Newbie: Chain and Cassette Replacement
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Newbie: Chain and Cassette Replacement
A couple years ago I bought the 2005 Original Discovery Channel Trek Team Bike (1 of 100 made apparently) on the recommendation of a friend who's brother rides professionally.
I've had it tuned a couple of times, but as a noob I have little knowledge in bike maintenance save for chaining tires, lubing chain, etc.
I've ridden the bike about 750 miles in the two years I've had it and recently took a bike maintenance class where we learned to measure the chain. The mechanic told me that mine needed replacing and that I should also replace the back cassette too.
The chain has never slipped on me.
Do I absolutely need to replace the cassette as well? How can I determine if I need to replace the cassette as well? How much is it going to run me? I would like to keep decent part on it, but don't want to spend a fortune (the mechanic mentioned that if I put anything better than "105s" on it I would probably be wasting my money)?
Thanks guys!
Matt in NYC
I've had it tuned a couple of times, but as a noob I have little knowledge in bike maintenance save for chaining tires, lubing chain, etc.
I've ridden the bike about 750 miles in the two years I've had it and recently took a bike maintenance class where we learned to measure the chain. The mechanic told me that mine needed replacing and that I should also replace the back cassette too.
The chain has never slipped on me.
Do I absolutely need to replace the cassette as well? How can I determine if I need to replace the cassette as well? How much is it going to run me? I would like to keep decent part on it, but don't want to spend a fortune (the mechanic mentioned that if I put anything better than "105s" on it I would probably be wasting my money)?
Thanks guys!
Matt in NYC
#2
Banned
A worn chain wears the teeth on the chainrings , replacing the chain early,
extends the life of the chain-wheels it contacts.
As the only thing that chages from one steel cassette to another is the plating color
he's got it , the fancier stuff adds light weight but less durable materials , Al/Ti.
extends the life of the chain-wheels it contacts.
As the only thing that chages from one steel cassette to another is the plating color
he's got it , the fancier stuff adds light weight but less durable materials , Al/Ti.
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-07-10 at 04:35 PM.
#3
46 bikes and counting...
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Under your LBS...
Posts: 107
Bikes: 1992 Trek multitrack 700 sourgrape with red decals, 1992 Trek multtrack 700 (with 1" threadless conversion), 2009 jamis Aurora Elite, 2007 Jamis Cross Country 2.0, 1981 Trek 613, 1980's Fuji "Redlof" folding bike, Iron Horse AT-70 with 48cc motor....
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chains are designed to wear down first, before other components such as chain rings and the cassette, but those can wear down too. With riding your pedaling motion is transferred to the wheel via your chain and cassette. All that torque stretches out the chain. I'm sure you learned that in your class. In some cases, orignal parts with wear down together fitting to each other like a hand and glove. Some times when you replace one of these 3 parts (chain, cassette, chainrings) things won't fit quite right. its like getting a glove too small for your hand. You'll notice grinding, and or poping, if you also need to replace your cassette. I would start with just getting the chain about $20 at any LBS. Wal-mart one-time-use tool is about $7 and for a LBs to do it is roughly $10 where I live. Replacing a chain is something you can do your self, you just need the tool and make the chain the right length. If you or the LBS notice a mis-match due to a worn cluster, you'll need to get the shop to do it, and cost of a new one depends on how many speeds you have.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,703
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5265 Post(s)
Liked 1,586 Times
in
909 Posts
It's difficult to predict whether a used cassette will work with a new chain, but you can make an educated guess based on how stretched the old chain is. If it's less than 1%, (1/8" over 12") the odds favor you, beyond 1% the odds decline quickly. I always start by replacing only the chain and see how things are. If it runs smoothly the cassette is fine, if not replace the cassette.
BTW- I'm surprised that your chain is toast after only 750 miles. Did you measure it with a 12" rule, or with a gadget. I ask because most of the gadgets sold tend to read high, and you might be tossing a chain with hundreds of miles of life still to go. Check again, then treat it to some decent chain lube and take it until it's stretched 1/2%, or 1/16" over 12, by ruler check.
