Well, I think I got ripped off on this bike. (PICS) Need recommendations.
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Well, I think I got ripped off on this bike. (PICS) Need recommendations.
Problem solved. Thanks.
Last edited by stephen9666; 12-24-16 at 08:08 AM.
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Price seems about right for the work, can you find a used wheel somewhere?
OT here, but given the problem I had with a pawn shop (in possession of something stolen from me and almost a free ride to jail) I would never give them a penny. Their prime source of goods seem to be from thieves and drug addicts.
OT here, but given the problem I had with a pawn shop (in possession of something stolen from me and almost a free ride to jail) I would never give them a penny. Their prime source of goods seem to be from thieves and drug addicts.
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You bought it, caveat emptor. Why would it be a ripoff from a pawn shop? A bike shop, yes, pawn shop, no. Bike shop quote for all included sounds quite reasonable. You might find a cheaper wheel, source your own cassette and tune it yourself to save $. Is that a 130 spacing on that or 135?
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I knew the rear wheel had been replaced, but I didn't look closely at it. The original wheel must have been stolen or damaged, and someone put this cheap 5-speed cassette wheel on. It has the wrong hub spacing and will need to be replaced. LBS quoted me $200 for a new wheel, cassette, tire and tune up.
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#5
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Wheel ($71): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=5104
Cassette ($15): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=427276
Chain ($9.50): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=509914
Tire ($12): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=433203 (or something similar in a matching width to the front)
Less than $100 in parts and you are back in business and the bike is still a good deal. If you sell the current rear wheel, even for $20, you are doing even better.
Cassette ($15): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=427276
Chain ($9.50): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=509914
Tire ($12): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=433203 (or something similar in a matching width to the front)
Less than $100 in parts and you are back in business and the bike is still a good deal. If you sell the current rear wheel, even for $20, you are doing even better.
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Wheel ($71): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=5104
Cassette ($15): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=427276
Chain ($9.50): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=509914
Tire ($12): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=433203 (or something similar in a matching width to the front)
Less than $100 in parts and you are back in business and the bike is still a good deal. If you sell the current rear wheel, even for $20, you are doing even better.
Cassette ($15): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=427276
Chain ($9.50): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=509914
Tire ($12): https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=433203 (or something similar in a matching width to the front)
Less than $100 in parts and you are back in business and the bike is still a good deal. If you sell the current rear wheel, even for $20, you are doing even better.
but indeed, caveat empor, that wheel is obviously a replacement.
Last edited by cnnrmccloskey; 04-17-10 at 11:05 PM.
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i wonder how the shifting works on that bike, is it set up for 7 speed? if so you could replace the 5 with a 7 freewheel, some axle shims and ride off down the road. you might need to redish the wheel, because the spacer would be added to the non drive side.
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Do the brake pads even reach the rim?
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The rear wheel is not the match for the front wheel, surprise you didn't catch that one. The RD dropout is not straight but that might be because the wheel is a 126 mms wheel that has like 20 years old. I wouldnt even bother to fix if i was you. I would consider what Joe jack says and be done with the bike right away with a new rear wheel.
Or go to CL and buy a new set for maybe less than 50 bucks if you are lucky. Anybody knows if that bike originally is 130 or 135 mms on the back?
Or go to CL and buy a new set for maybe less than 50 bucks if you are lucky. Anybody knows if that bike originally is 130 or 135 mms on the back?
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You may have a better chance of exchanging the bike for a different bike. It does look like a 700c wheel in the rear.
#11
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
Anybody knows if that bike originally is 130 or 135 mms on the back?
And yes, my math skills at 12:30am do indeed suck as evidenced above.
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Check Nashbar, Performance and Jennson. A quick check at Nashbar shows a 24 spoke rear wheel for $70 and a Nashbar branded 8 speed hub for $20.
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Thanks for all the replies. I've done some looking at parts. I'm going to try to exchange it for another bike. They have 2 others I was considering that are both newer and in better condition. I wanted this one because it's an older Trek with the made in the USA frame, but it isn't worth the money to me to repair it unless I don't have another option.
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does it ride and shift OK? if so, forget about it. next year buy her a NEW bike ...
if she's still around and puts some decent miles on this one
if she's still around and puts some decent miles on this one
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+1 Swap it out. Check anything from a pawn shop closely. I look for bikes every day, and have yet to see a good deal on a used bike at a pawn shop. It might be possible.
I much prefer buying directly from the owner. Test ride it and inspect carefully.
I much prefer buying directly from the owner. Test ride it and inspect carefully.
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There are 8-speed freewheels available, https://www.bikepro.com/ad_copy/free_cass.html. One of those and a new axle should see you back on the road. There's still that tune-up though, and for an 8-speed freewheel the axle might not stand up for full-sized rider.
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I measured this rim and it appears to have a hub spacing around 120 mm. The original was 135 mm, so this rim is pinching the frame together significantly. That was clear when I removed the rear rim for inspection and had the bend the rear dropouts together to put the rim back. And it's not really rideable in it's current condition, it shifts poorly and flips the chain off the rear cassette. I think swapping it for another bike is the best choice. I'll be heading there today after work.
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Definitely. The angle of the dropout in the second pic is just nasty. Might want to advise the pawn shop to remove that rear wheel immediately so the frame doesn't get damaged (if it ain't already).
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There are 8-speed freewheels available, https://www.bikepro.com/ad_copy/free_cass.html. One of those and a new axle should see you back on the road. There's still that tune-up though, and for an 8-speed freewheel the axle might not stand up for full-sized rider.
stephen9666--good luck at the pawn shop!
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I still can't figure out how the OP thinks he got ripped off. He saw and handled the bike before he bought it - and bought it from someone who almost undoubtedly knows less about bikes than he does. This is all about buyer beware and nothing about being misled or "ripped off".
Hope it works out though, because, really, a bike with a wheel like that is almost next to worthless - replacing the wheel will cost more than the thing is worth. the best bet is to find a used wheel for free or next to nothing from a bike shop's "bone yard".
Hope it works out though, because, really, a bike with a wheel like that is almost next to worthless - replacing the wheel will cost more than the thing is worth. the best bet is to find a used wheel for free or next to nothing from a bike shop's "bone yard".
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I think he got an OK deal. even if a new wheel cost him 150 - 200 he still got a great bike for 330
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