Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Removing hub spacers so axle protrudes from drop outs more?

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Removing hub spacers so axle protrudes from drop outs more?

Old 08-18-10, 06:47 AM
Kid A
Thread Starter
TurbineBlade's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,778
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Removing hub spacers so axle protrudes from drop outs more?

I have a road bike frame spaced 130mm and a shimano hub spaced 130mm also. I am using an old style nutted axle and am finding that the axle just barely protrudes enough beyond the rear dropout for the nuts to grab enough threads. It's so close I wouldn't be surprised if it stripped when I tighten the nuts

Question: Instead of getting a longer axle, could I just remove the hub spacer on the non-drive side and crank the nuts down tight? I'm trying to picture how to do this in my head without throwing the rear out of alignment or doing anything stupid.

Thanks folks!
TurbineBlade is offline  
Old 08-18-10, 06:58 AM
Senior Member
TallRider's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,430
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
you could do this and it would buy you more axle.
it would also mean that the spacing of the hub is narrower (say you removed two 2mm spacers, you'd drop the hub spacing from 130mm to 126mm). this would clamp the frame's dropouts slightly narrower, which is absolutely no problem with steel or titanium, probably only a theoretical problem with aluminum, and likely a no-no with carbon fiber.

as long as you remove the same spacing from each side, the wheel will likely stay centered between the rear brake. But you may not have space on the drive-side (depending on whether the cassette of gears is already close as possible to the frame when the wheel is installed on the bike). And if you remove dropouts from only the non-drive side, you'd need to re-dish the rim. which means a weaker wheel.

it's probably best to just get a longer axle.
TallRider is offline  
Old 08-18-10, 07:04 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,940
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 809 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you remove an axle spacer you will change the OLD, meaning doing the nuts up will squeeze the dropouts together potentially upsetting the alignment of the derailer. Will in extreme cases introduce a bending force on the axle. Might also affect the alignment of the wheel in the frame.

Might also work just fine, w/o any side effects at all.

I think that the cost of a new axle is well worth it for the piece of mind it will offer.
dabac is offline  
Old 08-18-10, 07:37 AM
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,508

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 474 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As noted removing a drive side spacer would change your derailleur adjustment (and chainline). The other potential problem is that even if the spacer is not a tabbed lockwasher if that is the only thing between the cone and locknut you need to be very careful to lock the two against each other very solidly.
cny-bikeman is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.