Broken rear axel. Yikes. Also, help!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Broken rear axel. Yikes. Also, help!
Hello everyone. So I took my bike to my lbs a while back because I had a broken spoke on my rear wheel which I assumed was causing the wheel to wobble. Turns out though, it is both a broken spoke as well as a fissured axel. The lbs quoted me at well over $100 to fix this. They said that since my wheel is older it is going to be hard to replace. My wheel set is 1990 ish shimano 105. So what do I do exactly? Does it make more sense to buy a whole new hub/wheel? or are these things actually easy to find? All I know is it has been almost a whole month, I am still quite broke, and I just want to get back on the bike I love riding. WadduIdo? thank you
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Backwoods of Ontario
Posts: 2,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you need someone to do the work, then it is likely that replacement will be cost effective. If you can do the work yourself, parts should be quite cheap. You will need a cassette tool, cone wrenches and a spoke wrench.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,219
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1564 Post(s)
Liked 610 Times
in
351 Posts
Need more information.
"Broken axle" says "freewheel rear hub" to me. On a freewheel hub the drive side bearing is too close to the center of the hub and can't support the axle as well as you'd like. Newer freehub designs relocate the bearing farther outboard and don't break axles so much. That would seem to say "bite the bullet and buy a whole new wheel." It's the "A" answer.
Unfortunately, it's never as neat as that. The age of your bike also suggests that it has 126 mm dropouts. A new factory wheel is going to be designed for 130 mm dropouts and for an 8-speed cassette. There are, of course, ways around both issues, but it does become more of a project.
If it was my bike and I had budget restraints, I'd rebuild what you have. Overhaul your hub with a new axle, replace the broken spoke, and check the tension on all of the spokes. That's not the most elegant repair but it's likely to be the cheapest. We're talking about a 20 year old bike. If the original axle lasted this long a replacement should get you by for a few more years.
"Broken axle" says "freewheel rear hub" to me. On a freewheel hub the drive side bearing is too close to the center of the hub and can't support the axle as well as you'd like. Newer freehub designs relocate the bearing farther outboard and don't break axles so much. That would seem to say "bite the bullet and buy a whole new wheel." It's the "A" answer.
Unfortunately, it's never as neat as that. The age of your bike also suggests that it has 126 mm dropouts. A new factory wheel is going to be designed for 130 mm dropouts and for an 8-speed cassette. There are, of course, ways around both issues, but it does become more of a project.
If it was my bike and I had budget restraints, I'd rebuild what you have. Overhaul your hub with a new axle, replace the broken spoke, and check the tension on all of the spokes. That's not the most elegant repair but it's likely to be the cheapest. We're talking about a 20 year old bike. If the original axle lasted this long a replacement should get you by for a few more years.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 3,474
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
23 Posts
But before you do anything listed previously...get the rear dropout alignments checked. Otherwise you might just break another perfectly good axle.
=8-)
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#6
New Old Stock
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SF Bay
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You are looking at less than $20 (retail) in parts to fix the wheel. I would suggest trying another shop because it shouldn't be more than 30min. labor.
#7
Riding the road to PARADISE...RIP
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 171
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
None of this is difficult to fix yourself, as long as you know how to repack your hubs and true a wheel (if you don't, these are good skills to have and not difficult to learn). Parts (axle, spoke, bearings, grease, possibly new cones) and tools (cone wrenches and spoke wrench) can be had for under half what that shop was quoting you.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for all the help. Looking online, I found the parts I need are quite reasonable indeed. Although I do not know how to true a wheel or fix a hub off-hand, these will be useful skills to learn for recurring repairs. Perfect time to educate myself. I should look at buying a toolkit for the job even though I was thinking of winging it with my fathers random selection of apparatuses and mechanisms. Thanks again.
#9
Senior Member
Thanks for all the help. Looking online, I found the parts I need are quite reasonable indeed. Although I do not know how to true a wheel or fix a hub off-hand, these will be useful skills to learn for recurring repairs. Perfect time to educate myself. I should look at buying a toolkit for the job even though I was thinking of winging it with my fathers random selection of apparatuses and mechanisms. Thanks again.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Irving, TX
Posts: 358
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've replaced axles lots of time on my wheels. It's a little messy but not that hard to do. It does require some specialized tools, grease, etc.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
[QUOTE=davidad;10859700]Get just the bike specific tools that you will need. Cone wrenches, a freewheel puller, and the proper spoke wrench. As you get more experience, get more tools.
Thats a much better way of going about it. Absolutely.
Thats a much better way of going about it. Absolutely.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,837
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 580 Post(s)
Liked 506 Times
in
389 Posts
+1. Absolutely essential after a broken axle. They may already have been misaligned causing the break although on the older freewheel hubs broken axles are not uncommon.
#13
Senior Member
Wheels mfg makes a variety of Shimano compatable axels and cones. There might be an alignment problem, but axels bend and break with heavy use, but the problem is more common in hubs designed for freewheels than those for cassettes.
#14
cycles per second
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,930
Bikes: Early 1980's Ishiwata 022 steel sport/touring, 1986 Vitus 979, 1988 DiamondBack Apex, 1997 Softride PowerWing 700, 2001 Trek OCLV 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 70 Times
in
48 Posts
It isn't hard and you can just replace it yourself. Shimano rear axles are M10x1. You can get one here https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=232051417642 A 130mm OLD Shimano hub (typically 8, 9, or 10sp but some 7sp road hubs are 130mm) needs a 141mm quick release axle and a 126mm OLD hub (6sp and most 7sp) needs a 137mm QR axle.
Since you will have the axle assembly apart, this would also be a good time to inspect the cones and look at replacing them if they are pitted.
I broke a rear axle on my 1986 Dura-Ace (freewheel) equipped bike a few years ago and I weigh only ~150lbs. But the bike/wheels had >100,000 miles on them (plus we have alot of potholes in MN
Since you will have the axle assembly apart, this would also be a good time to inspect the cones and look at replacing them if they are pitted.
I broke a rear axle on my 1986 Dura-Ace (freewheel) equipped bike a few years ago and I weigh only ~150lbs. But the bike/wheels had >100,000 miles on them (plus we have alot of potholes in MN

Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 05-25-10 at 12:50 PM.