mickel

I have a 1992 Trek 2300 composite with factory quill stem and would like to convert to the more modern looking stem like a Ritchey or FSA. Would a 1-1/8 threadless adapter then a stem with the same size steerer work? I assume my original is threadless

Nerull

If its a quill stem, then its not a threadless headset. Threadless adapters work by fitting into a threaded headset like a quill stem, and providing a clamping surface for a threadless stem, where the steerer tube in a threadless system would be.

BCRider

Since you have a quill stem you actually do have a threaded headset. You can't have one without the other. There are threadless stem adapters that will replace your present quill stem and leave you with either a 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch stub that will accept threadless stems. Pick the size you want to go with but likely these days you'd want to go with 1 1/8.

mickel

so i need a threaded adapter?

zzyzx_xyzzy

any particular reasin you want to go with the threadless stem? need to change your handlebar position, or fit a 31.8 bar, or...?

A quill adapter plus threadless stem will usually wind up being heavier than a quill stem (and usually looks like a kludge instead of looking more modern)

Nerull

I believe they are usually called threadless adapters, since I'm not sure how (or why) you'd design an adapter to take a quill stem with a threadless headset.

A quill stem looks like this:


It slips inside the threaded headset (There are no threads on the stem itself, threadless refers only to the headset), then you tighten a bolt at the top to force the wedge against the headset, locking the stem in place.

An adapter looks like this:


The bit that goes inside the headset is the same as a normal quill stem, with a wedge. The top, instead of bending to a handlebar clamp, provides a threadless headtube-sized clamping surface for a threadless stem, like this:

mickel

If my headset is threaded what does the threadless adapter grab on to?

mickel

Thanxs a picture is worth a 1000 words.

Nerull

When you tighten the wedge the shape forces it against the inside of the steerer tube, clamping it in place. In a threaded headset the steerer tube ends inside the headset and the stem fits down inside it and clamps in place, using a wedge. In a threadless headset the steerer tube extends above the headset and the stem clamps around the outside of the steerer.

Maybe this will help:

mickel

newer bike models seem to have changed to this look.

BCRider

But a lot of us also like the old look of a nicely shaped quill stem.

If you're happy with the bike you COULD just leave well enough alone......

Having said that a switch to a threadless adapter and a stem and set of 31.8 bars would sure stiffen up your feel at the front end. If you're a serious performance nut then that alone would be a good reason to do the mod.

mickel

Being over 200 lbs. I sometimes get that flexey headset feeling and am looking to create a stronger feeling.

DannoXYZ 

A quill-stem is flexy interface due to the smaller barrel-diameter of the quill and the longer length of stem with 73-degree bend (for same extension reach). Well, you really should replace the fork, headset and stem if you want the real benefits of threadless stems; lighter and stiffer front-end. Using a quill-adaptor gives the look of threadless, but none of the benefits. Threadless quill adaptor + threadless stem is actually more flexy than a quill-stem alone.

badamsjr

mickel: are you trying to get the look of threadless, or to have the advantage of a removeable handlebar clamp? There are quill stems available with the removeable clamp. I have a couple I've gotten from Nashbar, and they work fine, and make trying different bars a snap.

I have not noticed my bikes with quill stems being any more 'flexy' than the threadless ones. If the headset is properly adjusted, and the stem is tightened right, it should be as solid as a threadless one.

BCRider

Stiffer does add to the bike, no doubt about that. While the adapter and threadless stem and 31.8 bars will certainly help you'll still have a flexible point right at the top of the quill part of the adapter where it necks down. The flex will likely overall be far less than what you have now but it won't be QUITE as stiff as a total full on threadless fork and top end upgrade.

If you're commited enough to the bike that you know you're going to have it for the long term what about springing for the cost of a 1 inch steerer carbon fork and 1 inch threadless headset and covert it totally? The 1 inch road bike components are not so far out of date that you won't find what you need. And with the addition of a 1 to 1 1/8 shim you could even go with a 1 1/8 stem and the 31.8 bars. And with that setup it would be that last little bit stiffer than just doing the quill to threadless adaption.

It'll just depend on how much you're willing to spend on the bike.

etherhuffer 

Velo Orange adapter.

DannoXYZ 

Maybe you're not a 200-lb sprinter like the OP. I certainly notice a HUGE difference between quill-stems and modern threadless ones. Then again, I've snapped two stems and three handlebars in sprints. That's why I use steel stems and handlebars on my track bike. It's not the freeplay in the bearings, but actually the metal parts bending from load.

BCRider

I'm FAR AND AWAY from being a big burly racer that can mash their way to a crit win. But even I used to notice the flex in quill stem setups when crunching my way up a big hill. Threadless really IS a more rigid setup in every way imaginable.

I'll use quill stems on a nice vintage bike and they truly are things of beauty but threadless is where it's at for serious riding bikes.