knee savers
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knee savers
has anyone had experience with knee savers? I am a big guy, with a big frame... wide hips. my feet natualy angle in just a tiny bit, and this causes my heel to brush against the crank arm on both my left and right foot. My lbs guy says there is a product out there, called knee savers that you put between the pedals and the crank arm. they are like 3/4 of an inch thick, so this makes the pedal about 3/4 of an inch further away from the crank arm. sounds good, but has anyone used these? wouldn't it put more stress on the crank arms???? Anything you know on this subject would be VERY useful. (I use shimano 540 clipless pedals) not really much room to adjust my clete at all on my shoe.
thanks in advance,
thanks in advance,
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Yes! Go to Google and search on "Bicycle Knee Savers". The word bicycle is very important there or you will get all kind of sport knee protectors. Here is one URL from the whole lot:
https://www.bikescor.com/product/knee.htm
https://www.bikescor.com/product/knee.htm
#3
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thanks for the link robert. so has anybody ever actually used these things?
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ok, well now i don't know what to do. they can't be that good of a product if nobody uses them!!!! is anybody holding out on me?
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I'd try other forums. maybe the training/nutrition one or one with more readers; i.e. roadies or mtn bikes.
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Yup,
I have used Knee Savers. They are currently in my toolbox.
They push your foot way out there. Most people don't need that much. I didn't. The Look CX6 pedal can give you a few mm of adjustment;
which might do the trick for you.( https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5245 ) Problem is, I know of no way to measure for ideal Q. I also don't know of anyone who is knowledgeable on the subject. I bet the Look is +/- 5 MM. Which isn't much. Btw, you could ask your LBS to put a spacer on the pedal to move it out a little.
I have used Knee Savers. They are currently in my toolbox.
They push your foot way out there. Most people don't need that much. I didn't. The Look CX6 pedal can give you a few mm of adjustment;
which might do the trick for you.( https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5245 ) Problem is, I know of no way to measure for ideal Q. I also don't know of anyone who is knowledgeable on the subject. I bet the Look is +/- 5 MM. Which isn't much. Btw, you could ask your LBS to put a spacer on the pedal to move it out a little.
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I am curious, do you want to spread your feet out to save your crank arm or to save your knees? Like an earlier poster My shoes rub my cranks, but only on my mountain bike (with my MTB shoes), I am not quite sure why.
You might try asking Sheldon Brown about your problem.
Here is an excerpt from his page about Tread or Q-factor, with somewhat of an explanation about how to estimate the natural Q for you.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_t.html
Tread
1. The contoured surface of a tire, used to improve traction in loose or rough surfaces. Knobby or grooved tread designs have no real value for use on paved surfaces, and extreme tread patterns increase drag, noise and reduce cornering traction due to squirm. Despite appearances, slick tires perform best on hard surfaces.
2. The lateral distance between the pedal attachment points on a crankset. For most cyclists, the narrower the tread the better. When we walk, our footprints fall almost in a straight line under the center-of-gravity of our bodies. When we cycle, the "tread" forces our feet to be exerting their force farther apart than they are designed to do. Some theorists blame this for knee and hip problems experienced by some cyclists, but the jury is still out on this.
A wider "tread" also creates a greater sideways force when pedaling out of the saddle, so the rider must exert more upper-body strength when riding "en danceuse".
A wider "tread" decreases pedal-ground clearance when the bicycle is banked over into a tight turn.
("Tread" in this sense is sometimes referred to as "Q-factor.")
You might try asking Sheldon Brown about your problem.
Here is an excerpt from his page about Tread or Q-factor, with somewhat of an explanation about how to estimate the natural Q for you.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_t.html
Tread
1. The contoured surface of a tire, used to improve traction in loose or rough surfaces. Knobby or grooved tread designs have no real value for use on paved surfaces, and extreme tread patterns increase drag, noise and reduce cornering traction due to squirm. Despite appearances, slick tires perform best on hard surfaces.
2. The lateral distance between the pedal attachment points on a crankset. For most cyclists, the narrower the tread the better. When we walk, our footprints fall almost in a straight line under the center-of-gravity of our bodies. When we cycle, the "tread" forces our feet to be exerting their force farther apart than they are designed to do. Some theorists blame this for knee and hip problems experienced by some cyclists, but the jury is still out on this.
A wider "tread" also creates a greater sideways force when pedaling out of the saddle, so the rider must exert more upper-body strength when riding "en danceuse".
A wider "tread" decreases pedal-ground clearance when the bicycle is banked over into a tight turn.
("Tread" in this sense is sometimes referred to as "Q-factor.")