jethro56 

So I'm a newbie with 300 miles under my belt since Sep. 30. I plan on working up to 150 miles a week mostly on a trainer until spring. Got my new bike somewhat fitted.Bought Zinn's maintence book ect.

My Question Should I buy a tool kit or just buy tools as I need them? None of my friends are into bicycling so borrowing is out, however loaning won't be a problem either. I got some time as my bike is new and understand preventive maintence.

HillRider

The "kits" will usually contain tools specific to components you don't have so they will be an inefficient purchase unless you work on a wide variety of bikes.

Buy what you need as you need it. There are some absolutely bike-specific tools such as lockring tools, crank pullers, chain breakers, etc. but many regular hand tools are also needed such as hex wrenches, combination wrenches, etc. and these are available in any good hardware store.

jethro56 

Thank you for your reply. I'm a farmer and I have baling wire and big hammers so I'm covered for the basics. I guess somtime I need to look for a chain wear guage and a spoke wrench. Do you think a small torque wrench is necessary? I have a 1/2" drive one for bigger stuff.

ArthurIhde

where do you buy it

rogerstg

No need for a chain wear gauge when a steel rule will do, but IMO a small torque wrench is a must unless you are accustomed to working with soft aluminum parts.

I've always bought special purpose bike tools as needed.

jimc101

For most bike adjustments, a 4/5/6 mm allen key and screwdrivers (phillips & flat head) will do for modern bikes.

You can buy some nice tool kits from Park and others, but you may find you get may tools you never need or use, so it can be better to buy as needed some good additional basic tools are

Chain breaker
Cassette lock ring tool / chain whip
Bottom Bracket tools (for the type you have)
spoke wrench for the size you have
Torx wrench if using disc brakes
Pedal spanner if you change pedals often
high quality cable cutter

headset spanners / cone spanners are also useful if you bike has an older headset / cup and cone hubs

bikeman715

just buy what you need and when you need them.

fietsbob

I find a 4th hand is a darn handy thing . squeeze of the handle
combines grabbing the cable and pulling it against a cable clamping bolt
on the part, brake or derailleur.
leaving the other hand free for tightening the bolt.

FBinNY 

Add me to those saying buy tools only as they become necessary. Since components change, tools you buy today may become obsolete before you get a chance to use them. Also divide tools into those that are necessary such as chain tools and freewheel or cassette removers, and those that help but aren't necessary like 3rd and 4th hand (be nice to your wife & you won't need these) chain gauges and the like.

Over time you'll accumulate a tool kit suited to both your bike and your skill set without wasting any dough better spent on beer.

reptilezs

too slow for me when working on v brakes. i only use them when working on bmx u brakes, and cantis. dont use it on rear derailleurs and only some times on front derailleurs. there will be days before i pull out my 4th hand tool.

operator

The only time i ever use them now is on extremely high spring return force cantilevers. You should be able to pull on the end cap of excess inner wire to set it in the anchor very close to where only a barrel adjuster <2 turns will get it up to proper tension.

jethro56 

Thank you all for the advice. I'll buy as needed but look for a inexpensive small torque wrench.

fietsbob

have no V brakes , my Favorite rim brake has become the Magura Hydrostop ..
it goes on in place of a V brake.


on my cross bike's cantilever brakes I have not bothered with fine tuning adjusters,
to adjust the brakes I just grab the 4th hand tool and do it.

There are some specialty 1/4" drive torque wrenches for the high tech bike trade ,
as a lot of the new Carbon fiber stuff has a narrow torque spec range.

junkyardking

Depending on how old your bike is, how much water is has seen, and how long certain parts have gone without a closer look, I'd say that a rubber mallet is also a must. Nothing is more frustrating than going to overhaul a head set just to find that you can't even get the stem loose due to rust, or trying to remove your BB cups and they just wont budge. A rubber mallet (combined with great caution and precision, and maybe a shop rag or wooden block) will totally help free those parts that may be in desperate need of an overhaul.
Also, I'm not sure how loose we're going to get here with the definition of "tool" but I'd say that the thing in my home shop that gets the most use is my Park Poly Lube. No workshop should be without.