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Wheel build parts quesitions

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Wheel build parts quesitions

Old 05-01-10, 07:30 AM
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bleedingapple
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Wheel build parts quesitions

So I have a question for those of you experienced in wheel building... I'm collecting parts for a new wheel set and want to know if you think it will be strong enough? I weigh around 250 and have ridden deep-vs in the past due to my busting wheels. I ride fixed and my current back wheel is some random 36 hole Alex rim and has held up surprisingly well. I also plan on riding some track on this new wheel set. I would rather not have deep-v rims if I dont need to. I have been looking at the velocity fusions as a happy medium.

My question is, if I were to go with the fusions (using double butted spokes) will I need to stay with the 36 hole or could I safely go down to 32 holes. From what I understand you can safely run 32 hole on the deep-v rims and 36 is super bomber. Also will I lose wheel stiffness by using the double butted spokes? Another question is would any of this work with Mavic Open pros (32 or 36 hole)? Or are they not suited for my size no matter what?

Thank you very much for your help.
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Old 05-01-10, 08:45 AM
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I weigh almost as much as you, but I also load my bike up with commuter gear.

I recently built a 32 spoke wheel with Mavic Open Pro, DT Compeition spokes, and a Deore XT hub. So far, it hasn't gone out of true.

I just built another with Phil Wood double butted spokes, an Open Pro rim, and a Shimano 105 hub. I haven't ridden that wheel yet.

I think that a big guy can go with 32 spokes provided the wheel is built with care, has a good rim, and good spokes. A few years back, I bought a 36 spoke Alex DA-22 wheelset after breaking spokes on the stock AT-450 that came with my bike. I thought that 36 spokes would solve my problems, but I still broke spokes on that wheel as well. I think because it was a poorly built wheel with cheap spokes on a mediocre rim.

I've also never had problems with SSFG wheels either. These include both 32 and 36 spoke wheels, factory built and hand-built by me.
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Old 05-01-10, 09:16 AM
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I agree that 32h will be OK, but given your weight, I'd opt for the extra 10% strength and stiffness 36h affords. For riders over the 185# design range of bike stuff going 36h makes lots of sense, and the only reason not to would be availability of rims and hubs.

Open pros are fine rims and you shouldn't have any problems at all, especially in 36h.

BTW- You might consider going 32h in front and 36h in the rear. It wasn't so long ago that the standard build configuration for a pair of wheels in England was 32h front, 40h rear, vs. the 36/36 used elsewhere. It's a shame that the concept of different spoke counts front and rear went out of style because it makes lots of sense.
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Old 05-01-10, 09:34 AM
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I weigh 230 (down from 260) and I've always ridden 32h wheels. I've used Open Pro rims before, but I don't prefer them. They're a fine rim; strong, stiff, reasonably light, but noisy. Something about them amplifies road noise when compared to the DT Swiss RR1.1 (now the R465) which is the same dimensions, but 30g heavier.
I like DT Champion 2.0 spokes rather than double butted. I feel less flex when standing and rocking the bike during a steep climb with a straight gauge wheel as opposed to butted spokes. The trade off is that the wheel feels harsher over rough pavement because the straight ga. spokes don't soak up much road chatter.
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Old 05-01-10, 10:40 PM
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Go with the 36. No reason not to. A few less spokes amounts to nothing when you factor the weight of the bike and engine together.
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Old 05-01-10, 10:57 PM
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as long as the spoke tension is even and not too high or too low a 32h fusion should work for you.

I think the fusion has a recommended range of 110kgf, maximum 120kgf spoke tension, but I'll have to double check that.
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Old 05-01-10, 11:05 PM
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If you don't have absolute pitch, a tension meter can aid you immensely.
just because the wheel is round and true, it does not make it evenly tensioned.
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Old 05-07-10, 01:34 AM
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36h rim with DT Champion 2.0mm spokes. If you have extensive wheelbuilding experience to compensate for the extra spoke twist, then go with 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes. Be sure to bring the spoke tension close to maximum due to the heavier load. Heavier V-shaped rim like the Mavic CXP33 will always be stronger than a boxed rim.
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Old 05-07-10, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by furballi View Post
If you have extensive wheelbuilding experience to compensate for the extra spoke twist, then go with 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes.
I am far from an extensively experienced wheelbuilder but I've never had major issues with 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes twisting all that much. 2.0/1.5/2.0 are another story. They take some patience.
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