Spoke Length Problem
 

So I'm in the middle of wheel building and I find out that my spoke length calculations were wrong. LBS didn't carry odd length spokes so I rounded up. Now I know why I should've rounded down.

I've tighten down the spokes to the nipples all the way. Only if I had 2mm of extra threading, this thread would've never existed.

I'm looking for a simple solution. I was wondering what my options are which excludes replacing them.

Find someone with a threading machine? Seems too much of a hassle.

Would it be practical to throw in some washers between the nipple and the wall of the rim? I've never heard this done before nor have I seen washers for this. The only washers I was able to search for were called "spoke washers" which seem to be used between the spoke head and hub flanges.

Suggestions?

Best solution is probably go to other LBS's in town to see if they have the correct length spokes.

Yeah, I would replace them with 288mm. But looking for alternatives ways with what i've got now.

My simple solution is same as Vixtor. Use spokes the correct length.

There is no fix besides the right length spoke. If you know someone with a Phil machine the spokes can be cut and threaded, otherwise it's buy new.

BTW- generally same brand spoke and nipple combinations allow for the spoke to go 2mm or so beyond the top of the nipple. Rounding up would only be 1-1.5mm and shouldn't have been a problem. I suggest you revisit your spoke length calculation, and check to see why you came up so long.

+1

How much extra threading is there on a 14mm versus a 12mm nipple?

I have 14mm DT Swiss nipples.

Right now, my spokes don't stick out of the head of the nipples.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7480/p1080202w.jpg

If I went and bought 12mm nipples instead of new spokes, this may solve my problem if I get at least 2mm of threading above nipple head.

From what I've been reading, threading is difference is about 1 or 2mm. So which is it for DT Swiss spokes and nipples?

You might get another 2mm if the nipples had the same length of unthreaded section under the flats. You might also try different brands of nipples. I know that 12mm Wheelsmith spokes and nipples thread to about 2mm above the head, but I don't know if the spoke has a bit more thread or the nipple a bit less.

BTW- I don't know if DT switched nipple suppliers, but that definitely is not an old DT nipple which had a broad conical head, as opposed to the button shaped head here.

Ok Thanks FB. I will go hunt for some 12mm nipples around town which will give me at least 1.5mm above head.

Just out of curiosity, do head spoke washers effect spoke length?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7...andNipples.jpg

Bring some spokes with you so you can test the actual fit, and thread engagement, it varies by brand.

No, spoke head washers are only to compensate for the difference between the "L" section under the head and the thickness of the flange. They're used, for example when using spokes made for alloy flange hubs on thinner steel hub flanges. They provide better support of the elvow by keeping it against the flange, but don't materially affect spoke length.

This is why rounding down is always the better idea.

It's not really the approved thing to do, but yes, it works. I've done it on two occasions. Once I used extra wide washers to prevent nipples pulling through in a dodgy single-wall rim, the other time it was to get just a little extra tension in before bottoming out.
But as it isn't the done thing, don't expect to find a special washer for it available from any LBS. Head over to the nearest hardware store instead, ask for washers for M4 screws, or for the most common size of pop-rivets.
Even better, bring a nipple and check for fit.

I found out that DT Swiss spokes and DT Swiss 12mm nipples have about 1.25mm of spoke sticking out from the nipple head.

I will first try to find nipples which allow greater protrusion ( others say they get about 2mm of spoke sticking out but those were only estimates )

I believe the 12mm nipples should work according to the calculations. If not, I will try the washers.

http://www.tikproducts.co.uk/ekmps/s...00--1715-p.jpg M4 Spring Washers.

I got Mavic Open pro rims which seem to have strong double eyelets. So I don't think having washers between the nipples and the eyelets will effect the integrity of the wheel.

dabac, I think I will bring the nipple and the rim if I do plan on getting washers.

Use flat washers, not spring lockwashers.