jamesj

Ok i tried looking through old threads, reading Sheldon, and park tools but i'm still not sure on how to do this.

I had the cartridge bearings put in the hub but now am struggling to do the adjustment with the quick release i know there needs to be some play in the hub but how much is to much?

I dont have a vice or anything and i really don't want to take it to shop because i would like to learn it on my own.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on putting my wheels back together.

BCRider

If you have threaded adjusters to set up the preload on the cartridge bearings then you want to do this using some thick crush proof washers so you can clamp your QR skewer to the axle using a normal amount of force. With the washers preventing the skewer from jamming the flange and preload nuts you're free to play with moving these back and forth to set up for a shake free setting that provides just a hair of preload drag. Doing it that way takes all the guesswork out of trying to figure out how much to allow for the QR compressing the axle.

FBinNY 

An alternative to the washers BCRider suggested is doing the final with the wheel fully secured in the frame. This has an added advantage because play felt at the rim is roughly 5 times more than you'd feel at the axle giving you really good sensitivity. Take out all the free play until you're not quite sure whether there's any left or not.

Whether you use the washers, or do it in the frame, working with the actual QR load on the axle is easier than trying to guess how much it'll change when you clamp it.

BCRider

FB, the reason I like using the washer trick is that I can spin the axle with my fingers and feel sort of drag we get with the correct preload. Also with the frame method he would need to take the wheel out of the dropouts for each adjustment since the flange nuts will be under compression from the skewer. Doing it that way once or twice would get him by but it would soon get annoyingly slow.

FBinNY 

We're in basic agreement, and either is OK depending on what you're used to. When I don't have the exact frame the wheel will be in, I do it the same way as you, using 2 spacers I cut from a fork about 30 years ago, but I've come to prefer doing it in the frame when I can. I don't remove the wheel to turn the locknut, I just open the QR adjust and lock it.

BTW- the way I adjust cones made me an instant fan of the current Campagnolo hubs which are designed for east adjustment while in the bike.

jamesj

ok, so let me get this right i can throw the wheel in the frame, tighten it down until i feel that there is any play left then tighten the QR...

Im sure i probably got this completely wrong in my thinking... Just never really messed with this kind of hub and axle used to working with the cones....

FBinNY 

It does take some getting used to the first time. Turning the lock nut usually requires the QR to be open, but you have to test the adjustment with the QR closed. BCRider is right that it can be a bit of a PITA if you've never done it.

I prefer it because some hubs have such tight seals that seal drag or seal support of the axle sometimes makes harder for me to feel for the perfect adjustment.

The point we're both trying to convey is that you don't try estimate the effect of closing the QR, but check the adjustment while it's closed. If you don't have 2 6mm thick washers or fork ends to use you can use the frame.

jamesj

ok thanx.

I get what you are both saying and it makes sense now.
I guess i'm just concerned about is getting it right i'm not sure how much is to much or not enough, I have done wheels with the cones and i know what im looking for while looking for to much or not enough play.

I see how it would be easier with the washers i might run to the hardware store. does anyone have any pics of what or how they would do this.


thanx again fro the help.

FBinNY 

No picture, but you need 3/8" (the hole) washers probably 3-4 per side to make up enough thickness to stack beyond the end of the axle. That's the key, if the QR is screwed against the axle the cam won't do anything. (If you don't see this, remove the springs and screw the QR all the way down against the axle and the situation will immediately be obvious)

BCRider

Um, not quite. A stack of 3/8 washers for the one side is fine but on the other what I'm suggesting is a thick bit of steel with a 5mm hole in it so it jams against the end of the axle and leaves the axle nut and adjuster free to adjust while the skewer is left tight. A little block of 1/8 to 3/16 thick steel with a 13/64 hole would do it nicely.

davidad

Yo don't want preload on radial (cartridge) bearings. They should be adjusted with little or zero play when the QR lever is closed.

BCRider

I was wondering about that. I'm a bit embarrased to say that I only have one wheel out of all the bikes I've ever had and worked on with cartridge bearings. And so far it has not needed a wink of attention.

FBinNY 

OK, now you've done it. I have a bruise on my forehead from where I've struck it with my palm as I said "Doh!!"

I've been using the same forkends for 30-40 years when adjusting cones, and it's never been an issue turning the locknut with the forkend pressing down on it but you're absolutely right that it would be easier with the QR nut bearing on the end of the axle leaving the locknut totally free.

I think I still prefer the sensitivity of checking the adjustment at the rim but am going to make myself a thin slotted spacer to go between the nut and axle. Thanks for demonstrating that it's never too late to learn.

BCRider

As long as this little epiphany didn't leave you with a concussion it's all good....

Just to add here's a sketch of the actual bits that I use for this work. In my case the block on the end that locks to the axle nut is a square lump so I can grip it in my vise while making those tiny and critical cone and axle nut adjustments on the other end with less fuss from the axle turning when I don't want it to turn.

Any and all are free to copy it but at least give me the credit for it.