Is she worth saving?
 

Here's a pic of a bike I dumpster dove yesterday evening. The camera's batteries died after 1 photo, so if you'll tell me what detailed photos to post, I'll go get fresh batteries and do that.

Anyway, from what you can see, is it worth saving? It's a Schwinn (I know) World (I think) the paint is pretty dull and there is some surface rust.

What could I expect to spend to bring it back up to snuff? Or should I scrap the whole idea and throw it back in the dumpster?

PH
:Dhttp://interwovendesign.com/photos/image01z.jpg

These are superb recreational and transportation bikes, and the ones with step-through frames are theft-resistant. If you do your own work, it is definitely worth saving (new rubber as needed, new grease all around, possibly new brake cables). Collectors have never been interested in Japanese-built bikes (other than 3Rensho, etc.), but the value of old 10-speeds is starting to rise. With a little TLC and $50 parts investment, that World will run circles around any new bike retailing for less than $300.

Excuse my cycling ignorance, but what's a step-through frame? I thought this was a woman's bike and why would it be theft resistant?

I'll be doing my own work, I want this to be a learning process.

PH
:D

A step-through frame is where the top tube is low enough for you to step through, rather than swing a leg over, and yes they're mainly ridden by women in the western world, as are mixte frames. There's no real reason why men can't ride them, and I seem to recall a similar thread a while back that suggested in some cultures everyone rides mixte's or step-through's. Of course some women prefer to ride a 'men's' frame... Traditional diamond framed bikes tend to have a slightly higher secondhand value so are hence more 'stealable'.

To me it looks like a nice bike and well worth restoring if the frame is solid.

Richard

I'm with JohnE. He says it all.

It baffles me to read people's comments poo pooing old Schwinns.

I'm like, "Huh?" These are super bikes that stand a lot of abuse.

Truly committed bicyclists and commuters, would benefit greatly to own a small fleet of these reliable machines to take the daily abuse of poor roads, weather, and freight hauling.

Step throughs are theft resistant in the same way that automatic transmission cars are in the UK ie no-one into stealing cars would voluntarily steal an automatic if there were manuals available - basically not as 'cool' or re-sellable.

I would like to add my vote of encouragement for fixing this bike up. Old Schwinn's are a bit heavy but oh so comfortable to ride. As for cost of repairs it depends on what parts are missing. I would suspect that with new tires & tubes (if they are needed), new cables and grease, it shouldn't be over $50. max.

You need to disassemble the bike completely, clean everything and regrease the bearings in the wheels, HS: Head Set ( where the handle bars turn) and BB: Bottom Bracket (where the pedal arms connect to the frame). Since this is your first attempt, I would suggest you check the library or bookstore for some "How-To" info.

There are some specialized bicycle tools that will help make the job simpler: 13/14/15/16/17mm Cone Wrenches. These are thin tools and used for the wheels. The most common sizes are 15/17, but I've had to use all of them depending on how old the bike is. These can usually be had at a bike shop. Sears doesn't carry them. 6, 8 & 10" Adjustable Wrench for BB, HS, Pedals and derailleurs. A large Water pump plier 10 or 12" for the HS & BB. If you are a handy-guy, you probably have these tools except for the cone wrenchs.

It's not a difficult job. Take your time and don't over-tighten the bearings. (That's were the info books come in handy.) Good Luck!


. . .and "step through" is the English way of saying "Woman's bike" but I'm sure you figured that out already.

Since the general concensus is to fix it up, I'll add a few more questions to the mix.

What kind of grease for the bearings? Can I use standard Hi-temp car wheel bearing grease? I've got plenty of this at home.

Any special paint? I'll probably strip it all the way down to the frame and work back up from there. Can I use spray paint or do I need to go the route of air compressor / spray gun, which I also happen to own.

Thanks for the info on "step-through" I'll be able to use that when I get teased for riding a girl's bike. ;)

PH
:D

Can't speak for the paint. . .
however I strongly recommend that you use
Phil Woods grease on the bike and not the
automotive stuff. You should be able to get the
phils at any good LBS.

Marty

If the paint is generally okay, just dull, I'd touch up scratches with nail polish of the right shade (it's fun looking and you can always blend shades if you can't find a perfect match) and polish the frame up with a wax based furniture polish.

If it's very rusty stripping is probably a better option and painting it is really up to you. Brush on Hammerite will protect the frame, but you might not like the finish. Aerosol cans can give an 'okay' finish if used with great care, and lots of thin layers. A compressor would probably be better, but unless you've got a paint oven you're not going to get a spotless professional result.

Richard

Don't use automobile grease. Get some at the bike shop. They will probably have several brands. They are more expensive but developed for bikes.

You can use spray cans, but it will take many many many coats to give the frame any protection because the paint is so thin and damages easily. If you go to bare metal, it would be a good idea it apply a rust inhibitor first and then several coats of primer with a light sanding with 400 wet-or-dry emory between coats to keep it smooth. (Primer is notorious for shooting out blobs which ruin the final appearence if not sanded.)

You might consider going to an autobody shop and seeing if they will sandblast the old paint off. Don't know what it would cost, but it would be much quicker than tryig to do it yourself if they are willing to do it.

