Punks at Rockshox
 

They deleted all manuals for models older than 2000!!! Does anybody have the Sutherland's Rockshox manual and a scanner? If so, I need some info on the 1997 Judy SL.

never heard of RS to ever be "consumer friendly". I love my manitou's.

I know a little about them. What do you need to know??

My buddy has one an has never done any maintenance on it. I'd like to at least change the oil on it, but I don't want to without a manual. The owners manual would be cool to so I could show him how to use the adjuster knobs.

just because RS dosent have what u want dosent give you a right to call them punks, if your friend had a 1997 Marzocchi, would u call Marzocchi punks because they dont have the 1997 tech info on their site? you could probably call RS's tech phone number and amybe then could help

Go here: http://www.angryasian.com/ , and all your questions will be answered. Go to the fork maintainance link, chose the brand, then model and year, then click "get instructions".
Good luck!!;)

Coolio!

Klein, I don't think you can defend Rockshox on this one. A company that charges you $400 for a set of forks ought to have the decency to make their manuals available regardless of age. This happens in IT all the time and it's really frustrating. IBM and certain other companies ensure that everything they have ever done is on the website somewhere and it's a real boon, it's just being cheap and nasty to knock off 2 year old instructions to probably save a handful of bucks for their server space etc.

Just for the record, Rockshox, while defaulting on a several million dollar loan announced a merger (no one is saying it but I sounds more like a mercy/hostile takeover) with SRAM (the Gripshift-Sachs-Sedis company). Rockshox was on the ropes, you do funny things when things are that bad.

go dig on the posts at mtbr.com- you get alot of "ok product, but the service dept realy bent me over" or "rear shock busted, waiting month for replacement. no communication from rs" etc...

again, I love my maintous.

Hopefully the Customer Service side will improve with SRAM's buyout, they seem pretty good in that respect.

I don't really care for my Suntours :)

Richard

They also just had to pay Manitou a good chunk of change for patent infringement.

I love my Manitous and my Marzocchis.:beer:

Angry Asian didn't have the manual for the 97 SL, but he had some 96 stuff. I may just take the fork apart, as long I remember where everything goes it can't be that hard to change the oil.


I love my Manitou.

Thats funny I found it on there.

Wait I think I see the problem!

Chose the brand, then click on the "96 judy sl, xc, dh", it is a pull down menu.:crash:

A wholesaler called Bicycle Technologies International sells a retail-customer version of their catalog. It should cost you about $10. It contains good, clear exploded drawings of every fork that BTI stocks parts for which includes almost the whole production history of Rockshocks. Ask your local bike store if they can get you this catalog as it is a good information package for the money.

KevinG,
Do you know if the 96 and 97 models are similar?

Basic maintenance for '96 judy
Removing lower legs:

1) Loosen both shaft bolts (5mm head) three full turns (do not remove completely). Tap on the heads with a mallet to loosen the neutral shaft and cartridge. Remove bolts completely and remove the lower leg assembly (consists of two lower legs and the brace). Clean out the inside of the lower leg assembly with a rag (be sure not to miss the wiper seals!). Check to make sure the brace bolts are tight; if necessary, reinstall them with blue Loctite, one at a time, and torque to 60 in-lbs (be careful; magnesium strips very easily and is difficult to repair). Remove the fork boots and clean with soap and water.

2) Bushing replacement (if needed): sorry, kids, you need a bushing installer/puller for this one. However, should you decide to get your own, there are various kits available, ranging from about $50 to a couple hundred.

Either way, while you’re replacing bushings, press in TWO lower bushings in each leg instead of one. This will improve your fork's rigidity, but more importantly, it will also reduce the rate at which your fork wears. Your fork may be sticky at first after you put it back together, but don’t worry; it’ll break in. Trust me. Use the older steel bushings if possible.



3) Loosen the crown bolts and remove each of the stanchion assemblies.

If your fork has press-fit stanchions, leave the crown/steerer/ stanchion assembly on the bicycle unless you want to also overhaul your headset.

Back off the preload and remove the preload caps and MCU stacks. Remove each MCU individually and clean.

Inspect the MCU stacks; if they measure less than 6.75", then replace them either with another MCU stack or with a coil spring (progressive wind if possible).

Left leg service:


4) Using a pair of snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring located at the bottom of the left stanchion assembly (with damper; your fork may also have a wave washer under the snap-ring). Pull the damper cartridge out. Remove the shaft end plate and cartridge washer. Wipe down the inner and outer surfaces of the stanchion tube and all of the damper parts.


5) Check the condition of your damper by pumping the piston back and forth. Is it completely empty? Is your cartridge plastic? If so, consider replacing the cartridge with a current Rock Shox model or upgrading to an aftermarket cartridge or Englund air kit. Also, if you do decide to replace your cartridge, here is your chance to change your travel if you so desire (just remember to also purchase the corresponding neutral shaft assembly).

Rock Shox officially stated that their plastic cartridges are rebuildable and serviceable, but, by nature, they were notoriously prone to failure and were actually replaced by Rock Shox free of charge for some time. Cartridge overhaul instructions can be obtained from me by request, but I strongly urge you to not bother; rather, you should upgrade to a newer Rock Shox cartridge at the very least.