Another thing to consider. You replace chains early in order to save the cassette. If the horse has already escaped, so to speak, and your old cassette won't run with the new chain, you might put the old chain back on and run it until both die. Consider these bonus miles, and enjoy them as long as you can. Warning this will take a toll on your chainrings, so figure what you save against what it'll cost later.
BTW- I'm surprised that your chain is toast after only 750 miles. Did you measure it with a 12" rule, or with a gadget. I ask because most of the gadgets sold tend to read high, and you might be tossing a chain with hundreds of miles of life still to go. Check again, then treat it to some decent chain lube and take it until it's stretched 1/2%, or 1/16" over 12, by ruler check.
Another thing to consider. You replace chains early in order to save the cassette. If the horse has already escaped, so to speak, and your old cassette won't run with the new chain, you might put the old chain back on and run it until both die. Consider these bonus miles, and enjoy them as long as you can. Warning this will take a toll on your chainrings, so figure what you save against what it'll cost later.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks!
These are all excellent responses, guys, and much appreciated.
To answer your questions:
1. I believe that in the time that I have had the bike I have most likely put on 750 miles, or perhaps 1000, but I bought it 3 years used and I didn't think - well, know - to measure the chain to see how much more life I had in it.
2. I measure the chain in class, first with at 12" ruler then the mechanic used the tool. I remember something about it being over 1%...
I'll take the bike to my LBS now armed with more information and have them measure it too. The comment about if I'm going to have to replace the cassette along with the chain, I might as well ride it until both go is excellent and much appreciated!
A couple more questions: How much would this cost me - roughly - both in parts and labor? What else should I consider examining (e.g. cables) since the bike is now five years old?
Thanks again, guys. Your replies are very much appreciated!
To answer your questions:
1. I believe that in the time that I have had the bike I have most likely put on 750 miles, or perhaps 1000, but I bought it 3 years used and I didn't think - well, know - to measure the chain to see how much more life I had in it.
2. I measure the chain in class, first with at 12" ruler then the mechanic used the tool. I remember something about it being over 1%...
I'll take the bike to my LBS now armed with more information and have them measure it too. The comment about if I'm going to have to replace the cassette along with the chain, I might as well ride it until both go is excellent and much appreciated!
A couple more questions: How much would this cost me - roughly - both in parts and labor? What else should I consider examining (e.g. cables) since the bike is now five years old?
Thanks again, guys. Your replies are very much appreciated!
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,703
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5265 Post(s)
Liked 1,586 Times
in
909 Posts
Between your course, and the various tutorials available online, it should be a snap.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 409
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hmm well using a worn chain will wear out the cassette and the chainrings faster. Replacing the chain should just cost you the price of a chain. The shop should install it for free or like $5, or you can do it yourself with a $7 chain tool.
If you replace a really worn out chain you might have trouble if the cassette or the chainrings are really worn out too. Since now the non-stretched chain won't fit so well. Then you'll have to replace the cassette (or individual cogs if only one or two are problematic and you have an expensive cassette), and/or replace a chainring (if it's just one chainring that is worn out), or replace the crankset (probably cheaper than replacing all 3 chainrings).
If you replace a really worn out chain you might have trouble if the cassette or the chainrings are really worn out too. Since now the non-stretched chain won't fit so well. Then you'll have to replace the cassette (or individual cogs if only one or two are problematic and you have an expensive cassette), and/or replace a chainring (if it's just one chainring that is worn out), or replace the crankset (probably cheaper than replacing all 3 chainrings).
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks so much for your helpful replies, guys! I now have the knowledge to know when my LBS is screwing me (and they do that in NYC), but lack the skills to do anything about it save go to another shop (my class was VERY basic).
Thanks again!
Thanks again!