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Brakes and racks

Old 11-03-10, 08:52 PM
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Brakes and racks

(I decided to start another thread, I hope no one minds >__> )

So I was able to get the rack and fenders on my bike, but now the rear brake is rubbing on the rack's arm thingies. The bike is a '95 Kona Hahanna.



What do I do? D:
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Old 11-03-10, 10:15 PM
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Twist and bend the rack stays until you clear. 2 adjustble wrenches works good for twist.
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Old 11-03-10, 10:27 PM
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It's not going to break is it? I'm a little afraid of it snapping. D:
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Old 11-03-10, 10:44 PM
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It won't break if you only bent it a few times. If you bend it a lot of times over and over again, then you gots da problems. It's like a paper clip, you can bend it maybe one of two times, but once you continue bending it, it will snap.

Last edited by 531phile; 11-03-10 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 11-04-10, 07:51 AM
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There'd be less rubbing if you just swapped the sides that the arms are on.

Look at the shapes & angles of the things involved with the problem.

\ / - rack arms
/\ - brake

or

/ \ - rack arms
/\ - brake

Would /\ be able to move further upwards into / \ or \ / ?

Last edited by cobba; 11-05-10 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 11-04-10, 07:55 AM
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Lower the straddle cable. Since you aren't using a link wire, you have more adjustment. You only need to move the hanger down enough that it clears the rack stays when the brakes are engaged.
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Old 11-04-10, 09:39 AM
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This is a pain in the butt to sort out. Lower and shorten the the straddle as above but this may affect the braking. Also add a few mm of spacer (thick washer) to spread the rack stays. These bolts dont carry a lot of weight.
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Old 11-04-10, 11:20 AM
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The flat stays that come with racks are from alloy that is soft like noodle. Don't worry about bending them to suit your needs as they will take a lot more repeated bends than most common steel alloys before you need to worry about fatigue cracking. However it's nice if you can bend them more with hand power or some whacks from a soft blow mallet. Using a few blocks 1x4 or other building wood clamped to them as a "soft vise" so the bends are made with a bit of a radius will also help avoid the last little bit of risk of stress cracking. But more importantly using wood blocks and soft blow mallets will avoid damaging the plating on the metal and creating a spot for rust to start.

The two adjustable wrenches works but you risk damaging the plating and having rust form at the spots it was scratched by the edges of the jaws. If you want to use adjustable wrenches it's worth padding the jaws with two or three layers of duct tape before starting.
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Old 11-04-10, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Lower the straddle cable. Since you aren't using a link wire, you have more adjustment. You only need to move the hanger down enough that it clears the rack stays when the brakes are engaged.
How do you do this? I tried to find some instructions online but I didn't find anything. D:
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Old 11-04-10, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ember
How do you do this? I tried to find some instructions online but I didn't find anything. D:
You loosen the nut on the cable yoke (the bit that's hitting the rack stays) and slide it down the cable a little further. You'll have to adjust the cable on the brake arms to take up the slack. Park tools has some instructions that will help.
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Old 11-04-10, 02:40 PM
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I set the cable yoke as low as possible, so the straddle cable sits almost on my fenders with the brake released. This seems to give the best brake performance, and will solve the interference problem you have.
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Old 11-04-10, 04:14 PM
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Welp, I lowered the yoke and tried to readjust the brake cable, but the rear wheel is out of true and rubs the brake pads. Off to the bike shop I guess~
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Old 11-04-10, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cobba
There'd be less rubbing if you just swapped the sides that the arms are on.
+1
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