pedals in quality. But whatever pedal you choose - they will need an overhaul before using them. So having one of the above socket-tools is a must if you like pedals that don't self-destruct while in use.

This has been my experience. Take it or leave it - it serves me well.

The following missive was in response to an earlier query about MKS pedals that were grinding. It's a basic review of overhaul procedures that applies to most pedals with cups, cones, and loose ball-bearings:
____________________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________

The problem with them is you didn't open them up and clean them and grease them. A pedal-overhaul is needed before you put most new pedals - especially with loose bearings - on the bike and use them.

I hear this complaint all the time regards MKS pedals. And it's NOT your fault. Overhauling pedals is a dying art. One I'm trying to resurrect. Here's what you do:

Working over a bowl, and the pedals removed from the bike, gently pry off the dustcaps at the end of the axles.

Now take a Y-Wrench socket-wrench and, while holding the flat where you screw it into the crank-arm with a box-wrench or pedal-wrench, remove the locknut under the dustcap. Then remove the cone under that. The bearings will pour out - into the bowl if you remembered.

Gather all the balls - 1/8th inch - and let them soak in a solvent such as charcoal-lighter fluid. Don't smoke - yet.

Now clean the insides of the pedal, the cone, the locknut, etc. with a rag soaked in the solvent. Allow to dry/evaporate completely.

Apply good-quality grease to the races where the balls ride. And begin the slow, tedious process of placing the balls back into the races - starting on the side closest to the crank-arm. Needle-Nose Pliers, or tweezers, work well. Then insert the axle to hold the bearings in place and repeat placing the balls on the other race - furthest from the cranks.

Screw the cone down slowly to hold the bearings in place. This will take several, or more, attempts your first time out. You want them to have no play back & forth - but you don't want them tight (like they are now before you began). Then replace the lockring and torque it down firmly. As I said - this will take a few tries to get it so there is no play, or tightness. It requires finesse. The second time you overhaul a pedal is much easier. It's an art.

Now you should understand the principal and the goal. Go for it! Congratulations! You will be a true artisan of a dying art!

A few years back I wanted to relube and adjust a set of pedals. They were fine other than having been ridden a lot over a number of years. The socket needed for that case for the cone was a 10mm but the ones I had didn't fit. So I got a cheapie and ground down the outer diameter until it fit down into the pedal. With that I was able to pinch the locking nut down slightly then play the cone and locking nut back and forth until I was able to lock the locking nut down firmly at the right setting. A washer with a tooth that went into a groove in the shaft ensured that there was not much interaction between the cone and locking nut.

So get the socket you need out of a bargain bin and grind it down as required. Go slow, keep it cool with frequent water dips and check your work to ensure roundness often as you reduce the size to fit.

Put grease into that side and push it in with your thumb. Keep doing this until it comes out the other side. Replace the cap.

The pedals I rebuilt (MKS EZY) had a keyed washer between the locknut and race. The keytab got chewed off because the socket turned the washer along with the locknut, seems I'd pushed the socket a little too far into the pedal. Luckily I had an old pedal to cannabilize another keyed washer from. So watch it and don't put the socket in past the locknut.

Also helps to have a thin-wall/deep-well metric socket the right size.

This is very frustrating,

Every time I try to tighten down he lock nut I end up spinning the cone and therefore making it too tight, it's driving me bonkers.

should I initially set the cone too loose before putting on the lock nut?

Skateboarder's use a " T " handle'ed multi tool that has a 15,13 & 10mm, narrow shouldered socket on each end of the "T", this is use full on pedal service, and square tapered BB, ( nuts & Bolts)

I just repacked a Wellgo pedal, and while far from being an expert, I'm getting confident about it. Since the outer cone will "float" with the bearings when loose, I will spin the axle one direction or another to get the bearings adjusted right. Then I'll hold the axle steady with the pedal body while using the other hand to tighten the locknut. Seems to work so far.