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Newbie in over his freewheel head

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Newbie in over his freewheel head

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Old 06-21-10, 08:55 PM
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Newbie in over his freewheel head

So I just got some new 700C wheels and put a 7 spd megarange freewheel on the back. 2 things happening. It's not shifting all the way down to the smallest cog which is probably just a quick adjustment to a screw and the other thing is when it gets to the 34tooth big ring the derailier sprocket is rubbing the freewheel sprocket. If I grab the deraileur by hand and pull it back it is fine. Is there a way I can make it go back all that way on it's own?

I feel really stupid asking this but how the hell do I get the old chain off? last time I did this, there was a clear master link that had a little clip that you popped off with a screwdriver and slid the chain apart. I don't seem to see one on here, is there a way that I just break this thing off? Finallyhow do I know if the spacing is okay on the back? this is an old steel frame and i just kinda pushed the dropouts ever so slightly wider to get the wheel to slide in but it kinda looks like the small sprocket may be awfully close to the chainstay. do I need to put some kind of washer on that side?

I know some of these are probably questions that have been asked before, I'm just struggling to find all the answers via search.
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Old 06-21-10, 11:26 PM
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Derrailleur chains are endless or have a special click together master link (SRAM makes those ones) The type with the locking clip is only for single speed or 3 speed hub chains. Assuming that your chain is a riveted together type you'll need to invest in a chain breaker tool.

If you just stuck the megarange freewheel on in place of a considerably smaller max size cluster then it's likely that you need to add some links onto the chain to avoid it locking up solid and busting something. Either that or religiously avoid selecting the megarange cog at the rear while on the big ring up front.

Pushing the droputs a hair to install the wheel is fine. And no need for a washer (actually an adjustment to the spacer stack on the axle) unless the cassette or chain is actually rubbing.

You can play with the limit screws and cable on the derrailleur to adjust the throw to reach all the gears. Hopefully your cassette has the same number of gears that your shifter is setup to handle or you're in trouble.

For a guide to doing some of these things you can go to www.parktool.com/repair . Hover your mouse over the part you want to read about and click away.
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Old 06-21-10, 11:48 PM
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Thanks for the reply, I kept digging and tinkering and everything I figured out pretty much matches with what you said. The bike is an 83 Nishiki Century with Suntour Honor RD. I came across something about adjusting the B screw and that helped, I ended up reversing it and I think that should be spot on. The only chains I ever messed with years ago were probably BMX chains so that explains it. I will probably just go to my lbs and ask them to break the chain and throw the new one on, I'll compare the two and see what the length is and figure out if I need to add links. the new chain is an SRAM 830 with the power link. so it should be easy enough to add.

I did play with the limit screws and got it to go through the full range, the chain doesn't hit the chainstay at all on the smallest cog but it's really tough to get the wheel to fit into the dropouts, should I just consider getting a smaller spacer on the axle to help with this or just be careful with installing and locking the quickreleases on the wheel?
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Old 06-22-10, 10:59 AM
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You can find an article here on spreading the rear triangle on steel frames to fit wider hubs http://sheldonbrown.com/home.html If you change spacers on one side, you will have to adjust spoke tension on one side to keep the rim centred between the brakes.
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Old 06-22-10, 11:33 AM
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It depends on why it's tough to fit the wheel into the dropouts. Many times a tight chain and derrialluer setup will make it so that you need to learn a trick or two to hold back the derrailleur or some other issue. But as long as it finally snaps cleanly into place without needing to be wedged tightly into the dropouts then I'd leave well enough alone. If you're having to spread the stays apart by only a millimeter or two it's likely not worth the effort to cold set it. But you may want to do this at some point just for grins and giggles.

A chain breaker tool is not a pricey thing and it's good to have on the road. Invest in one of the bicycle multi tools that has one and that way you've got it for shop use as well as any possible road repair situation.

New chains come overly long to suit all bikes. Your new chain will need to be fitted to the bike which means removing a link pair or three. There's just no point in comparing the present and new chains for length because of this. Again the Park Tools site has info on installing your chain that would be easy to follow if you get a chain breaking tool.

The old chain should just be trashed. It's false economy to scrounge links to add to an old chain. Besides you can buy decent 7/8 speed chains for pretty cheap. Also not all the pins and side plates are compatible so again you don't generally want to be mixing together bits of different chain.

If you want to give your old chain some extended life span maybe go and buy some 3/16 thick by 1.5 inch wide bar stock and make a chain whip with it.
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Old 06-22-10, 11:37 AM
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took it over to my LBS to have the guys give it a once over and let me watch and get a little education in the process. They did a little mild tweaking on the frame and a slight grind on the axle which he said was causing something to hang up. He reviewed the tweaking I did of the rear derailer to get the megarange to work and said it should be fine, he took the old chain off and put on the new and we got it shifting through all the gears. gonna take the bike out for a little extended ride now and see how she does!
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Old 06-22-10, 11:41 AM
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Sounds like you have a happy ending. Or at least the dragons have been defeated and you are on the home stretch...
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Old 06-23-10, 11:50 AM
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New Posters - please READ THIS
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Old 06-23-10, 06:51 PM
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Ummm... what's your point? I read all that. I spent a lot of time on shrldon browns page too. Your a real winner posting a smart ass response to a thread that has already been open and shut.

Thanks to those of you who offered productive answers to my questions.
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Old 06-24-10, 01:46 PM
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I'm a smart ass? For showing where there are links to how-to web sites?


There's a word for you too, buster. Welcome to my Ignore list.
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Old 06-24-10, 09:23 PM
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lol, oooh i'm hurt, i'm on your ignore list. your the moron that decides to make a useless post a day after everything was resolved. This forum blows. Every single forum has 10 stickies in it "READ THIS BLAH BLAH BLAH" You know what, I'm tired of reading stickies laced with useless anecdotes when I know there are thousands of people sitting at their desk, doing nothing, looking to kill time who are more than happy to give an answer. It saves me time, and it provides something for others to do.

Again thank you to those who provided useful answers which resulted in me getting it all figured out and working
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