Woo hoo! Built my first wheel!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Woo hoo! Built my first wheel!
I rebuilt an old Maillard/Rigida front wheel off my old Peugeot. Took me a bit over an hour. That wasn't hard at all.

#2
Senior Moment
Did you have a wheel truing stand or did you use the bike to true it ? What instruction book did you use ?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 640 Times
in
361 Posts
Oh dear! Now you've got the jones too. There's no cure so just go with it.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
good for you! rebuilding an old wheel is one of the best ways to learn.
although here I have some questions for you:
1. did you completely disassemble everything and then put it back together again humpty-dumpty style, or did you simply de-tension all the spokes and then bring the wheel back up into true and proper spoke tension?
2. if the took everything apart and then put it back together, did you make sure the spokes went into the spoke-holes in the same orientation (you'll see that the spoke leaves an imprint into the aluminum hub shell, unless of course your hub is steel) and did you use the spokes which had come off the inside flange, again the same way? If you're not careful on this count, you'll put new grooves in the hub flange (weakening it more than necessary) and you'll have to bend the spokes a different direction when they'd already "adjusted" to the position they were in from the first build. Neither of these is a deal-breaker though, especially for the front wheel.
although here I have some questions for you:
1. did you completely disassemble everything and then put it back together again humpty-dumpty style, or did you simply de-tension all the spokes and then bring the wheel back up into true and proper spoke tension?
2. if the took everything apart and then put it back together, did you make sure the spokes went into the spoke-holes in the same orientation (you'll see that the spoke leaves an imprint into the aluminum hub shell, unless of course your hub is steel) and did you use the spokes which had come off the inside flange, again the same way? If you're not careful on this count, you'll put new grooves in the hub flange (weakening it more than necessary) and you'll have to bend the spokes a different direction when they'd already "adjusted" to the position they were in from the first build. Neither of these is a deal-breaker though, especially for the front wheel.
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#7
Boomer
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 7,214
Bikes: Diamondback Clarity II frame homebuilt.
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16098 Post(s)
Liked 1,455 Times
in
1,063 Posts
Congratulations. Nothing feels as good as that first wheel.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
good for you! rebuilding an old wheel is one of the best ways to learn.
although here I have some questions for you:
1. did you completely disassemble everything and then put it back together again humpty-dumpty style, or did you simply de-tension all the spokes and then bring the wheel back up into true and proper spoke tension?
2. if the took everything apart and then put it back together, did you make sure the spokes went into the spoke-holes in the same orientation (you'll see that the spoke leaves an imprint into the aluminum hub shell, unless of course your hub is steel) and did you use the spokes which had come off the inside flange, again the same way? If you're not careful on this count, you'll put new grooves in the hub flange (weakening it more than necessary) and you'll have to bend the spokes a different direction when they'd already "adjusted" to the position they were in from the first build. Neither of these is a deal-breaker though, especially for the front wheel.
although here I have some questions for you:
1. did you completely disassemble everything and then put it back together again humpty-dumpty style, or did you simply de-tension all the spokes and then bring the wheel back up into true and proper spoke tension?
2. if the took everything apart and then put it back together, did you make sure the spokes went into the spoke-holes in the same orientation (you'll see that the spoke leaves an imprint into the aluminum hub shell, unless of course your hub is steel) and did you use the spokes which had come off the inside flange, again the same way? If you're not careful on this count, you'll put new grooves in the hub flange (weakening it more than necessary) and you'll have to bend the spokes a different direction when they'd already "adjusted" to the position they were in from the first build. Neither of these is a deal-breaker though, especially for the front wheel.
I haven't been able to ride it yet, though, because of problems with the rear wheel on the bike - my only "older" 126mm dropout one.
So the rear wheel is definitely next. Just not sure when I'll be ablt to get to it. The rear hub is fine, and the spokes and nipples are in pretty good shape. But the rim is a Wolber G2 (IIRC, I'm not going out to the garage just to check...) which is in great shape for being 10+ years old with lots of miles on it but seems to have extra high/deep sides that make getting a tire on or off without pinching the tube almost impossible. I trashed two tubes yesterday trying.
I don't recall which exact Shimano hub is on the rear wheel, but it sure would be nice to find a rim that I could at least use some of the 64 remaining 298mm spokes I have, since I got a box of 100 of those from eBikestop. And that'll leave me enough for another front wheel for one of my other bikes. Anyone know a rim/hub combination for a front wheel that uses 298mm spokes?

#9
wannabe
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 273
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Congrats on the successful attempt. I just ordered spokes for my first wheelbuild last week. FYI, I learned DT sells by 100/box and Wheelsmith by 50/box. I went with Wheelsmith.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
maybe I missed it somewhere, but I still don't know if you put the new spokes on your front wheel into the same orientation on the hub as the previous spokes?
If your rear hub is a standard Shimano, the dimensions are pretty typical between most Shimano hubs if I remember correctly.
Get a look at one of the spoke-length calculation databases, find the Effective Rim Diameter of your old rim, and find a new rim with the same E.R.D. if you want to know your options for keeping the same spokes.
If your rear hub is a standard Shimano, the dimensions are pretty typical between most Shimano hubs if I remember correctly.
Get a look at one of the spoke-length calculation databases, find the Effective Rim Diameter of your old rim, and find a new rim with the same E.R.D. if you want to know your options for keeping the same spokes.
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width