crank removal tool stripped my thread, now what?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
crank removal tool stripped my thread, now what?
removing the cranks on my CRX4, the left one came off alright, then thought i was going alright on the right crank and then the tool popped out and i noticed instead of pushing it off the crank, it had actually completely stripped out the thread of the crank arm.
now what? i'm replacing the crank arms anyhoo, but how the hell do i get it off?
#2
Curmudgeon
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nausea, New Hamster
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: (see https://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Sorry to hear it.
Rules:
(1) make sure threads on crank and extractor are clean and lubricated.
(2) make sure extractor is screwed fully into the crank
(3) use search function to find all threads dealing with similar problem (there has been at least one here on BF in the past month)
Hope this helps -
- Wil
Rules:
(1) make sure threads on crank and extractor are clean and lubricated.
(2) make sure extractor is screwed fully into the crank
(3) use search function to find all threads dealing with similar problem (there has been at least one here on BF in the past month)
Hope this helps -
- Wil
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ok, most of what i can find is just about proper procedure for removal, apart from lubing up everything i did was right, it just totally shredded the inside thread.
only thread i can find on borked threads is this https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/284087-crank-question.html where someone recommends a heli-coil thingorama.
only thread i can find on borked threads is this https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/284087-crank-question.html where someone recommends a heli-coil thingorama.
#5
The Improbable Bulk
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
You may be able to get it off with a gear puller, available at auto parts stores etc. They aren't too expensive.
An LBS or garage may have one to save you the purchase and could pop it off for a couple of bucks.
An LBS or garage may have one to save you the purchase and could pop it off for a couple of bucks.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
#6
Curmudgeon
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Nausea, New Hamster
Posts: 1,572
Bikes: (see https://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
There was one recently in which a poster suggested the use of a regular gear-puller, which led to a discussion of exactly how that might be done. Someone even suggested using a wedge and a hammer.
- Wil
- Wil
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,615
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
This happened to me on an old bike I was rehabbing--- and the spider was bent anyway, so I had no reason to save the crank. I ended up using a dremel to cut it off. It took forever.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times
in
92 Posts
Originally Posted by ashsimmonds
now what? i'm replacing the crank arms anyhoo, but how the hell do i get it off?
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=136
#10
Your mom
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
There are 4-5 posts on this. On guy is fond of the "put the right sized socket into the crankarm hole, lay your bike on a concrete floor, and knock the crankarm off around the socket" method.
Looking at that sentence, I've concluded that there's no easy way to summarize. Do the search. Also the gear puller, as above.
Looking at that sentence, I've concluded that there's no easy way to summarize. Do the search. Also the gear puller, as above.
#11
Boomer
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 7,214
Bikes: Diamondback Clarity II frame homebuilt.
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16098 Post(s)
Liked 1,457 Times
in
1,064 Posts
I know its too late to help but by any chance was the washer from the crank bolt still in the bottom of the hole. If so the crank removal tool will push on the washer not on the bottom bracket.
The idea of laying the bike down on a cement floor with a socket small enough to fit through the crank but pushing on the bottom bracket shaft and then GENTLY tap the crank off with a hammer. Use a socket extension or small pipe to reach through from the top of the frame.
The idea of laying the bike down on a cement floor with a socket small enough to fit through the crank but pushing on the bottom bracket shaft and then GENTLY tap the crank off with a hammer. Use a socket extension or small pipe to reach through from the top of the frame.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S.E. Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 1,737
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I saw an old mechanic in a bike shop (must have been in is 80s) about 20 years ago use a gear puller on a crank with stripped threads. He had no problems, but worked very slowly. He placed the three arms of the gear puller behind the crank, turned the extractor bolt till it was snug. Checked the placement of the arms, did a full turn of the extractor, checked the arm placement again, and repeated until the crank was off. According to him the biggest risk of using the gear puller is having the arms slip off the back of the crank while working. Given the metal is pretty soft, it can gouge it pretty good. Good luck.
#14
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Originally Posted by peripatetic
If the bolt is off, you can go ride the bike. That'll back the crank off.
Plan 'B' would be a ball-joint fork.
Top
__________________
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 1,383
Bikes: Cinelli Supercoursa 69, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Mondonico Diamond Extra 05, Coors Light Greg Lemond (built by Scapin) 88, Scapin MTB, Stumpjumper 83, Specialized Stumpjumper M4, Lemond Poprad 2001
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I made one using bolts, and industrial grade washers to brace the crankextractor. I had to drill the crank arms for the bolts. It worked quite well and allowed me to save the expensive bottom bracket. I will try and gather the thing together and post a picture.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
There is a special tool for this:
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=VR-PE11000
Maybe you can find a shop that has the tool and a mechanic that knows how to use it.
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=VR-PE11000
Maybe you can find a shop that has the tool and a mechanic that knows how to use it.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 1,300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
There is a special tool for this:
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=VR-PE11000
Maybe you can find a shop that has the tool and a mechanic that knows how to use it.
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=VR-PE11000
Maybe you can find a shop that has the tool and a mechanic that knows how to use it.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I've used the automotive gear puller as well. I backed the crank with a couple pieces of 1/8 steel plate that were laying around. As mentioned above, it's difficult to get purchase on the crank and pull evenly from all sides- work slowly, continually checking the interface of gear puller arms and crank.
The spider still bent, but considering that the threads were stripped, it was headed for the trash bin anyway.
The spider still bent, but considering that the threads were stripped, it was headed for the trash bin anyway.
#19
Senior Member
I've used motorcycle tyre-irons before. Just wedge the tip between the crankarm and BB-cup. Pry a little >POP<, the crank comes off. Takes all of 5-seconds .
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Originally Posted by dwoloz
If I was a shop I could maybe see dropping $160 (and then writing it off) but for the average joe, wow. Id go with some of the other methods first.
#21
Senior Member
Find a socket that just fits inside the square of the crank arm.
Put the socket on a cement floor.
Place the bike over the socket so the socket is inside the square of the crank arm. Have someone hold the bike.
With a flat punch and a BFH (big f@cking hammer), hammer on the crank arm as close as you can to the bottom bracket. Put a big flat washer between the punch and the crank arm to protect the soft metal.
Put the socket on a cement floor.
Place the bike over the socket so the socket is inside the square of the crank arm. Have someone hold the bike.
With a flat punch and a BFH (big f@cking hammer), hammer on the crank arm as close as you can to the bottom bracket. Put a big flat washer between the punch and the crank arm to protect the soft metal.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 121
Bikes: 1976 Viscount
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Never worked on this issue before but things similar.
A little heat does wonders for loosing these things up. I'd expect the arms are aluminum and the crank shaft is steel. Aluminum will expand faster than steel so just a little heat and it may fall off.
A little heat does wonders for loosing these things up. I'd expect the arms are aluminum and the crank shaft is steel. Aluminum will expand faster than steel so just a little heat and it may fall off.
#24
Elitist Troglodyte
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 6,925
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by ashsimmonds
... everything i did was right, it just totally shredded the inside thread.
And while I'm on my soap box, why don't you give us enough information to help you? No clue as the type of crank retention mechanism you're dealing with! Are we supposed to guess? Put out some effort!
#25
Dropped
I found what I think is a tie rod remover at a garage sale yesterday. Adjustable arms on pivots, and it has two claw sizes if you flip the arms. Worked like a charm on an old crankarm-attached-to-spindle I had. Took quite a bit of torque to remove, and the pop scared the ***** out of me.