Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Annoying click timed with pedal stroke

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Annoying click timed with pedal stroke

Old 05-09-10, 09:58 PM
  #1  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Annoying click timed with pedal stroke

I've got one devil of a click.

It is timed with each pedal stroke, and after disassembling the crank and BB (Tiagra 4500), the click will redevelop after about 10 miles of riding.

I have:

- Greased all chainring bolts.
- Greased all seals, threads, and interfaces on the pedals, crank, and crank fixing bolts/pinch bolts.
- Swapped pedals.

Nothing helps.

The click first appears when the right arm is under maximum load, or at the 4 o'clock position. After a few steady climbs and maybe 20 miles, the click develops into several clicks, most of which happen as the left arm goes over the top, but others while the left arm is under load.

The chain is a new 9 speed ultegra chain. The crank and bottom bracket are also new.

I have not had the BB shell faced. Measuring with digital calipers, the maximum variance in the shell width is 0.25 mm.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:05 PM
  #2  
RickB.
Senior Member
 
RickB.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 121

Bikes: '04 Cannondale R1000, Haluzak Horizon recumbent

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
seatpost/saddle clamp, stem faceplate bolts....
RickB. is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:15 PM
  #3  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Nope. Click is present, and more noticeable when standing on pedals. The handlebars are silent. It's definitely timed with the pedal stroke.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:20 PM
  #4  
Shimagnolo
Senior Member
 
Shimagnolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Zang's Spur, CO
Posts: 9,058
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3022 Post(s)
Liked 4,419 Times in 2,246 Posts
The strangest click I ever had, (timed with the pedals), turned out to be the saddle-bag rocking and tapping one of its buckles against a saddle rail.
Shimagnolo is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:29 PM
  #5  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No saddle back either. I've basically taken everything non-essential off the bike and still get the click.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:37 PM
  #6  
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,268

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 31 Posts
How many miles are on the bike ?

Thinking that if everything else has been checked that your bottom bracket might be on it's way out.

Swap that and see what happens... worst case scenario is that you still have the click and a spare bb.
Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 10:52 PM
  #7  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The bottom bracket is nearly brand new. It has 700 miles on it now, but has clicked since I installed it brand new.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-09-10, 11:21 PM
  #8  
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 11,736
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by DArthurBrown View Post
I have not had the BB shell faced. Measuring with digital calipers, the maximum variance in the shell width is 0.25 mm.
Assuming that your measurement techniques and instruments are correct, that's a MAJOR problem. Should be 0.10mm or less.

BB-spindle greased or dry?
How hard or easy was it to push the spindle through the BB?

Check this out: Bottom bracket clicking - options?
DannoXYZ is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:05 AM
  #9  
Cachequatch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Dimas, CA
Posts: 204
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
tighten up those chainring bolts
Cachequatch is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:25 AM
  #10  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm measuring chords across the bottom bracket shell (to keep the calipers perpendicular) at 90 degree intervals around the shell.

My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.

Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08

(I just re-measured to make sure.)

I'll also look into the teflon tape idea you posted in the other thread. The OP's description in that thread sounds extremely similar to my issue.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:28 AM
  #11  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Assuming that your measurement techniques and instruments are correct, that's a MAJOR problem. Should be 0.10mm or less.

BB-spindle greased or dry?
How hard or easy was it to push the spindle through the BB?

Check this out: Bottom bracket clicking - options?
The spindle went in easily, but not too easily, just as it should. I was able to press it in place by hand with little effort. The spindle is greased.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 06:29 AM
  #12  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,079

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 147 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3196 Post(s)
Liked 2,505 Times in 1,473 Posts
Have you tried a different set of pedals to further isolate where the noise is coming from?
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 09:55 AM
  #13  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yep. It's not the pedals.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 11:47 AM
  #14  
ClarkinHawaii
Senior Member
 
ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wahiawa. Oahu
Posts: 1,701
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I haven't read this through completely so don't know if it applies, but my annoying click with Hollowtech II external bearings was caused by the bearing adjustment being too loose. It's supposed to be finger tight plus a bit but not too much, etc. I just had it a tad too loose.
ClarkinHawaii is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:15 PM
  #15  
DannoXYZ 
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 11,736
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by DArthurBrown View Post
I'm measuring chords across the bottom bracket shell (to keep the calipers perpendicular) at 90 degree intervals around the shell.

My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.

Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08

(I just re-measured to make sure.)
That really is a concern. You may end up with a twist in the spindle and unevenly loaded bearings. I would have the BB-shell faced to get the surfaces as parallel as possible. Is there paint on the outside surface of the BB-shell?
DannoXYZ is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:41 PM
  #16  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The bike went to the shop this morning to get faced--hopefully will have it tonight to try the teflon tape and get it sorted out. There is paint on the outside surface of the shell. The bike is a 2008 steel frame that originally came with a square taper cartridge bottom bracket.

I gave the shop those numbers and they recommended facing it down to 67.75 mm, as that should still be wide enough to avoid using a 1 mm shim.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 12:43 PM
  #17  
dstrong 
Senior Member
 
dstrong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Awesome, Austin, TX
Posts: 4,221

Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times in 50 Posts
So Danno....should this be a concern?

I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.
__________________

2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)

dstrong is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 03:10 PM
  #18  
Springgrove
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Check for cracks in the rear rim near the drive-side nipples. Had a problem like this and finally noticed nipple starting to pull through.
Springgrove is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 03:17 PM
  #19  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dstrong View Post
So Danno....should this be a concern?

I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.
Yeah, I've tried various bearing tensions with the adjusting/fixing bolt (the plastic cap) before tightening the pinch bolts to spec. That may affect how fast the click progresses, but it still develops in the same way. I am using a triple, which introduces that stupid spacer on the left side, but I don't think that is an issue.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 06:03 PM
  #20  
z90
Senior Member
 
z90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Path to Fredvana
Posts: 909

Bikes: Long Haul Trucker 2010 , Felt Z90 2008, Rans Rocket 2001, Specialized Hardrock 1989

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I had a similar issue with my old Hard Rock. I could not figure it out, checked the pedals, bottom bracket, chain. I finally decided to take it to the shop, and was cleaning around the rear derailleur before taking it in when I discovered the break between the chainstay and the rear drop out
RIP faithful Hard Rock. I hope that's not what's going on with yours.
z90 is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 08:56 PM
  #21  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I don't think it's a frame or static part issue, because after fussing with the crank/BB for a bit, it'll get better for about 10 miles before it starts clicking again.

I got the bike back from the shop after getting it faced. The BB cups definitely felt more properly seated when I installed them. I also used the teflon tape idea Danno mentioned in a previous thread. We'll see if any of it helps.
DArthurBrown is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 10:48 PM
  #22  
furballi
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 919
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Problem should go away if the BB are fully seated and torqued. Your clue is the noise after the 10 miles ride after installing the BB.
furballi is offline  
Old 05-10-10, 11:22 PM
  #23  
jputnam
Senior Member
 
jputnam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Pacific, WA
Posts: 1,260

Bikes: Custom 531ST touring, Bilenky Viewpoint, Bianchi Milano, vintage Condor racer

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Things that have made that sort of clicking in my experience:

BB shell brazing going bad around the downtube
BB cup fretting against the shell because the threads weren't perfectly square with the shell face
Small fatigue crack spreading through saddle clamp, flexed with every pedal stroke
Shoelace aglet tapping against the crank arm on every revolution
Fatigue crack spreading in the cleat mounting plate of my shoe
jputnam is offline  
Old 05-11-10, 07:49 AM
  #24  
Shimagnolo
Senior Member
 
Shimagnolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Zang's Spur, CO
Posts: 9,058
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3022 Post(s)
Liked 4,419 Times in 2,246 Posts
Originally Posted by jputnam View Post
Shoelace aglet tapping against the crank arm on every revolution
I've experienced that as well.
Also once had a tapping that turned out to be the zipper pull on my jersey tapping the zipper.
Shimagnolo is offline  
Old 05-11-10, 03:22 PM
  #25  
DArthurBrown
Chasing the horizon.
Thread Starter
 
DArthurBrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 499

Bikes: 2016 Felt F75, 2008 Mercier Corvus Steel, 2006 Trek 4300, 1985 Trek 620 (modernized)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shimagnolo View Post
I've experienced that as well.
Also once had a tapping that turned out to be the zipper pull on my jersey tapping the zipper.
Guh. I had that one as well. I've also had a chirp that occurred only while taking one particular corner at high speed. The chirping was timed with the pedal stroke. It had me in knots trying to figure it out. It turned out to be a bird in a tree by that corner.
DArthurBrown is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.