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nathant53 04-26-10 08:37 PM

Painting problems....
 
So,

I painted my rim black, I got the spray cans from OSH. I bought 1 primer, 1 black semi-gloss, and 1 clear.


I did 2 coats prime, 4 coats black paint, and 2 coat clear.

After it has been done. I used acholol cleaner to clean off all the dust/etc. Then I notice the paint is rubbing off..:mad:.

So my guess is that the paint I bought is crap.

I'm deciding to strip off the paint with paint thinner or something.

And repaint it with some good quality paint.


Questions...

What paint thinner should I use that won't hurt the rim. Or should I sand it down like before?

What brand of paint should I buy that won't F** up again? ***I also have a spray gun***

Do you suggest spraying with a gun or spray cans? ( What brand paint, I don't care about prices)




Thanks for your help

dabac 04-27-10 04:06 AM

If it's an aluminum rim you've just discovered that aluminum doesn't take paint well. To improve your chances of a result worth the effort you need to use an etching primer. If you're using a chromed steel rim I really haven't got anything to suggest apart from sanding the heck out of it.

Before you try again you obviously need to get rid of all the flaking paint, which would mean either a chemical stripper or sanding down to bare metal.

Assuming it is a metal rim you're talking about you can use whatever solvent you want w/o risk of hurting anything. You pretty much need to get way into serious acids before there's any risk for the rim.

Non-metal rim? Tell us!

Ex Pres 04-27-10 07:14 AM

Rim's not anodized, is it?

nathant53 04-27-10 07:50 PM


Originally Posted by Ex Pres (Post 10729639)
Rim's not anodized, is it?

No, When I frist got it, it was sprayed pretty bad. So I sanded to to bare metal and added primer,paint, clear.

Im guess is I didn't give it enough time to dry..Lol. Tell me if I did it wrong..

1st coat primer after sanding...

2nd coat primer in 20 mins.

1st coat paint within 1 hour.

2nd coat paint after 30mins of the frist hour

3rd coat paint after 45ish min

1 coat clear the next day

2nd coat after 20mins

Waited for 1 day..Then I started to clean it with acholol and was about to use it for a ride. THEN I notice the rubbing paint. >:\

Soo my guess is..I only waited 3 days to use my wheel again. Tell me im stupid..but was that foolish of me not to wait longer. =\

wesmamyke 04-27-10 10:20 PM

In my experience with spray paint it's usually not really dry for weeks if not months. Did the exact same thing to a frame, tried to spot clean where something bumped it while it was drying. Use a tack cloth to clean dust off after each coat and at the end.

If you have a spray gun and can afford it buy two part automotive paint. It dries way harder but you still can't mess with it for awhile. I was told by a professional that if stick your face right next to it and you can still smell paint at all it's not dry.

ultraman6970 04-28-10 01:36 AM

If you did this with Krylon paint it wont work, you need CAR PAINT, etching primer and primer for aluminum and sand that pretty good, take the rim off the wheel also. The excess or dust in the paint needed to be sanded with wet sandpaper. But anyhow, with krylon or any paint that is not car paint it wont hold even a week w/o having scratches because those ones need at least a month to cure.

GO to your car paint supplier over there ask for car paint in can (they can put the paint in spray cans for you), ask for black "base coat clear coat," look at the web for a color code from a black car and use that code. With the primers asks them for primer in cans for aluminum also or you will end up probably with half a gallon of primer and needing to buy a gun and a lot of stuff more like clear coat, reducer and hardener. Buy a mask, car paint is really toxic.

Good luck.

ps: sand the rims to the bare metal, secondly, black is the hardest color to paint because u cant hide imperfections with black.

wesmamyke 04-28-10 11:13 AM

I will second the advice to get a respirator if you go the route of real car paint. Absolutely necessary, and ventilation of the work space. If even just spray painting it's a very good idea.

ak_cowboy 04-28-10 11:29 AM

Make sure that it's fully cured before trying to clean it, is there any reason whey you waited 1 day between the top coat and the clear coat? I've done all my frames with Rustoleum and only have had issues peeling when trying to use Krylon at the same time. The two paints react and orange peel like no other mother.

ultraman6970 04-28-10 02:42 PM

The solution for orange peel is sanding but with lacquer coming from rattle cans i would even bother, the paint is really bad, and the curing take centuries, with real car paint you can sand next day w/o any problem even with the cheapo ones that are not even close to the expensive ones.

mtbikerinpa 04-28-10 04:12 PM

It is also important when using a base/clear process to have same brand/system because the thinners are unique and proprietary quite often. That goes for spray cans and automotive paint. Assuming the weather is warm and the rim is warm to the touch, the primer will be cold until it is dry. You can touch it before hand without leaving a finger print, but if it still feels cold than it is still evaporating. That is the method I use at work everyday since I work with primer continually and I can't be smelling it for dryness without some weird side-effects, ;)

It sounds like overall, the problem was lack of dry time. If you have reflectors off and tires off, you can aim a space heater (or similar heat source) at it to accelerate the cure. Usually enamels would be baked at 120-180 deg for about a half-hour in a production environment. Adjust accordingly.

nathant53 04-28-10 07:42 PM

Yeah, maybe if this time it fails. I'll just redo everything with car paint.

I sanded the imperfect spots and re sprayed a coat of black paint on it.

I'm guessing I should wait at least 2 days before spraying the clear coat on it?


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