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Just need a simple answer for my simpleton problem. (Quill Stem adapter.)

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Just need a simple answer for my simpleton problem. (Quill Stem adapter.)

Old 05-06-10, 04:41 PM
  #1  
cwesterfield
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Just need a simple answer for my simpleton problem. (Quill Stem adapter.)

I have wanted to build a bike for some time and don't have the money or the patience to do so right now. I have made peace with that and have bought the first decent 700c hybrid I could find (yard sale 1999 marin kentfield).

Now I want to build it up piece by piece with parts that can be swapped to a new frame once I can do this. The stage I am currently on is stem & handlebar.

As This bike has a threaded quill stem, I need to get an adapter. This is where I am having issue.

In the image, I have shown where I raised the quill by couple inches and measured the outer diameter of the shaft. It is roughly 21.9mm which doesn't fit anything (except maybe 22mm)

IMG_0482..jpg

My guess is no, but will a 1in to 1 1/8 inch adapter work? Am I measuring the wrong parts?
Here is a link to the adapter I was looking at.
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Old 05-06-10, 06:15 PM
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kaliayev
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If you have a 1" quill stem currently you will need a 22.2mm adapter. These come to fit standard or oversize stems.
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Old 05-08-10, 06:39 AM
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cwesterfield
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Where do I measure to determine if my stem is 1"?

Looking at the Sheldon Brown crib sheet, I can not discern what this thing is.

I have a cheap caliper that I've been using to measure this stuff, but 21.9 doesn't make good sense to me.
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Old 05-08-10, 07:21 AM
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1" means the threaded area -the outside diameter-is 1"- You should measure the thread diameter..

The inside diameter is 22.2/25.4=.875" or 7/8".

Your measurement 21.9 =.862" is close enough to .875 or 7/8" to mean you just have a slight measurement error.

You want a modern stem-clamp on-?? Is that correct?

It might be smarter to just use the quill stem you have, since you don't know if the better frame you will eventually buy will be 1" or 1 1/8".

Unthreaded fork tubes can be 1" or 1 1/8" outside diameter. You haven't bought your better frame, so you don't know what it will be.Most modern bikes-last 12 years-have 1 1/8" unthreaded fork steerer tubes with headsets that are not threaded on-they are held on by a cap on top and a star nut forced into the steerer tube.

Use what you have until you know what frame you will buy.
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Old 05-08-10, 07:22 AM
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When it comes to the interchangeability of bicycle parts there's rarely a simple answer, especially between bikes that fall into the time period of standards change. The 1 - 1 1/8" head tube switch. The dia. is often stamped on the quill portion of the stem.
Try removing the stem and cleaning off any grime to see if that is the case.

You can also research the brand/type of bike you have. This might afford you an answer.
https://www.roadcyclinguk.com/reviews...eld/22692.html 4th post down.

I think it's a safe bet you have a 1" stem.

good luck.
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Old 05-08-10, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cwesterfield View Post
My guess is no, but will a 1in to 1 1/8 inch adapter work? Am I measuring the wrong parts?
Here is a link to the adapter I was looking at.
The stem adapter you show is pretty short, as most are. This Velo Orange one offers much more height adjustment. https://www.velo-orange.com/vothstad.html Don't let a few extra dollars stop you.
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Old 05-08-10, 08:15 AM
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cwesterfield
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Info so far.

IMG_7195..JPG

Good information so far. I checked on the stem and all it says is the max height and "TAHOMA 95". No luck there I guess. I did some googling and see that tahoma apparently makes stems and such but can't find specs.

I like the extra lenght of the velo but I'm not sure of the chrome. I'm thinking maybe this instead.

I plan on starting a new thread about this eventually in the hybrid section, but I plan to use either a mountain frame or the cyclocross frame from Nashbar. But that is a ways away. But both use 1 1/8 forks. I am thinking a bit ahead.
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Old 05-08-10, 09:34 AM
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You're obsessing more than a little on this matter. The new frame will have a geometry that will end up being different enough that whatever stem and adapter you get now will very likely need to be switched when you fit the new bike to yourself. By all means swap the bars if you want but I'd suggest just use the stem that came with the bike unless you need to get a different one to size the present bike to fit yourself. Why spend a bunch of money on the quill adapter only to have the part be useless on the next frame? And since it's likely that you'll want to get a different stem that could be money wasted as well. And even then for any new build I'd want to go with one of the new spec 36.8 bars since they provide notably more stiffness to the feel of the bike when you're really torqueing on them. And fitting something like that to the Marin with an adapter would pretty much ruin the improvement due to all the flex of the quill joint fitment clearance you're seeing.

It'll be the same with the seat post. Instead of buying a good one now for the Marin and lock yourself into a size for your next frame option just leave the one in that is there now. Instead concentrate on parts that are easily switched over. Things like the wheels, crankset, bars and controls, maybe a nicer set of light fenders, saddle maybe the derrailleurs. These are all things that are not completely dependent on the frame and how it fits the rider so putting them onto the Marin and then moving them over later isn't a biggie.

The measurement discrepency you ran into will be very typical. Parts need to fit easily so there's a clearance given to allow them to be used from one brand to the next. The next stem or adapter you get may be a little bigger or smaller than the 21.9mm of this one. If the stem and the steer tube inside diameters were both 22.2mm you'd need a pretty big hammer to make things fit. Similarly I've seen some pretty wobbly fits of bottom brackets into the frame shell due to generous thread clearance.

I'd personally not bother doing a lot of the upgrades to the Marin even if you'll move them off later. Instead if it were me I'd tend to make what is there now work well by cleaning and lubing all the parts, replacing the housings and cables and only replace what is worn past saving. Along the way I MAY do a few upgrades to older but better quality components if I could find them cheaply enough to justify it. Doing things that way would do more to get you familiar with working on the deeper in parts of bikes and optimizing the fit and running of a bike. It would be excellent practice for your eventual build. And best of all you'd have the Marin as a spare bike or could sell it for a bit more than you paid just due to making it ride really well with the stock components.
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Old 08-09-21, 10:57 AM
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stem diameter

Noted that a user mentioned he had a 21.9 mm dia stem. and was wondering if this could be true. That size was used by very old French and Spanish bike frames.
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Old 08-09-21, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by palrider View Post
Noted that a user mentioned he had a 21.9 mm dia stem. and was wondering if this could be true. That size was used by very old French and Spanish bike frames.
You’ve been a member for a long time with not a lot of posts. You need to get a pass on posting to a very old thread.

I’m not questioning a 21.9mm stem on old French bikes, but this was a Marin hybrid and there is probably no possible way it has a French sized quill stem.

But thanks for the info.

John
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