Annoying click timed with pedal stroke
#1
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Annoying click timed with pedal stroke
I've got one devil of a click.
It is timed with each pedal stroke, and after disassembling the crank and BB (Tiagra 4500), the click will redevelop after about 10 miles of riding.
I have:
- Greased all chainring bolts.
- Greased all seals, threads, and interfaces on the pedals, crank, and crank fixing bolts/pinch bolts.
- Swapped pedals.
Nothing helps.
The click first appears when the right arm is under maximum load, or at the 4 o'clock position. After a few steady climbs and maybe 20 miles, the click develops into several clicks, most of which happen as the left arm goes over the top, but others while the left arm is under load.
The chain is a new 9 speed ultegra chain. The crank and bottom bracket are also new.
I have not had the BB shell faced. Measuring with digital calipers, the maximum variance in the shell width is 0.25 mm.
It is timed with each pedal stroke, and after disassembling the crank and BB (Tiagra 4500), the click will redevelop after about 10 miles of riding.
I have:
- Greased all chainring bolts.
- Greased all seals, threads, and interfaces on the pedals, crank, and crank fixing bolts/pinch bolts.
- Swapped pedals.
Nothing helps.
The click first appears when the right arm is under maximum load, or at the 4 o'clock position. After a few steady climbs and maybe 20 miles, the click develops into several clicks, most of which happen as the left arm goes over the top, but others while the left arm is under load.
The chain is a new 9 speed ultegra chain. The crank and bottom bracket are also new.
I have not had the BB shell faced. Measuring with digital calipers, the maximum variance in the shell width is 0.25 mm.
#3
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Nope. Click is present, and more noticeable when standing on pedals. The handlebars are silent. It's definitely timed with the pedal stroke.
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The strangest click I ever had, (timed with the pedals), turned out to be the saddle-bag rocking and tapping one of its buckles against a saddle rail.

#5
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No saddle back either. I've basically taken everything non-essential off the bike and still get the click.
#6
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
How many miles are on the bike ?
Thinking that if everything else has been checked that your bottom bracket might be on it's way out.
Swap that and see what happens... worst case scenario is that you still have the click and a spare bb.
Thinking that if everything else has been checked that your bottom bracket might be on it's way out.
Swap that and see what happens... worst case scenario is that you still have the click and a spare bb.
#7
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The bottom bracket is nearly brand new. It has 700 miles on it now, but has clicked since I installed it brand new.
#8
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BB-spindle greased or dry?
How hard or easy was it to push the spindle through the BB?
Check this out: Bottom bracket clicking - options?
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I'm measuring chords across the bottom bracket shell (to keep the calipers perpendicular) at 90 degree intervals around the shell.
My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.
Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08
(I just re-measured to make sure.)
I'll also look into the teflon tape idea you posted in the other thread. The OP's description in that thread sounds extremely similar to my issue.
My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.
Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08
(I just re-measured to make sure.)
I'll also look into the teflon tape idea you posted in the other thread. The OP's description in that thread sounds extremely similar to my issue.
#11
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Assuming that your measurement techniques and instruments are correct, that's a MAJOR problem. Should be 0.10mm or less.
BB-spindle greased or dry?
How hard or easy was it to push the spindle through the BB?
Check this out: Bottom bracket clicking - options?
BB-spindle greased or dry?
How hard or easy was it to push the spindle through the BB?
Check this out: Bottom bracket clicking - options?
#12
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Have you tried a different set of pedals to further isolate where the noise is coming from?
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Yep. It's not the pedals.
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I haven't read this through completely so don't know if it applies, but my annoying click with Hollowtech II external bearings was caused by the bearing adjustment being too loose. It's supposed to be finger tight plus a bit but not too much, etc. I just had it a tad too loose.
#15
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I'm measuring chords across the bottom bracket shell (to keep the calipers perpendicular) at 90 degree intervals around the shell.
My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.
Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08
(I just re-measured to make sure.)
My measurements should be accurate to within 0.02 mm.
Front of shell: 68.09 mm
Back of shell: 67.84
Top of shell: 67.83
Bottom of shell: 68.08
(I just re-measured to make sure.)
#16
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The bike went to the shop this morning to get faced--hopefully will have it tonight to try the teflon tape and get it sorted out. There is paint on the outside surface of the shell. The bike is a 2008 steel frame that originally came with a square taper cartridge bottom bracket.
I gave the shop those numbers and they recommended facing it down to 67.75 mm, as that should still be wide enough to avoid using a 1 mm shim.
I gave the shop those numbers and they recommended facing it down to 67.75 mm, as that should still be wide enough to avoid using a 1 mm shim.
#17
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So Danno....should this be a concern?
I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.

I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.
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#19
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So Danno....should this be a concern?
I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.

I fixed a click recently by re-tightening the left side crank on my external BB. It was clicking under load and driving my crazy. There was about 1/8 inch play and once I snugged it up, everything got quiet again. Sounds like you've already done the BB thing so not sure what else.
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I had a similar issue with my old Hard Rock. I could not figure it out, checked the pedals, bottom bracket, chain. I finally decided to take it to the shop, and was cleaning around the rear derailleur before taking it in when I discovered the break between the chainstay and the rear drop out 
RIP faithful Hard Rock. I hope that's not what's going on with yours.

RIP faithful Hard Rock. I hope that's not what's going on with yours.
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I don't think it's a frame or static part issue, because after fussing with the crank/BB for a bit, it'll get better for about 10 miles before it starts clicking again.
I got the bike back from the shop after getting it faced. The BB cups definitely felt more properly seated when I installed them. I also used the teflon tape idea Danno mentioned in a previous thread. We'll see if any of it helps.
I got the bike back from the shop after getting it faced. The BB cups definitely felt more properly seated when I installed them. I also used the teflon tape idea Danno mentioned in a previous thread. We'll see if any of it helps.
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Things that have made that sort of clicking in my experience:
BB shell brazing going bad around the downtube
BB cup fretting against the shell because the threads weren't perfectly square with the shell face
Small fatigue crack spreading through saddle clamp, flexed with every pedal stroke
Shoelace aglet tapping against the crank arm on every revolution
Fatigue crack spreading in the cleat mounting plate of my shoe
BB shell brazing going bad around the downtube
BB cup fretting against the shell because the threads weren't perfectly square with the shell face
Small fatigue crack spreading through saddle clamp, flexed with every pedal stroke
Shoelace aglet tapping against the crank arm on every revolution
Fatigue crack spreading in the cleat mounting plate of my shoe
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#25
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Guh. I had that one as well. I've also had a chirp that occurred only while taking one particular corner at high speed. The chirping was timed with the pedal stroke. It had me in knots trying to figure it out. It turned out to be a bird in a tree by that corner.