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Is there any reason why I cant run any crank I want.....(best crank options?)

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Is there any reason why I cant run any crank I want.....(best crank options?)

Old 07-26-10, 03:05 PM
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tj90
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Is there any reason why I cant run any crank I want.....(best crank options?)

I have mixed Campy 9/10 speed group. Running square taper and BB is probably on its way out soon. Any reason why (other than aesthetics) why I cant run any 10 speed crank (shimano, campy, aftermarket) with this setup?

Since Im out shopping, who makes the most value crank/ouboard BB setup out there? I would like the weight savings of carbon, but dont want to plunk down a ton of $$. Aluminum looks nice too, so Im not opposed to that either. I saw older ultratorque out there for great prices online, but the retailers seem sold out or unavailable in most places.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:16 PM
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Is there a reason to change? Square taper doesn't mean extinct just yet and probably not for a long while.

That said if you want to change, no there is no reason you can't change to whatever you want. You probably won't pick up any speed from a crank change but you might pick up some weight savings. I like the looks of the compact Veloce ultra torque cranks on eBay from some sellers for $80. But since I have plenty of Square taper Veloce cranks and two Phil Wood BB's to go with them, I won't be getting them anytime soon. Besides, with my dinosaur setup I can make changes to my chain line when I get a new frame and the BB's handle both the compact and triple versions of the crank that I have.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:33 PM
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Absolutely no reason that you can't use the crank of your choice providing you use a compatible bottom bracket. There may be chainline or chainstay clearance issues, but that's more related to the frame than the crankset. Note that there might also be issues of chainring separation and chain width, but that can be managed.

It's interested that you're moving away from square taper. I went the other way, and am using old Sun Tour Superbe Pro cranks and BB on my Chorus 10s bike. I prefer them because I find the old BB's more serviceable, and vastly longer lasting. Plus the 130bcd ST crankset gives me more freedom to use the chainrings of my choice.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:38 PM
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I am assuming you have an AC-H bottom bracket. If it were me, I would just pick up a new one and keep using your existing Campy crankset.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:39 PM
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I guess Im interested in moving away from square taper because:
1) My PW BB spindle is worn out so I need to buy another one.
2) Im using shimano outboard BB on my mtn bike and its really awesome. Light weight, stiff, no creaking, no fiddling and less tools to assemble/reassemble. I honestly believe that it is a worthy upgrade on the mtn bike over the old cartridges.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by demoncyclist View Post
I am assuming you have an AC-H bottom bracket. If it were me, I would just pick up a new one and keep using your existing Campy crankset.
I dont know what an AC-H BB is. Im currently using a cromo phil wood BB thats on its 3rd set of bearings and 10 YO.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:41 PM
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Then I would go with a Campy UT setup.
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Old 07-26-10, 03:45 PM
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Again, In your situation the cheapest thing you can do is send the BB back to Phil wood for servicing, They can fix it with new bearings and it won't move, cheaper than you can pick all the stuff for a new UT setup. But if you want a UT setup then do it... And Post Pictures
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Old 07-26-10, 03:52 PM
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The AC-H is a square taper Campy bottom bracket. The one that came on my old Bianchi lasted for about 15K miles, and the replacement from Branford Bike was about $20. Canopus is right about the PW, but if you really want to go with an external bearing setup, I would go UT before anything else on a Campy bike. My Cannondale has a TruVativ crankset, and while it has been okay so far, I would have preferred a Campy crankset.
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Old 08-17-10, 10:34 AM
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Thanks guys for the input. I sent the BB back. PW ended up fixing the BB and sending it back in only 2 days! I was only out of a bottom bracket for about a week! The BB service including return shipping was ~35 bucks. They called when everything was disassembled and told me the problem - the non-OEM phil bearings. Apparently Phil only uses very tightly toleranced bearings from Japan to insure that the spindle is tightly pressed into the ID of the bearing. I learned that these BBs should only use PW bearings for proper operation. A little more $, but no spindle movement or creaks.

I also inquired about a Ti spindle. They threw that in for another $55 bucks. I was told that its not first quality (some minor blemish or finish issue) that is not the same as what they would sell but they have em laying around. I decided to go for it.

Installed everything last night and it rolls smoothly. The Ti saves ~65g, but I swear I can feel the difference in weight. Hopefully my troubles will be over and Ill get many more years of use out of it. They did not send the old spindle back (I wish they had) so that I could measure the OD on the drive side. I used calipers and swear it was undersize.... Oh well ~$90 I got new bearings and Ti spindle - what a deal!

Still on the square taper train and loving it. Apparently, they are coming out with campy rear cassette hub. If they do that Ill build up some phil wheels. I think Im wanting to go old-school with 32 3 cross. Those wheels seemed less tempermental than the new, lightweight ultracool factory built wheels.

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Old 08-17-10, 11:52 AM
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Glad you got it fixed.

Originally Posted by tj90 View Post
Apparently, they are coming out with campy rear cassette hub.
Now that would be nice. I don't really know why they stopped making them, other than the possibility that Campy kept changing the freehub design on them. I have been using the NOS Mirage and Veloce hubs for my wheels. No problems yet but they are young, so time will tell. But at 10 to 20 per hub I have a few spares lined up also so I think I'm good for while.
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Old 08-17-10, 12:12 PM
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NOS campy hubs for $10-20! That sounds interesting...
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Old 08-17-10, 12:26 PM
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ive run other cranks, but if you run a 10spd 5.9 mm chain ive found front shifting is best with campy 10 rings. they are closer together and it makes a noticeable differance.
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