MA40 Rebuild - Spoke Type?
First, a little background my wheels: Last winter, the original front rim on my Centurion roadie gave way (old corroded spoke nipple led to sort of a blowout; now there's a gash where the spoke hole used to be). The bike's rear rim is a Mavic MA40. These Mavics are now rare - so I was really glad to find another locally for a matching set. However, this 'new' one was built up as a rear. I couldn't use my old front hub either (it had 32h and the Mavic I found has 36h). I ordered the correct 36h Shimano front hub from Ebay and it's due to arrive shortly.
On to my question: Now that I've got the right parts for a rebuild, what kind of spokes should I use? I'm thinking Wheelsmith Aero ... but would these work for a build using 700c Mavic MA40 36h + Shimano 600 36h hub (model HB-6207)? If that's a bad idea (or the bike store is out of the Wheelsmith Aero), any other spoke suggestions? |
I would build it up with 15-16 guage double butted spokes. With 36 spokes you are going to have a long lasting wheel.
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bladed spokes need a slot cut in each spoke hole to get the blade thru.
yea just get 14/15/14 DB spokes.. if you are a featherweight, 15/16/15, or be clever DB14 on right, DB15 on left. Sapim, DT, WS, etc , all good. |
Originally Posted by dubesor
(Post 11456885)
If that's a bad idea (or the bike store is out of the Wheelsmith Aero), any other spoke suggestions?
FWIW: I have a Shimano 600 HB-6207 36-hole front hub in my bin o' parts. If what you get isn't what you wanted (it is Ebay, after all), PM or email me. |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 11458403)
bladed spokes need a slot cut in each spoke hole to get the blade thru.
yea just get 14/15/14 DB spokes.. if you are a featherweight, 15/16/15, or be clever DB14 on right, DB15 on left. Sapim, DT, WS, etc , all good. |
Originally Posted by dubesor
(Post 11496397)
i'm not a super featherweight or anything ... 165 lbs or so. would that still work with 15/16/15 or a bad idea?
Bladed spokes are a waste and too heavy on a 36 spoke wheel. |
the most tension is the Right rear spokes a scosh heaver on that side of the wheel bit stronger on the hook, given thats where some spokes go
I've got a 25 year old wheel with 36 straight gage , 3 X , 15's. so could do fine I admit its sporty, E2 [non CD version of same rim] I don't haul cargo on that bike. ... You know, Your MMV . of course if you want to try to build rather different wheels , as 36 count. 36 also lets there be groups of 3 spokes. ...How about Crows foot.. ;) group= 1 radial spoke and 2x2 cross. perhaps.. :beer: what the heck .. |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 11497002)
the most tension is the Right rear spokes a scosh heaver on that side of the wheel bit stronger on the hook, given thats where some spokes go
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Light duty go fast sort of feel, the 15Ga plain ga has been fine .. Built them 20 years ago ... :50:
36 radial spokes, perhaps, ? since first wish was bladed spoke , radial will give that kind of image.. |
The local mechanic will build up a straight 14 gauge wheel, probably using DT spokes. They weren't sure what/how to build a 14-15-14 wheel. I wish I had the time and tools to build my own wheel, perhaps I'll do next time around.
Anyway, I hope the 14-gauge spokes will make for a solid wheel that's not too heavy. I'll end up with a weird combo of 36h front / 32h rear, but at least I could use the parts I had available and my Centurion will be back on the road, with matching rims for once. |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 11497173)
Light duty go fast sort of feel, the 15Ga plain ga has been fine .. Built them 20 years ago ... :50:
36 radial spokes, perhaps, ? since first wish was bladed spoke , radial will give that kind of image.. I'll never build another 36-spoke radial wheel again. There's not enough material to hold the flange together. I was truing and tensioning the wheel one evening and the flange exploded, sending shrapnel through the air and my hair. |
My little Brompton Wheels are seemingly fine with radial spokes on their front ,
Budget Shimano hubs may not be up for this type pattern, and this anecdotal problem.. others are Ok with it. Seems like Cross racers like them . no spoke crossing to collect grasses in them .. lots of them on Shimano Hubs. maybe 32 or 28 is different as holes drilled in flange is not as frequent.. |
Originally Posted by dubesor
(Post 11497825)
The local mechanic will build up a straight 14 gauge wheel, probably using DT spokes. They weren't sure what/how to build a 14-15-14 wheel. I wish I had the time and tools to build my own wheel, perhaps I'll do next time around.
Anyway, I hope the 14-gauge spokes will make for a solid wheel that's not too heavy. I'll end up with a weird combo of 36h front / 32h rear, but at least I could use the parts I had available and my Centurion will be back on the road, with matching rims for once. Built a wheel a while back like that, 15/16 (almost) radial on a 600 hub. Held up fine, but I'm only 65kg. |
Originally Posted by Al1943
(Post 11496879)
Go with 14-15-14 gauge (2.0-1.8-2.0 mm) or straight 14 gauge if you want to save money. A 2 mm spoke (14 gauge) at the hub will have more strength where needed, more dependability, less chance of stretching.
Bladed spokes are a waste and too heavy on a 36 spoke wheel. =8-) |
Originally Posted by dubesor
(Post 11496397)
i'm not a super featherweight or anything ... 165 lbs or so. would that still work with 15/16/15 or a bad idea?
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