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If only someone would think to include these instructions with a patch kit!:rolleyes:
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The patch kit I saw at walmart, the bell one, only had three steps I think. Rough up tube or patch with the included scraper. Apply glue. Apply patch.
hence the thread. but its cool |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 10658097)
Lighting the glue on fire may have been standard operating procedure but there may be several reasons for doing it.
1. The glue formulation in the 50's and 60's was different. 2. 'My Daddy did it that way.' 3. 'Joe down at the station does it that way and he's an expert.' 4. People are in a hurry. 5. People don't know **** about chemistry:rolleyes: The previous 4 explanations...and many, many others...are nicely summarized by #5 in the above list;) cold vulcanizing stuff works just fine. (and there's no glue on the patch. The layer on the tube is quite enough. ) |
Originally Posted by mjoekingz28
(Post 10645766)
ok, but I don't understand how the patch would then stick since the glue is already dry?
huh It reminds me a little of "chemical welding" cement that is use for bonding some types of plastics, like acrylics and, I think, PVC pipe, except you don't let them dry first. |
FIRE!
Yes, that was routine when I was growing up. Made patching tubes a lot of fun ... you know, kids and matches, and you could it right in front of Mom. I don't fire them off now, though. When I patch tubes in my shop, I finish up by putting the patch in a clamp for a minute or so. That sucker's on there! Also, good glue makes a difference. I bought a small tub of stuff -- "Vulcanizing Fluid" -- from Rema, along with 100 of their Tip-Top patches -- bring on the glass! |
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