Silly question about a Campy BB spindle
 

In the attempt to get a perfect fixed-gear CL, I found that switching around the spindle and using the shorter side for the drive side gives me an almost perfect CL. Is this a stupid thing to do? Or has it been done before? The reason being is that I have a stuck on DS BB cup. Its a Campy 68-BB and its on fairly good shape. I was just wondering what you think? I have a sealed SS Origin 8 BB. The new frame is a Raleigh Comp 80's 10-12 speed. I plan on using the Sealed BB if I can get the BB Cup off.
Is there a demand for "used" Campy BB's?

Also anyone have pictures of what a cup n cone BB looks like when it need to be replaced? The bearing races only have about 2-3 tiny pits on each side. The bearings are in good shape.
Thanks for your help.

The only thing wrong with what you're doing is that it puts your left crank out farther than it needs to be. But good chainline trumps that, so go for it.

You might find a track spindle which is symmetrical but be careful, since the early 1970s road cups had a thicker outer wall and the bearings were moved inboard but this wasn't done with track, so a track spindle won't work with post 1970 (or so) road cups.

Ideally the races, both spindle and cups, shouldn't have any pitting, and the ball track should be a narrow gray line, but use what you have as long as it works acceptable for you. At some point you'll need to replace the BB, but with luck that might be never.

BTW- just for the record, the bearing is the entire assembly that allows movement, the inner and outer race, and the balls that roll in them. The balls themselves are just that balls.

Thanks for the clarification! So would an old school Campy BB last longer than a newer cheaper sealed BB? That is with proper adjustment and overhauls on the former.

That's like asking which tastes better apples or oranges. All things being equal, it's a toss up.

I prefer classic cup and cone designs, since they're more user serviceable, and with a bit of maintenance can last nearly forever. The flip side is that Cartridge bearing designs aren't as user serviceable, bit don't need as much either, and on most bearing when the time comes replacement is easy and reasonably priced.

You pay's you money and you takes your chances. In your case a compelling argument can be made, that a bearing in the hand is worth two in the bush.

You can Get Phil Wood BB in a large variety of lengths and tapers, and do it right.

You're in Portland? , got a hundred bike shops to go to.

I sure do have shops here but Phil and my wallet aren't friends! LOL

ask for a raise !

Personally, I'm a fan of SKF roller-bearing bottom brackets. Just $109 will get you a square-taper BB with symmetric spindle anywhere from 107-126mm. It will be the very last BB you'll ever need to buy.

http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/i...FBAS-600LR.jpg

Nice!!

Loose ball Campag BBs which have no damage to the races ,
no pits and chips in the bearing track, just a polished wearing in,
Have value to those wanting to do a period restoration with original parts.

Pitted axles are just a piece of steel, to go to the recycle bin, they are done.

I'ts less than ethical to sell a pitted axle as good.

Shimano's Square taper cartridge bearing assemblies are cheap. $20.. work just fine

a bike shop should be able to supply a replacement,
seeing your bike will help, the setup included the width of the frame stays ..

lasting longer includes owner maintainence , the pits in the races indicates
the maintainer was not at the top of their game.

Get the miche one, thats cheap enough and good enoug and it is ISO. then u have token that is excellent also, the best about the token is that the seals last forever, I have one for at least 5 years and it is still new. If you need JIS the shimano sealed ones are good are cheap and work fine, I believe the shorter one u can get is like 107 that is ok for what u need i guess.

The sealed campangolo road BB is better than the old ones, people loves the lose bearings but something is true, they do not last that long as the sealed ones, maintanance is another issue, if oyu are one of those people that service the bike once each 5 years a campangolo lose bearings BB is not for you, after the 1 year it will be all pitted if you do not service that thing often. The new sealed ones are pretty good.

I dont know if anybody mentioned this but if you want to move the chain line a little bit w/o changing the BB, always u can put a BB spacer between the cog and the hub, that will mode the cog like 2 mms to the outside and sometimes thats all is needed, not respacing no nothing just put it in.

I had not though about putting a spacer on the rear hub! Good Idea

BTW, I've had a Campy Record square-taper BB that's been working great for the past 20-years. It has spiral-grooves in the hole of the cups where the spindle goes through to expel dirt and grit. Only have to service it every 2-years or so. Still on original ball-bearings too. :)

This looks like a great design but for Campy it only seems to come in 111mm spindles. This rules out using Record and Chorus cranks.

-j

Well i used them back in the day and the shimano dura ace lose balls are better in my opinion. Racing wise campagnolo it is ok but darn, after racing under the rain those spiral thingies work but not as well as the shimano design, i have a shimano one that is maybe 25 years old, beat the crap out of it for at least 6 years or more, races still shine. Love campagnolo and im a campagnolo person but BBs arent one of the things i like from them from the old groups, then omas came with sealed bearing then everybody came on board to the seales bearing thechnology. I have no idea if somebody else came with sealed bearings before omas, maybe mavic?, Remember EDCO had them too.

From 102 to 111 are 9 mms, 4.5 mms per side. Yes too wide for campy but token makes a unit that is awesomely good and comes in 102

I have heard good things about Token as well.

I checked the PDF brochure on the SKF website and they state they make a bb that will work with every model of campy cranks. The smallest size spindle they have listed for ISO is 107mm...still not correct for Chorus and Record.

-j

And do you have any pitting whatsoever? Thats awesome