MikesChevelle

Is there an indexing adjustment on the actual brifter its self?

The Shifter that does the front dérailleur basically wont shift to the outer chain ring. When I push it to the side, it will shift to the outer chain ring, but the FD wont stay "out" and comes back about half way, kicking the chain back down.

The cable is tight as it should be, and the H and L screw are set correctly, as well as the dérailleur height and angle.

I am currently in WD40 hose mode so possibly that may fix it, but it just wont stay indexed all the way out?

Al1943

One possibility is that the high limit screw needs to be backed out a small amount to allow the shifter to fully engage the detent.
Another possibility is that the shifter was not in it's lowest position when the cable was attached to the dérailleur.
Check in at www.parktool.com for dérailleur setup instructions.

Bianchigirll 

I agree, I bet you just need to back off the H screw a micrometer or two. as Al1943 said you can likely feel the click but your not locking in place

MikesChevelle

I will double check the H screw, but the shifter was in the lowest setting when I was attached,

Should I just back the H screw all the way out and set if it even catches?

MikesChevelle

It was NOT the H screw, I backed it out far enough for the chain to get tossed off the outer chain ring when I tried to shift, but the FD still did not stay out far enough and came back to rest in a position in between the inner and outer rings?

LBS time?

zzyzx_xyzzy

sounds like the cable tension is not really as tight as it should be. increase cable tension on the front derailleur?

("tension" is a bad word for this, it really is the indexing adjustment for the FD.)

MikesChevelle

Its as tight as I can get it with out pulling to FD off the L limit screw

zzyzx_xyzzy

hmm. thing is, the spring tension of the derailleur will pull the cable tighter than your fingers will. so if you tighten it a bit more, it should still rest at the L limit screw when you're done, which is what matters. I usually adjust the cable position by first moving the chain onto the big ring, shifting down so the derailleur is being held up by the chain and the cable is slack, then adjusting the cable while it's slack.

RobbieTunes

I've PM'd you. I've done about 20 of these conversions, and I think roccobike has done several thousand...

This is not to be confused with FD rub, often caused by a 7-sp FD running on 8-sp shifters. It's sometimes unavoidable, but I set my rub to occur when I'm cross-chained small ring to outer cogs, since I shouldn't be riding there...

The main snafu's are:
1) FD cable loose
2) FD setting
3) FD not parallel to the chain rings
4) Shifter cable not in the guide below the BB
5) R crank arm not seated fully on the BB spindle
6) Shifter not "zeroed" out when the cable was inserted
7) Gummed up shifter won't get to the last click


I like STI's, but in many cases, a L STI is the best argument there is for a L DT shifter.

bradtx

MC, I recently had the same problem with my 600 FD brifter. While I took mine apart, I don't think that it was really required, ie. I was lucky to get it working again. It's best to remove the shifter from the bike.

Use aerosol brake cleaner, carb cleaner or similar to break free the old grease. Mine had turned into a hard yellow crystaline like substance that prevented the pawls from engaging. Once the pawls are engaging follow up with a hosedown of LPS2.

You should feel two detents from both levers during full travel, the first detent is the trim and the second is a full shift and is a few degrees before you run out of travel. You can remove the logo cap and then the chrome cover to actually see one of the plates moving and locking.

Good luck,
Brad

MikesChevelle

I do get two detents, its just the second detent leaves it half way between the chain rings.

RT - I did not think about checkin to see if the crank arm is all the way on, good thought

MikesChevelle

update : I got the R arm seated as tight as I could, it helped, but didnt fix the problem. I also shifter to the outer chain ring, and then shifted back, but leaving the chain on the outer, then tightened, It fixed the getting to the outter CR issue but now there is major rub on the inner chain ring when its on the two highest cogs.

It just seems that the range of the two detents isnt wide enough?

I can deal with cross chain rub, as I can just shift, but I want to be able to use Inner/Inner and Outer/Outer with out issue.

Didnt think a 7 to 8 spd conversion would cause such issues.

Is it possible that I needed to swap over the FD from the bike the STI's came from, they are both 600's and the cages are the same size, ie, they look identical

RobbieTunes

The 7-sp FD geometry is different from the 8-sp FD geometry on the tricolor 600.

However, inner rub when the chain is "IN" shouldn't be an issue, and shouldn't change the ability to get to the outer R. Loosen the inner parameter 1/4 turn. Generally, there is a point on the inside movement of that limit screw where about 1/4 of a screw turn makes about a 2mm difference.

MikesChevelle

The issue I am coming across is I have to have the cable tight enough to get it to get out to the OCR to where it is to tight to come to rest on the L screw, causing inner chain rub, conversely, if I loosen it to eliminate the inner rub, I cannot get out to the OCR

for now I have it set to fault with inner rub, as I do not use the inner chain ring with the inner two cogs that often, but eventually I would like to solve this

MikesChevelle

LBS time?

RobbieTunes

Yep. Not sure what it is, but they should be able to solve it.

Kimmo 

You do have the cable going over the pinch bolt rather than under it, right?

MikesChevelle

pinch bolt?