I like fix-up projects myself. I think a little bit of work on your on and you'll hae a commuter bike. If you want to clean the frame and get the rust off do the following: 1.-Wash the frame with soap and water to get the initial gunk off. 2.-Get some Oxi Clean -- This stuff is Great! Make a paste of it by adding a little water and apply to the rusted areas. Wait approximately 1/2 hour and remove with a sponge. This stuff is mildly abrasive. 3.-Repeat this process if the rust is still there. Depending on how much rust will determine the applications. It's also good for getting stains and grease off most surfaces and clothing -- and it's non-toxic and biodegradeable. Good Luck, Jeannie

Are the wheels metric 700c, or imperial 27". Older 27" tyres are still avaialable, but hard to find. 700c is standard for road bikes.

Are the teeth on the freewheel worn? You can still get freewheels (I use them) but you need the special tool to undo them.

It looks a fine utility bike, worth fixing up, but not lavishing lots of care on. The advantage of a rough looking util bike is that you dont fret when they inevitably get scratched or fall over.

Does the bike fit you? No point working on a too-small bike unless you want to give it to someone small.

Yes, you can use automotive grease on your bicycles. It is a little known fact that many bicycle greases are made by the same manufacturers as automotive lube manufacturers and re-packaged (smaller) and re-priced (higher) for the bicycle market. (P.S. Have you ever heard of Phil Woods Petrolium Company?).

You can re-paint to your heart's desire. Once you take the bike apart, there isn't much surface, so you might as well do a good job. Use power tools to strip off the old paint and any rust. Clean it with solvent, automobile soap and water, and finally with alchohol. Prime, sand, and paint.

You can use a good enamel or a good automotive laquer. You just can't mix the two.

Good paint jobs take more space than is worth writing about here. If you want an excellent new paint job, talk to body shop guys.

Otherwise, you can get good results with cans of spray paint.

As it sits right now, a thrift store would be hard-pressed to sell a bike like that for more than $10. Keep that in mind as you decide how much fixing it up will cost. The value of the bike will still be next to nothing, even after being fixed up.
While the bike won't be worth anything to anybody else, that alone will prevent it from being stolen. Fix it up only if you (or somebody close to you) will be riding it. You won't make a penny fixing it up to sell.

You can run some automotive grease, but you were right on the money when you asked about high temp. Grease has a temp rating for liquifying to coat the bearings. If hi-temp is used, effectively the grease will merely cut a channel through, and will be bearing on race. White lithium is acceptable and other low temp greases will work fine, although won't last as long as some of the bike specific greases, (yes, these are made by big companies, but are formulated for specific application).

I think if you work hard, put more like $80 into the bike (cables, brake pads on top of tires and tubes) you'll have a bike worth $20 or $30.

However in the world of hobbies and learning curves, this is cheap, fun, educational entertainment. I don't understand my wife's dish collection, but I do know she get loves them, loves shopping for them and my life is in danger if I make fun of them. That and they are alot more expensive than bikes, and not nearly as fun to ride. In other words, your decision is the right one.

Good riding

Yes, but it will run circles around any new bike costing twice or thrice that $80 investment, which still makes it economically defensible.

I am certain that somewhere among the many thousands of posts here, someone else has said this. Probably several. But just in case, and keeping in mind that there are always limits:

This isn't about money, it's about passion!

Cheers...Gary

I think you should fix the bike up. I've restored several old bikes, including a Schwinn that looks like yours (but not as good) and it should not cost all that much to get it in good riding condition.

You have to repack all the bearings, clean and lube the brakes, install new pads, soak the freewheel in kerosene, let it dry then lube it with motor oil.

I use White-Lightning for the chain, Phil Woods grease for bearings, and silicone spray on everything else.

I would think twice about stripping off the paint though. It looks pretty good to me and "NO OTHER" paint will be as durable as what they did at the factory. If you try to spray it yourself, it will be too soft and scratch and peel too easily. Body shop paint job...maybe, but for my money, I'd just touch up what you have.

Good Riding!

As always, Gary has his priorities straight.

The question that started this thread was whether the bike is WORTH saving. That indicates monetary value, not emotional value. Emotional value is easy, or if you prefer, about the passion. There may be no limit. There are a number of bikes I would put into this class, but this isn't it. Monetary value may sometimes have something to do with being collectable, but this isn't one of those either.

I commented before that it would cost around $80 to fix it up and John replied:
Twice the amount, maybe, three times, not a prayer.

This is a Schwinn World, one step above the Caliente, on a good year it sold for $190. I has pressed steel hubs famous for separating at the press, this mostly happened when the rear triangle (soft grade hi-ten steel) got bent (almost as often as stamped stay Murrays--remember those?) and caused the rear axle to brake, because the drop outs no longer lined up and the frame with a heavy rider didn't have the strength to hold the hub together. It never used better than a ty-36 der set, was indexed on the right hand at last production--and this bike isn't one of those either. I'm not even going to get started on the steel rims, side pull brakes (that would scrub some speed before impact but would never skid a wheel--as required by law) or the "safety levers" on the brake levers.

Now if you are asking if this is a good bike to learn solid principles on bearing adjustments, installing tires, cable routing, wheel truing, derailleur adjustments etc. then the question is retorical, the bike is free, you can destroy with immunity.

Am I passionate? Not about 20 year old death traps.

The Schwinn "death trap"?

Do you suppose you might be blowing things out of proportion here a little bit, Walt?

Walt, if the wheels are as you describe, they are indeed junk, and I have never cared for suicide brake extension handles. However, it is not difficult find decent used road wheels (on or off bikes) at yard sales. Today's $200 *-Mart specials still have the single-pivot brakes, steel hubs, and steel rims you so properly detest.

As for "death trap" brakes, I would have to put my single-pivot Campy sidepull calipers in that category, which is why I plan to offend the purists and replace them with anachronistic dual-pivot units.