6) Reassemble the damper cartridge and reinsert it into the left stanchion. Reinstall the wave washer (if your fork had one) and snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Right leg service:

Note: Judy DH is equipped with a rebound damper cartridge in its right leg, rather than a neutral shaft. Right leg service for Judy DH is, therefore, identical to the left leg.

7) Remove the snap-ring at the bottom of the right leg. Remove and disassemble the neutral shaft assembly (pay attention to the parts order!!!). Wipe down the inner and outer surface of the stanchion and each of the neutral shaft parts.

8) Reassemble the neutral shaft assembly and reinstall it in the right stanchion. Reinstall the snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Final reassembly:

9) Carefully reinstall the lower leg assembly onto the stanchions (the wiper seals are easily damaged if not installed properly).

Be generous with the Slick Honey on the inner surface of the lowers, but do not put any on the outer surface of the stanchions. Be sure to lube the lower bushings, too.

Reinstall the shaft bolts (the hollow bolt, if you only have one, goes in the left leg) and torque to 60 in-lbs. Slide the bottom of both fork boots into their corresponding grooves in the lower leg.

Basic maintenance for '97 Judy

Removing lower legs:

1) Loosen both shaft bolts (5mm head) three full turns (do not remove completely). Tap on the heads with a mallet to loosen the neutral shaft and cartridge. Remove bolts completely and remove the lower leg assembly. Clean out the inside of the lower leg assembly with a rag (be sure not to miss the wiper seals!). Remove the fork boots and clean with soap and water.

2) Bushing replacement (if needed): sorry, kids, you need a bushing installer/puller for this one. However, should you decide to get your own, there are various kits available, ranging from about $50 to a couple hundred.

Either way, while you’re replacing bushings, press in TWO lower bushings in each leg instead of one. This will improve your fork's rigidity, but more importantly, it will also reduce the rate at which your fork wears. Your fork may be sticky at first after you put it back together, but don’t worry; it’ll break in. Trust me. Use the older steel bushings if possible.

3) Loosen the crown bolts and remove each of the stanchion assemblies.

If your fork has press-fit stanchions, leave the crown/steerer/ stanchion assembly on the bicycle, unless you also want to overhaul your headset.

Back off the preload and remove the preload caps and spring stacks. Disassemble the spring stack and clean each part.

Inspect the MCUs and springs. Springs should be replaced if they measure less than 51mm, and MCUs should be replaced if they measure less than 100mm (for 63mm travel models) or 115mm (for 80mm travel models).

Left leg service:


4) Using a pair of snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-ring located at the bottom of the left stanchion assembly (with damper; your fork should also have a wave washer under the snap-ring). Pull the damper cartridge out. Remove the shaft end plate and cartridge washer. Wipe down the inner and outer surfaces of the stanchion tube and all of the damper parts.

5) Check the condition of your damper by pumping the piston back and forth. Is it completely, or even partially, empty? Rock Shox designs their cartridges to be serviceable if necessary, and instructions for doing so can be found here. However, if you frequently blow out cartridges, consider replacing it with a more current Rock Shox model, an aftermarket cartridge, or an Englund air kit.

Should you decide to replace your cartridge, keep in mind that this is an opportunity to alter your fork’s travel. Oil cartridges and Englund kits are both available in a variety of travels.

6) Reassemble the damper cartridge and reinsert it into the left stanchion. Reinstall the wave washer and snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown, if necessary, so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Right leg service:

Note: Judy DH is equipped with a red rebound damper cartridge in its right leg, rather than a neutral shaft. Right leg service for Judy DH is, therefore, identical to the left leg.

7) Remove the snap-ring at the bottom of the right leg. Remove and disassemble the neutral shaft assembly (pay attention to the parts order!!!). Wipe down the inner and outer surface of the stanchion and each of the neutral shaft parts.

8) Reassemble the neutral shaft assembly and reinstall it in the right stanchion. Reinstall the snap ring (the sharper outside edge faces out, and be sure it is fully seated in its groove!). Reassemble the spring stack and preload cap and reinstall in the stanchion. Reinstall the stanchion assembly into the fork crown, if necessary, so that the stanchion tube extends 1mm above the surface of the crown. Apply blue Loctite to the threads and torque the crown bolts to 60 in-lbs. Slide the fork boot onto the stanchion.

Final reassembly:

9) Carefully reinstall the lower leg assembly onto the stanchions (the wiper seals are easily damaged if not installed properly).

Be generous with the Slick Honey on the inner surface of the lowers, but do not put any on the outer surface of the stanchions. Be sure to lube the lower bushings, too.

Reinstall the shaft bolts (the hollow bolt, if you only have one, goes in the left leg) and torque to 60 in-lbs. Slide the bottom of both fork boots over the outer lip of the wiper seals.

Was that at Angry Asian???

Yep it sure was.:beer:

crap...Just make me look like a foo...go on!!!

"I pity da foo" :lol:

(I couldn't resist)

Did you see this post I made about your trouble finding the '97 models??