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New tire not round

Old 06-19-10, 02:24 PM
  #1  
Jamesw2
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New tire not round

Anyone ever get a new tire and it's not round. i bought a 700 38 for my hybred and it has a spot about 4 inches long that seems about 1/16 to 3/32 lower that the rest of the tire. i had the wheel trued today.
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Old 06-19-10, 02:34 PM
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Assuming that the bead is properly seated all the way around the rim you may have a defective tire and should return it.
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Old 06-19-10, 03:32 PM
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It is not at all unusual to have a tire "dip" lower in one section if not properly mounted. What you need to do is look for the tire's "bead line," a raised ridge near the rim. that ridge should be the same distance from the rim all the way around on both sides. If it is (unlikely) the tire is defective. If it isn't then the person who trued your tire was careless in checking the tire after remounting and inflating after truing. Take it back and get it done right or add some soapy water or talc to the area after deflating the tire and carefully reinflate, making sure the bead line does not go too far away in any area. If only one are is low and the rest even then try overinflating by 20lbs or so. Deflate to normal after it pops into place.

Again, the preference is to take it back so the shop can correct it and get the feedback about being more careful.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-19-10 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 06-19-10, 03:51 PM
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Where's the low spot?

The inner tube has a thick spot adjacent to the valve stem. When that thick area gets caught under the tire bead, it makes a spot that's noticeably lower than the rest of the tire. That's fairly common. The solution is to deflate the tire, push the valve stem in toward the rim and reinflate the tire.
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Old 06-19-10, 04:13 PM
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I can see we better specify what is meant by "low spot." Does the tire go "into" the rim or "out" from it.
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Old 06-19-10, 04:20 PM
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If the tube wasn't in right, it usually causes a high spot, not a low spot.
New tire beads are sometimes slightly smaller than they should be and don't quite fit properly. Get some soapy water between the tire bead and the rim wall, then over-inflate the tube (I've had to go double the max pressure before) to make it pop into place properly. Sometimes coaxing it up by twisting the tread over with the palms of your hands is needed. Once it's on properly (you'll know - it makes a great noise and seats evenly all the way around) carefully deflate it to max recommended pressure and leave it be. Given time, the bead will stretch out slightly and be easy to remove and install from that time forward.
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Old 06-21-10, 03:02 PM
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Ok Thanks for the advice. and sorry for this legal document that follows

When I took the Globe to a new LBS, on Sat, after my ride I ask some general questions. Like do you have a price list for repairs and how much does it cost to true a wheel ,
They had no price list for repairs and the counter girl said $6.00 to true a wheel. Ok I said ,can you true a wheel while I waite today? Yes if you have the wheel. I had put a few new nipples on the rim and trued it myself but also put a new tire on. So my delema was is it the tire or the wheel. I trued the wheel, while on the bike, with the tire on the rim not knowing how to properly true a rim. I will be watching You Tube vidoes today.

I had just finished a ride so I had had the bike in the car and i removed the wheel from the bike but did not remove the tire. The repair man put the wheel in the trueing jig and trued it with the tire on. I tried to tell them about the low spot. As he trued the wheel I went out to the car to get some change because the repair man said it would be eight dollars. I met the repair man going out the door saying the wheel was done. Aparently the lady and children waiting outside the LBS were his. They offered no explanation for the tire and no comments they just charged me six dollars.

I called back later that day and the person i spoke to was suprised that the tire was not taken off the wheel for trueing

I do run a new thorn resistant tube

I will reset the tire today check to see if the bead is even.
Not low at the valve stem.
Tire goes into the rim
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Old 06-21-10, 03:50 PM
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$6.00? - sometimes you get what you pay for, and in this case probably less than that. I wrenched many years ago, ending around '96 in shops, but even then $6.00 would have been low. A proper truing job at every shop I worked at a minimum included

- Checking and if necessary correcting bearing adjustment
- Replacing any rounded spoke nipples
- Checking and correcting true, tension and dish (if cust requests AGAP only)
- Checking and correcting round (all others)
- If the tire is mounted inflating the tire to proper pressure with correct seating.

One cannot economically hold to those standards and charge $6.00, even if no bearing adjustment is needed, and a flat rate of $6.00 is an automatic red flag. One would need a flat rate of at least double that, and I never worked at a shop where we agreed with punishing conscientious cyclists by averaging their 5 minute trues in with the 20 minute "challenges."

Finally one should not leave a repair at a shop unless the repair ticket indicates your specific concerns (such as the tire) and then either in writing or in person the shop shows that those specific concerns were addressed.

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Old 06-21-10, 04:18 PM
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+1 $6 is nothing, can't expect a very thorough job.
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Old 06-22-10, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
$6.00? - sometimes you get what you pay for, and in this case probably less than that. I wrenched many years ago, ending around '96 in shops, but even then $6.00 would have been low. A proper truing job at every shop I worked at a minimum included

Finally one should not leave a repair at a shop unless the repair ticket indicates your specific concerns (such as the tire) and then either in writing or in person the shop shows that those specific concerns were addressed.
I thought it was odd price.
I did not get a repair ticket
I put 150 lb's of air in it and let it sit over night. Dip down to 1/16th.
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Old 06-22-10, 11:19 AM
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One bit of information I'm not seeing here is the tire type and cost.

Of all the tires I've bought and mounted only a few run concentric to the rim within better than 1/16 inch unless they are the skinny road bike tires in which case runouts of more like 1/32 inch to 1/16 are common. And that's even with a well seated bead. It's just the nature of bike tires to not be more accurately made in many cases.

Granted if I were paying $80 a tire for some fancy road stuff I'd expect a runout of no more than 1/32 inch. But I don't buy that sort of tire. I tend to the "happy middle of the road" class of tires. And at that price point some runout comes with most tires. Besides at the rotational speeds we ride at there's no need for anything more accurate. If you've got your runout down to 1/16 I'd set the pressure and ride it. You've got it centered better than it needs to be in any case and better than many tires will provide in this 38mm width size.

Last edited by BCRider; 06-22-10 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 06-23-10, 05:11 AM
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I think we can close this case
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