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Quick-release to solid axle
I picked up an old Motobecane conversion that still used the original QR for the front hub. I'd like to swap for a solid axle. I've not done this before and it seems pretty straight forward. Is there anything special I need know?
Perhaps the bigger question is, where is the best/preferred place to buy a new axle? LBS? Online? It doesn't appear to be a common part. I'm assuming width matters here, but I should be able to figure that out based on the fork I've got. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Aged Bike Fixer
(Post 11080786)
I picked up an old Motobecane conversion that still used the original QR for the front hub. I'd like to swap for a solid axle. I've not done this before and it seems pretty straight forward. Is there anything special I need know?
Perhaps the bigger question is, where is the best/preferred place to buy a new axle? LBS? Online? It doesn't appear to be a common part. I'm assuming width matters here, but I should be able to figure that out based on the fork I've got. Thanks! Why do you want to go to solid axle? saftey reasons? I would suggest picking iup a skewer that uses a 5mm allen or one of the proprietary keys, bout the same cost. |
Originally Posted by cnnrmccloskey
(Post 11081048)
Why do you want to go to solid axle? saftey reasons? I would suggest picking iup a skewer that uses a 5mm allen or one of the proprietary keys, bout the same cost.
But thanks! I'll check out an allen skewers. I knew there would be a good reason to post this question. |
Originally Posted by Aged Bike Fixer
(Post 11081092)
Safety... in that it's one more tool a thief has to bring to remove parts from the bike. I know, it's all smoke and mirrors. I carry a 15mm wrench, so why wouldn't a thief.
But thanks! I'll check out an allen skewers. I knew there would be a good reason to post this question. If you do want to go ahead with the conversion, most front hubs use a 9mm x1.0 mm threaded axle and these are available from any bike dealer worthy of the name. Here is an on-line source for them also: http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=194794132202 |
Wheels manufacturing makes good ones out of 4130 steel. They fail by bending rather than breaking. The nuts take a 15 mm wrench that also fits your pedals.
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Originally Posted by Charles Ramsey
(Post 11086507)
Wheels manufacturing makes good ones out of 4130 steel. They fail by bending rather than breaking. The nuts take a 15 mm wrench that also fits your pedals.
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Another possibility is to get a hose clamp from the hardware store and tighten it down around the QR lever to hold it against the leg of the fork. I figure a theif is unlikely to want to fiddle with a rusty hose clamp just to steal the wheel off an old 10 speed.
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there are also pit-lock skewers to consider.
To really make pit-lock style skewers tamper proof, it's best to have a hub that uses a 6mm allen key to open up, or cover the flats on the lock nut cones. |
Originally Posted by AEO
(Post 11086794)
there are also pit-lock skewers to consider.
To really make pit-lock style skewers tamper proof, it's best to have a hub that uses a 6mm allen key to open up, or cover the flats on the lock nut cones. |
If thwarting thieves is the primary issue, then I think these suggestions would be best:
Originally Posted by cnnrmccloskey
(Post 11081048)
I would suggest picking iup a skewer that uses [...] one of the proprietary keys
Originally Posted by AEO
(Post 11086794)
there are also pit-lock skewers to consider.
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