Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  

Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-12-10, 12:30 PM   #1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Dyer, In
Bikes: K2 mod3, Haro 7.1, Schwinn Sprint
Posts: 33
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Tubular Mounting Question

I just mounted my first set of tubulars. Zipp 404's with Vittoria Corsa. The rear came out perfect. The front however is trued up, but there is a slight highspot. Is this something to be concerned about? Should I remove the tire and remount it??
Robjustice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-10, 12:59 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Posts: 35,069
Mentioned: 101 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3450 Post(s)
The high spot probably happened because you didn't stretch it evenly, either not stretching enough early on and pulling it hard at the end, or stretching hard at first and finding slack at the end (and wondering why folks seem to have problems. As to whether it's OK or not, is a matter of degree and location.

If it's near the valve, or a short bump sort of thing you feel as you ride, remount the tire, if it's a long gradual thing sort like a cam and isn't noticeable riding you can leave it alone.

Everyone has his own approach to mounting tubulars. I mount a partly inflated tire (1-2psi, or only enough to give it shape) using old fashioned mastic while it's still wet and slippery, which allows me to relocate the tire until I'm happy. Many of the current glues which need to be tacky aren't so friendly about shifting and equalizing the tire.

With practice you'll have a better feel for how to get a tire seated uniformly. It also varies by tire, so it's best to mount tires on a dry wheel (I have a 40 year old front just for this) in inflate the tire both to pre-stretch it, and to get a feel for how much you'll have to stretch it when mounting.

BTW- here's an old tubular tire trick. You can use the valve as an indicator of a shifting tire. If you mount with the valve perfectly straight and later notice it's angled, it means your tire has shifted, which is common riding in hills during hot weather. This only works if the valve hole in the rim is sloppy enough to allow the valve to move, so I ream the tire side of the rim slightly oversize for that purpose.
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-10, 05:05 PM   #3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,859
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Not something to be worry about, besides i havent seen a tubular that is 100 round ever if that makes you feel better.
ultraman6970 is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:12 AM.

  • Ask a Question
    get answers from real people!
Click to start entering your question.