Rear Axle Overtightened
I just received a new road bike that I bought online (no lectures please!). Overall I am very pleased with the bike, but the rear hub was making a strange squeal from the get go, but I thought it would break in and go away. I have put about 60 miles on it and it has not gone away and the wheel does not turn for very long when you spin it. I took it off and tried turning the axle by hand it and there was a lot of resistance. I figured that it was overtightened, so I undid the lock nut and backed off on the cone nut and retightened. It is better, but still not great. Could I have damaged the bearings that quickly?
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maybe, it would be hard to tell unless you opened it up and examined the state of the bearings and bearing races.
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Perhaps the wheel was built improperly? Or, a wheel that was returned was inadvertently put on your new bike? Either way, slap some poly lube in there and give it a whirl.
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Most hubs are over-tight from the factory. I finally checked my Sirrus that i bought in Sept (havnt put a lot of miles on it yet) and the hubs were adjusted rather tight. I correctly adjusted them and they are smooth as buttah now :)
You might want to take the bearings out, clean them and look over everything good. If the races are OK and the bearings are a bit odd looking (not evenly shiny) ball bearings are pretty cheap. |
Originally Posted by ttheroux
(Post 10957470)
so I undid the lock nut and backed off on the cone nut and retightened. It is better, but still not great. Could I have damaged the bearings that quickly?
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Yes you can ruin your hubs by overtightening and their life may have been shortened.
The cones go first. Back the drive side cone off and see if it's got little pits in it. If so, it needs replacing because once the crumbling starts, it's only going to get worse. What else can you do besides checking for damage, then assembling correctly? |
Yes, almost all hubs and often other bearings are too tight from the factory - often holds true even when a shop assembles it, as some assemblers are too lazy (or shops too tight) to adjust them, expecially the rear wheel. As noted, can't tell if you damaged them w/out looking. Don't assume any noise or mechanical problem will just go away. They usually get worse and more expensive with time.
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Originally Posted by nymtber
(Post 10957547)
Most hubs are over-tight from the factory.
Correctly adjusting hub bearings is one of the final assembly jobs of the LBS, or whoever sells the bike. Unfortunately many shops don't check or adjust hubs or bottom brackets during assembly. BTW- I doubt you caused any type of serious damage other than maybe some extra wear. Hub bearings are tolerant of some decent loads and the hub would have to have been very overtight to shave suffered much. |
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 10958668)
What kind of hub? Loose ball or cartridge bearings? These require different amounts of bearing-preload.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 10959133)
True. While top line hubs tend to be adjusted fairly spot on, mid-range and lower hubs tend to be overly tight. They do this because they don't want to take the time to dial it in perfectly and given a choice of too tight or too loose opt for tight because loose hubs are a problem for the production wheel building machinery used by their OEM customers.
Correctly adjusting hub bearings is one of the final assembly jobs of the LBS, or whoever sells the bike. Unfortunately many shops don't check or adjust hubs or bottom brackets during assembly. BTW- I doubt you caused any type of serious damage other than maybe some extra wear. Hub bearings are tolerant of some decent loads and the hub would have to have been very overtight to shave suffered much. |
Originally Posted by ttheroux
(Post 10959531)
They are the loose all type. I would figure that you tighten them just enough to get out any play while still spinning freely.
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Replace balls and cones - not expensive. When doing final adjustment on non-drive side cone have QR skewer tightened on washers over the ends of the axle to put normal compression on the axle.
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Originally Posted by AndrewP
(Post 10959652)
Replace balls and cones - not expensive. When doing final adjustment on non-drive side cone have QR skewer tightened on washers over the ends of the axle to put normal compression on the axle.
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Originally Posted by ttheroux
(Post 10959553)
I did pull the axle apart and there was a small grove on the cones and what looked like some wear in one spot on some of the bearing. It gave me the impression that the bearing where not rolling as they should and that was the noise I was hearing. I think that I might just replace the bearings and cones to be safe.
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Originally Posted by vredstein
(Post 10961177)
Take a small sharp tool, maybe a very small flat head screwdriver, and lightly scratch it across the grove to determine whether it's just an initial discoloration on the cone, or whether it's indeed a groove that's worn into the metal.
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Originally Posted by AndrewP
(Post 10959652)
Replace balls and cones - not expensive. When doing final adjustment on non-drive side cone have QR skewer tightened on washers over the ends of the axle to put normal compression on the axle.
I use the washer trick too, but it's important to adjust the skewer to start to tighten at the halfway point of the lever's arc, then readjust when you install the wheel so it still tightens at the halfway point in its arc despite the different thickness of the dropout vs your washer. |
Originally Posted by vredstein
(Post 10961177)
Take a small sharp tool, maybe a very small flat head screwdriver, and lightly scratch it across the grove to determine whether it's just an initial discoloration on the cone, or whether it's indeed a groove that's worn into the metal.
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT
(Post 10958850)
Yes you can ruin your hubs by overtightening and their life may have been shortened.
The cones go first. Back the drive side cone off and see if it's got little pits in it. If so, it needs replacing because once the crumbling starts, it's only going to get worse. What else can you do besides checking for damage, then assembling correctly? |
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