Clear Coating Road Bike Frame
03-10-10, 01:50 PM
#1
50/50 Road/eBike Commuter
Thread Starter
Just Repainted Frame. Getting Nicked Very Easily. Should I Clear Coat or ???
Hello all,
I'm repainting a frame for the first time. It's a vintage road frame w/ Reynolds 531 steel tubing. I cleaned everything up properly, let it dry, primed the whole frame (except decals), and then painted the color on. I followed the guidelines for environmental conditions. Today (well after specified total drying times) I started to remove the tape, plugs etc. I had on to protect parts I didn't want to paint, but I noticed that the paint was getting nicked very easily. I was barely handling the thing. I've gone over all the nicks with the color, so now I'd like to know what to do next. From what I've been reading, I suppose I should apply clear coat, correct? The color paint can suggests using Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Crystal Clear "for an even glossier finish". I don't have anything like this yet, so I want to pick up whatever will work best. This is for a bike that is used for regular commuting, including in the rain (though I usually use a different bike in the winter) so I'm after something that will be durable. I don't want to worry about it getting scratched easily either. It would be nice to get something in a can that I can spray on.
I know there have been some threads on this in the past, but chose to start a new one in case there is something new that is better.
Thanks for any advice.
Primer: Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Clean Metal White Clean Primer
Color: Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Cobalt Blue Metallic
Clear Coat / Other: ???
I'm repainting a frame for the first time. It's a vintage road frame w/ Reynolds 531 steel tubing. I cleaned everything up properly, let it dry, primed the whole frame (except decals), and then painted the color on. I followed the guidelines for environmental conditions. Today (well after specified total drying times) I started to remove the tape, plugs etc. I had on to protect parts I didn't want to paint, but I noticed that the paint was getting nicked very easily. I was barely handling the thing. I've gone over all the nicks with the color, so now I'd like to know what to do next. From what I've been reading, I suppose I should apply clear coat, correct? The color paint can suggests using Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Crystal Clear "for an even glossier finish". I don't have anything like this yet, so I want to pick up whatever will work best. This is for a bike that is used for regular commuting, including in the rain (though I usually use a different bike in the winter) so I'm after something that will be durable. I don't want to worry about it getting scratched easily either. It would be nice to get something in a can that I can spray on.
I know there have been some threads on this in the past, but chose to start a new one in case there is something new that is better.
Thanks for any advice.
Primer: Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Clean Metal White Clean Primer
Color: Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Cobalt Blue Metallic
Clear Coat / Other: ???
Last edited by kmcrawford111; 03-10-10 at 01:58 PM.
03-10-10, 03:07 PM
#2
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Hi... that paint needs to cure first and that will take maybe from 2 weeks to a few months. Thats the reason the paint gets nicks easily.
If you have money get ethane paint like car type of paint, thats the only paint that will stick and wont nick besides powder coating. where to get the paint? check out around your area for car paint products shops and ask them if they can mix 3 or 4 cans with the color u want. If the store is good they can mix and put the paint in a aerosol can w/o any problems. Regarding the primer there is a product called U-pol #5 that is a primer for car industry (15 bucks or so), get 2 of those. The paint it is base coat / clear coat so u'll need clear... get some ethane type of clear like u-pol #1, 2 of those and u are all set. Get 600 grit water sand paper and polish compound and u are all set.
If you are good painting (im not good at it) u might not need the sand paper niether the polish compound.
So clean it, prime it.. sand the imperfections a little bit... paint... paint again... clear coat... clear again... done. If you are good with spray paint u might not need to sand between coats (not my case) and have that painted maybe in 1 hour. The clear coat i mentioned dries to the touch and can be sanded maybe in 30 minutes. But next day for sure you will be able to put the bike together and no nicks no nothing like the other paint.
Use a mask this paint is way out there in toxicity
Have fun...
If you have money get ethane paint like car type of paint, thats the only paint that will stick and wont nick besides powder coating. where to get the paint? check out around your area for car paint products shops and ask them if they can mix 3 or 4 cans with the color u want. If the store is good they can mix and put the paint in a aerosol can w/o any problems. Regarding the primer there is a product called U-pol #5 that is a primer for car industry (15 bucks or so), get 2 of those. The paint it is base coat / clear coat so u'll need clear... get some ethane type of clear like u-pol #1, 2 of those and u are all set. Get 600 grit water sand paper and polish compound and u are all set.
If you are good painting (im not good at it) u might not need the sand paper niether the polish compound.
So clean it, prime it.. sand the imperfections a little bit... paint... paint again... clear coat... clear again... done. If you are good with spray paint u might not need to sand between coats (not my case) and have that painted maybe in 1 hour. The clear coat i mentioned dries to the touch and can be sanded maybe in 30 minutes. But next day for sure you will be able to put the bike together and no nicks no nothing like the other paint.
Use a mask this paint is way out there in toxicity
Have fun...
03-10-10, 05:20 PM
#3
Thrifty Bill
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Cure time is critical. That is one reason some of us just use a good powder coater instead. By the time you add up your supplies, and put some value to your time, powder coating can be pretty cheap.
How did you apply the paint? Rattlecan and durability are hard to get.
How did you apply the paint? Rattlecan and durability are hard to get.
03-11-10, 12:28 AM
#4
50/50 Road/eBike Commuter
Thread Starter
I applied with rattlecan. Now that I've already done all of this, is there something I can spray on as a final protective layer? Or might the paint I already have on be durable enough when it is fully cured? The metallic blue was listed on the can as being ideal for bikes...and I've been under the impression that Rust-Oleum is pretty good paint. I'm willing to wait quite a while if necessary for a full cure... one of the luxuries of having two bikes available.
Last edited by kmcrawford111; 03-11-10 at 12:33 AM.
03-11-10, 12:30 PM
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Curing time for that type of paint is maybe 6 months, are u wiling to wait that long? U can just buy rustoleum clear coat thats not a problem. It will hold? who knows. I'm telling you about this because i got the same problem that u had using the same paint and the way to go is with ethane type of paint, thats the only paint that will hold.
Second option that works because i had used it, is to get tamiya spray can paint. But u need a good primer like the one i mentioned, then use the tamiya next day. Once done with the paint leave the frame outside to gassed it out for a couple of days then apply a clear if you want.
There is another paint that is hard to get in spray can and apparently is pretty god, plutonium something. From what i heard u can get fast results with it.
Cheers
Second option that works because i had used it, is to get tamiya spray can paint. But u need a good primer like the one i mentioned, then use the tamiya next day. Once done with the paint leave the frame outside to gassed it out for a couple of days then apply a clear if you want.
There is another paint that is hard to get in spray can and apparently is pretty god, plutonium something. From what i heard u can get fast results with it.
Cheers
